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Discussion Starter #1
I replaced the front crankshaft seal. I followed the procedure on the Townsend imports website. I was meticulous with ensuring that the I reassembled the oil pump gears in the correct position and the oil pump housing seal was secure before reassembling. To ensure the pump was primed, I packed the gears with Vaseline to ensure proper pump operation. I re-attached the crankshaft position sensor. I reinstalled the crankshaft pulley, filled the engine with oil, and started the car for a brief moment to ensure no leaks before reassembling the belts, A/C compressor, etc.

Two problems surfaced after starting the car:

1. The shift indicator light continuously flashes and the engine runs very rough with no power. I press the gas pedal to keep the car running. I tried to be very careful with the crankshaft position sensor to keep it out of harm's way but is there a possibility a wire cracked or a connection came loose? This is the first time it has been removed since the car was built. I noticed wiring of the crankshaft position sensor runs to a connector by the flywheel cover that I had to be somewhat aggressive in moving to lock the engine. Is there a way to test if I damaged it during removal/reinstallation.

2. The oil pressure light turned off after the car started. However, I noticed oil is leaking from the threads of the black timing chain tensioner that is located at the top of the timing chain cover and the lifters are beginning to make noise. I turned off the engine in case the passages became plugged with the Vaseline. How can I diagnose/repair this without risking damage to the engine?

Thank you in advance for your help.
 

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I would disconnect and reconnect that 3 pin connector by the flywheel and make sure the contacts are clean. Sometimes after disconnecting the battery on my later model C900s the engine will have a check engine light until it's driven for a minute or so. Try running the engine for a couple of minutes.

Don't worry about the shift up light. I remove that dash bulb on all of my cars. It doesn't mean anything to me.

You can get a new seal ring and o-ring for the chain tensioner. I bet it was leaking before. I've repacked oil pump gears with vaseline a dozen times without problems. I change the oil when the engine warms up.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I would disconnect and reconnect that 3 pin connector by the flywheel and make sure the contacts are clean. Sometimes after disconnecting the battery on my later model C900s the engine will have a check engine light until it's driven for a minute or so. Try running the engine for a couple of minutes.

Don't worry about the shift up light. I remove that dash bulb on all of my cars. It doesn't mean anything to me.

You can get a new seal ring and o-ring for the chain tensioner. I bet it was leaking before. I've repacked oil pump gears with vaseline a dozen times without problems. I change the oil when the engine warms up.
After doing some more research, this may have been the culprit of my oil leak and not the crankshaft seal....lol. Oh well, it's done now. One thing I did not do is fill the cavity with oil. Is this mandatory? I was under the impression the Vaseline eliminated the need to do this.

I went ahead and ordered a new seal ring and o-ring. Is there a link to the procedure on how to do this properly?

The shift up indicator is flashing. I did remove that plug you referenced and there was no corrosion. I did remove the plug to the distributor and reinstalled.
 

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One thing I did not do is fill the cavity with oil. Is this mandatory? I was under the impression the Vaseline eliminated the need to do this.
Yeah, packing the oil pump with vaseline allows you to skip filling the cavity with oil.

Here's instructions that were on the old version of the saabcentral website, in the how-to section:
As you can see from the picture on the right you need to measure from the end of the T/body to the inside of the lip on the pushrod. Under no circumstances should this measurement exceed 11mm. If it does you need to replace the timing chain

To refit the tensioner the first thing to do is reset the pushrod by pushing down on the ratchet and at the same time pushing the pushrod back into the Tensioner body (picture right). Then fit a new seal before refitting the Tensioner body, This should be torqued to 63Nm (47 ft. lb.) Place the plastic insert and spring in the hole in the Tensioner body and after refitting the O-ring refit the 12mm centre bolt. This should be torqued to 22Nm (16 ft. lb.). As the plug is being tightened the spring pushes the pushrod and re-tensions the timing chain.
269036
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here's an update. I restarted the vehicle without any belts and brought it up to about 2000 rpm for about 10 seconds. Lifter noise was gone, no oil pressure light, so oil pump appears primed and working as it should.

Check Engine is illuminated and the shift indicator light continues to flash. Engine stalls when I take the foot off the gas pedal.

1. Since the car starts and runs, does this verify the crankshaft position sensor is working? I want to verify before I start reinstalling the belts.
2. What does the flashing shift indicator light indicate?
 

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I am personally not aware of any meaning of a flashing shift up light. I have never heard of that before, nor can I even think of what it might mean. Are you certain you properly reconnected any wiring/grounds you may have disturbed?
 

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Ah, I didn't realize that in later cars they moved that function but it makes sense. Earlier cars slow-flashed the CEL for an EZK problem, but back then the Shift Up light was it's own system. Moving EZL MIL to the Shift Up light makes sense.
 

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Ah, I didn't realize that in later cars they moved that function but it makes sense. Earlier cars slow-flashed the CEL for an EZK problem, but back then the Shift Up light was it's own system. Moving EZL MIL to the Shift Up light makes sense.
Thank you everyone for your input. Hoping this isn't too big of a problem to fix.

I've reassembled the pulley and started putting belts back on this evening so the sensor is not accessible anymore. I saw a procedure on the Townsend website for testing the sensor.using a multimeter and timing light. Is there a way to test the sensor without taking everything apart again? If it is damaged, is it repairable or replaceable?
 

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The only real way to test a Hall sensor is an oscilloscope.... You are looking for a waveform. There are some touchstone tests that can be run with a multimeter... All you need access to is the 3 pin plug on the side of the block.

If you get stuck, you can always convert to a distributor mounted Hall sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
SOLVED!

I disconnected the negative on the battery, reconnected the alternator connections, unplugged and reconnected the MAF. Reconnected the battery. I started up the car and she purrs like a kitten! No CEL and no flashing shift up indicator.

I've got all the belts installed and tightened except for the A/C compressor. Waiting in the mail for the new gasket and o-ring for the chain tensioner which was the culprit of the oil leak all along. I just couldn't see it buried underneath the compressor.

Lesson learned - find the source of the oil leak and don't assume. Would have saved me a lot of work.

The work would have need to have been done eventually so now the car has a new crankshaft seal, oil pump cover seal, and new belts. The original water pump still in good condition with no leaks.

Thank You for all for your assistance!
 
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