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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings. "No start" of my 2001 9-3 has me trying the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) bypass described in this thread:
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1738141&postcount=61

But I am stuck in on the step that calls for removal of the starter relay. I've located it, but I'm unsure of how to remove the sucker.

I suspect "removing" the starter relay means removing just the specific black module with the pertinent wires from the beige housing.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/optigrab/8003265118/

I also suspect the long narrow black tabs in this photo are locking the starter relay in the beige housing, so I need to manipulate them somehow.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/optigrab/8003241997/

So here I am, I've wiggled them in various directions, but I'm not sure if I should tug on them of the wires or whatever.

Any suggestions? Many thanks.


 

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So, we have a 2001 Saab,which may have changed from my '96 and the ones covered in the old Haynes ('94 thru '98)...
I believe we are looking at the relay cluster undersides....the actual units are plug ins from the top side....I think..
Several screws or clips and the relay cluster can be accessed..
And theses relays are quite good and durable, TTBOMK....
Have you tried to bypass everything and run current directly to the solenoid ?
But two tests may be necessary ....one cold....one hot.....
Mine would pass the "cold test".
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. I managed to get access to the other side with the removal of one more screw. BTW, the bypass did not work.
 

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Describe your problem in more detail. Does it crank? have you checked your battery voltage? Is it occasional or are you in a persistant "no start" state?

BTW, a good way to diagnose the NSS prior to doing the bypass is to pour water on it. It usually fails only when hot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No start, NSS bypass failed or flubbed

Describe your problem in more detail. Does it crank? have you checked your battery voltage? Is it occasional or are you in a persistant "no start" state?
No, it does not crank. The babysitter borrowed the car, and at end of day she told me that it had failed to start in a parking lot. She found someone to give a jump start. Hearing this, but not knowing any other details, I charged the battery with my trickle charger. The car started fine for another couple of days, then failed to start again. This time I was able to experience the problem myself. No cranking, just a click. No error codes or lights.

Even though I didn't suspect the battery, I put it back on the trickle charger and let it sit until the charger indicated "all green". The battery's 4 or 5 years old now, but it definitely has enough charge to crank. So it's not the battery.

My only deviation from the bypass instructions was (1) I used a smaller gauge 22ga pure copper wire, and (2) I did not try to start the car while in Drive. I simply tried it in park as normal.

BTW, a good way to diagnose the NSS prior to doing the bypass is to pour water on it. It usually fails only when hot.
The car's been cold for a couple of days, and there's been no change. How do you poor water on the NSS if it's so thoroughly buried under the battery and battery rack? Seems If I took the trouble to get access to it, I'd be able to do something a little more elaborate than simply pour water on it.

Many thanks.
 

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If you pour the water behind the battery, it will get to the NSS (at leat enough to cool it off). But, you obviously have a different problem. Do your lights and radio work? If so, I would start by checking the relevent fuses and relays. Something is keeping your starter from engaging. If you do not have lights (or they are dim), then either your battery is not holding sufficient charge, or you have a wiring issue.

Have you checked the battery voltage with a multimeter?

Also, the ignition switch is another possible culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks again. Lights and radio work. Also changed the starter relay fuse (Fuse 36), even though the old fuse looks to be intact.

I haven't checked the battery voltage directly, but again, I'm pretty certain it's not the battery.

The old girl just left for the gas station/garage on a flatbed. For what it's worth, the flatbed driver tried it and said it sounded like the starter.

Does that sound like a reasonable guess? I note you (Nova) didn't mention the starter, and am wondering if you feel it's unlikely.

The car's first eight years were spent as weekend (highway) car when I lived in a city apartment. Now it's just a errand runner (starts and stops) around the suburbs, so it's got just under 50k miles.
 

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The starter is a possibility. It's easily checked by applying 12V directly to the terminals. I'm sure the shop will do that.
 

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Turn the headlights in and try to start the car. If the headlights go dim, you either have a failing battery or a bad battery connection to either (or both) the positive and negative terminals.

On average, I'm lucky to get 36 months on a new battery. If you get 4 to 5 years on a new battery, consider yourself lucky.

BTW, what does a stater that doesn't turn the engine over sound like? Just silence in my book... Ron
 

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starter symptoms

If you hear a click when you attempt to engage the stater, the solenoid on the starter is receiving power. Your starter is receiving power. If you don't hear any cranking, most likely, the contacts for the starter motor are worn. The motor won't turn which means the bendix gear doesn't engage the fly wheel ring gear.
This problem can be sporadic at first. Striking the starter housing with a hammer may move the internal components of the starter enough to align with a set of good contacts. If this is the case you will be able to start the vehicle. A nice temporary save, if you are so lucky. Drive to your repair location and replace the starter.
 
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