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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,

It's time for a transmission fluid change (automatic 5sp)...I wonder how much qts does our car uses? and if I am doing the drain and fill methods, how many qts do I need?

I apologize if this subject has been covered many times, I tried to search the forum but mostly it's for the 03-06 or the 6sp auto ... so I am not sure if they are the same.

I wonder if these would work:

Toyota ATF type T-IV
Castrol Transmax ATF+4
Mobil 3309

Thx Saaber
 

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I think the 5 speed auto is the same in regards to capacity and fluid type regardless of year. I'd be surprised if it changed.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think the 5 speed auto is the same in regards to capacity and fluid type regardless of year. I'd be surprised if it changed.
Which is 4qts? I would think so, I just can't find in this forum that specify the capacity.
 

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If you are just pulling the drain plug and refilling, 3.8 qts. I like the Valvoline ATF. Just under $17 4 qt jug at wally world.
 

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If you are just pulling the drain plug and refilling, 3.8 qts. I like the Valvoline ATF. Just under $17 4 qt jug at wally world.
Ooh so drain and fill ..3.8 qts? If flush 7qts? I'll check iut those Valvoline. ..I already hsd my attention to Castrol transmax...any comments on this...seems pretty good.
 

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Ooh so drain and fill ..3.8 qts? If flush 7qts? I'll check iut those Valvoline. ..I already hsd my attention to Castrol transmax...any comments on this...seems pretty good.
I'd recommend against products that are for multiple transmission types.

You can get a 12 pack of Mobil 3309 on Amazon for like $60-$70 and you would have enough for a few fluid changes. If your book says 3309, just stay with that product.
 

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;ol; on the mobil ATF 3309.

Measure what come comes out. Preferably by weight. If by volume, best to make sure the new fluid and engine are at ambient temperature.


Volume does not equal mass.
:nono;
 

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Yeah flush will take more than 7 qts as its hard to stop a 7. & I think total fill is 7.9. Any way the auto trans is essentually a Toyota unit. Dip stick says Toyota Type iV ATF. Mobile 3309 is the only oher Atf that is "cef tified". The fact is that unit takes same friction Atf as Dextron III. TOYOTA T-IV is for all intensive purposes the same thing. The Valvloine works great I. My 9-3 and my wifes RX 330. I really don't think valvoline would state its compatible on the bottle if it was not. Anyway I do the simple 3.8t drain n fill on my 9-3 and 4.0 qt RX330 each spring so I don't have to do a flush every 60k. That is a PIA. If u want to get really picky then stop at a yoda dealer to get the Toyota Type IV ATF.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
;ol; on the mobil ATF 3309.

Measure what come comes out. Preferably by weight. If by volume, best to make sure the new fluid and engine are at ambient temperature.


Volume does not equal mass.
:nono;
Yeah flush will take more than 7 qts as its hard to stop a 7. & I think total fill is 7.9. Any way the auto trans is essentually a Toyota unit. Dip stick says Toyota Type iV ATF. Mobile 3309 is the only oher Atf that is "cef tified". The fact is that unit takes same friction Atf as Dextron III. TOYOTA T-IV is for all intensive purposes the same thing. The Valvloine works great I. My 9-3 and my wifes RX 330. I really don't think valvoline would state its compatible on the bottle if it was not. Anyway I do the simple 3.8t drain n fill on my 9-3 and 4.0 qt RX330 each spring so I don't have to do a flush every 60k. That is a PIA. If u want to get really picky then stop at a yoda dealer to get the Toyota Type IV ATF.
Thax guys that's exactly the kind of information I need....weekend is coming up so I think I am just going to go with the "Yoda" type IV ..haha
 

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I used the method that I saw in one of the threads where you have two dollar store gallon size fluid containers, a funnel with tube, and a $1 aluminum turkey pan:
dropped fluid into pan.....put plug back in......filled the container with used trans fluid from the pan then fill the other container with clean 3309..... then fill the trans via a funnel with a tube on it. Do it again if there was still more in the turkey pan.

The case from Amazon gave me enough fluid to change it out 3 times.
 

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Yeah, did this too

I also checked the fluid level which is a PITA.

The engine must be running, right?

The green dip stick is way the hell down in the engine bay and near the fan.

I wonder if you take the "o-ring" off the dipstick and duct tape a coat hanger to the end of the dipstick. then you could easily stand clear and check the level.

I miss the way the C900 did it with the dip stick right there on the driver side of the motor, right up at the top.
 

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Its not that bad once you get used to it. Definitely go from the bottom. I have a spot in my driveway where I can check it without jacking up the car or anything. Long extension on a ratchet to get the bolt off from the top then remove the dipstick and to check it. If you haven't checked it in the a long time it might be prudent to use some engine cleaner and power wash the crud out the day before. My advice is to mess with it when you are under the car and get good at putting the dipstick in and out so that you can do it blind with all four tires on the ground.

You are supposed to take off the o-ring for checking. It not only makes it more accurate but makes it much easier as the dipstick goes in and out much easier. Just don't forget to put the o-ring back in!
 

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When checking the fluid level you are suppose to remove the o-ring. When you check it you want the transmission to be warmed up (takes about a 12 mile drive) The ambient air temperature must be warm enough to let the transmission fully warm up.
 

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When checking the fluid level you are suppose to remove the o-ring. When you check it you want the transmission to be warmed up (takes about a 12 mile drive) The ambient air temperature must be warm enough to let the transmission fully warm up.
I finally found it on page three or so of that thread. T55. Now I have all the sizes so I know I won't (hopefully) run into any issues getting this completed. Thanks so much!
 
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