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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

The other day my clutch cable failed on my '96 900s and I got stranded on my way home from work. After getting towed home, I started reading all the clutch cable threads and decided to go with the LUK autozone recommendation. However, no local ones stocked it and in the effort of saving time, I found an alternate by Beck/Arnley part #093-0652. It had a manual adjustment and looked identical to the Luk.

I pulled out the old cable which was frayed and the plastics were breaking in various areas, but it definately wasn't snapped. I figured it was stretched.

Now to the challenge...I put in the new one which was relatively easy. I routed it the same way as the original (with the exception of bypassing the aluminum brace the connects near the wheel well as suggested in some other threads). So I got in the car to feel the clutch and I begin to get resistance followed by a pop. Without the use of the brace, the cable doesn't have anything to keep it in place and just seems to move.

So, I decide to get out a cro-bar and pull the arm back to give me enough of slack in the overall cable to allow me to hook the rubber bushion into the brace. Now the cable is secure/stationary and I go test the clutch and I am back in business. You could see that the bushion had a lost of pressure on it at the curve because the bottom half ripped. In any case I went crusing around the neighborhood and the clutch felt good (slightly high) but it shifted smooth.

I button everything back up and decide I am going to wash her up. I go to move it and the clutch starts fading and bingo I am back to square one. I pop open the hood and see that the cable slipped beyond the busion and now the tensioner is in the brace to the wheel well so it didn't hold.

So ultimately, here is my question...new cable is in and hooked up, but I just can't figure out how the cable (not being in that brace) would remain in place with the proper tension. The adjusment doesn't seem like it would be enough so i am thinking I am missing something here. It is either I have the wrong cable or I am missing some easy step or some major step.

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. I was hoping to button it up today and get her back on the road.
 

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1995 NG900 2.3L
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Did you adjust the cable for free play? I'm not certain but it might be at or near 1" at the pedal.

Also, there is a brace on the top of the transmission very close to the clutch arm. Make sure the cable is well seated inside that brace. As for the cable brace at the wheel well or under the fuse box; the manual adjusting knob (the threaded section) will no longer fit there as the OEM cable does so that's the reason it is bypassed. Trying to force fit it in there destroys the cable reportedly, more or less, as it introduces a kink in the cable.

EDIT: What you are noticing as far as "cable breakage" is nothing short of the plastic outer sheath parts breaking that allow too much free play in the cable. My cable also did not break in the traditional sense, just a plastic bushing near the clutch arm which made the cable go slack. Next time or for future reference to any and all readers, I would suggest forcing the car into gear (it will be difficult but not impossible) and drive it home until you can source a new cable. That's what I did right before having the tow truck hook her up. Worked like a charm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Interesting. I do not see a brace near the transmission. I am wondering if that is my problem to begin with. Maybe it broke off. I took the battery out and was all over that area and did not see anything. Does anyone have a pic for reference?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nevermind, i figured it out and I figured out how the old cable failed. I'm back on the road.
 
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