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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I posted a few question but no one can answer.
So I try to figure out what happened with my climate control system.

Push "Auto" and "Off" at the same time, it showed 1...21
This is the recirculation motor problem, the link http://www.saab9-5.com/faq_acc.htm

Then I search the website about the recirculation, motor, and saab.
I got some answer to take apart about recirculation.
The link http://www.scribd.com/doc/221791/Recirculation-Motor-Saab-95

I followed the step to open the motor, this part drop down.


I bought the part from thesaabsite, the part number is 4869426.
The picture show the position it is.


Compared with broken and new.


Unscrewed two screws you can see another small box which has four samll screws.


I only can find the part number in this small circle so far, no other place show
the number. It is 4117164. But I want the part is whole one, but this a little piece.

Open another small box, the motor and the gear wheel showed up.


This is the problem I have to figure out. The picture showed.


It was burned-out.
Now I need to buy new part to fix it, any suggestion about this?
The key is that I can not find the part name or number on thesaabsite, motor? recirculator? No hint been showed.
Any idea? Or someone can show me the parts number related recirculation motor~It is like the picture which showed me the part 4869426.

Thank you very much~
 

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Can't really help, there is something wrong with your links. I can't see any pictures save for the very last one on photobucket.

Sorry
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Upgraded picture and link, please see again~
Thank you!!
 

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I might be able to help - I have replaced the recirulation flap motor on my 9-5.

I cannot see your pictures and cannot figure out what part is burnt out? Can you post them again?
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Sometime the pictures showed slowly~
Sorry about that.

I try to figure out what number of the part for the recirculation motor?
Can you tell me the part number?
It could let me purchase from thesaabsite, thanks~
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, thanks for your help.
This picture is what I need.
:D
 

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Kitechan, in my case a component on the circuit bord controllong the motor went bad. If you have been using the speed controlled recirculation flap open/close option, this part has been working hard - specially if you do a lot of slow stop and go city driving.
 

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Kitechan, in my case a component on the circuit bord controlling the motor went bad. If you have been using the speed controlled recirculation flap open/close option, this part has been working hard - specially if you do a lot of slow stop and go city driving.
 
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
kitechan said:
I posted a few question but no one can answer.
So I try to figure out what happened with my climate control system.

Push "Auto" and "Off" at the same time, it showed 1...21
This is the recirculation motor problem, the link http://www.saab9-5.com/faq_acc.htm

Then I search the website about the recirculation, motor, and saab.
I got some answer to take apart about recirculation.
The link http://www.scribd.com/doc/221791/Recirculation-Motor-Saab-95

I followed the step to open the motor, this part drop down.


I bought the part from thesaabsite, the part number is 4869426.
The picture show the position it is.


Compared with broken and new.


Unscrewed two screws you can see another small box which has four samll screws.


I only can find the part number in this small circle so far, no other place show
the number. It is 4117164. But I want the part is whole one, but this a little piece.

Open another small box, the motor and the gear wheel showed up.


This is the problem I have to figure out. The picture showed.


It was burned-out.
Now I need to buy new part to fix it, any suggestion about this?
The key is that I can not find the part name or number on thesaabsite, motor? recirculator? No hint been showed.
Any idea? Or someone can show me the parts number related recirculation motor~It is like the picture which showed me the part 4869426.

Thank you very much~
I made the new link for photos.
How did you fix that? what kind of resistor should be put on?
Thank you~~
 

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After not dealing with it all winter, its finally getting warm and the no A/C experience from last summer is something I don't want to relive...

ACC code 21. Seems to be different from the typical blend door codes (7 & 8)?

Any chance anyone has pics similar to those posted many years ago above? Anyone ever fixed this issue themselves? Is a failure of this part (http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartDetail.aspx?id=4869426) the most likely cause?

Thanks for the help!
 

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Just tackled the recirc motor failure, ACC code 21. Mine had a broken link arm, fried resistor, and a gear with broken off cogs.

The recirc motor is the highest of the three accessible from the passenger side footwell. It is not immediately evident it is a servo motor until you start taking off some other parts. Most of what is visible is the side of its mounting bracket.

BTW, below the recirc motor is the servo controlling the diverter, which directs air between the torso vents and the windshield vent. This one has a metallic housing. The lowest of the 3 servo motors has an "R" on it and controls the air blend door.

Anyway, the recirc motor link arm broke off right at the shoulder. I could have purchased a replacement piece of crappy plastic for $30, but instead I fashioned a rectangular piece of sheet metal (HVAC), drilled a few holes in strategic locations, and used small machine screws and nuts to mount it to the 2 plastic pieces that the link arm broke into. One screw went into the center of the cylinder part of the arm. I ground the screw head flatter so it would not interfere so much with the spindle that goes in there and also drilled a depression in the spindle to accommodate the screw head. Another screw went into the middle of the outer of the 2 square voids along the arm portion. The metal plate was sized and positioned so the edge of the metal was tight against the ridge at the end of the square void, which kept the broken plastic arm from shifting positions with only 1 screw in it. I used 2 more wood type screws with points and drove those through predrilled holes in the metal plate and into the circular portion of the link arm, to keep the metal plate from rotating around independently of the plastic part. You only need to watch the clearances on the surface of the arm that faces the motor.

The resistor was a simple solder job. The spec is 18 ohms, but a common 10 ohm works if that is what you have lying around. Direction does not matter.

To deal with the gear with the broken cogs, I repositioned it so the missing portion was not right in the main range of motion. The link arm actually travels over a relatively small arc. I have read some people have had success supergluing the broken bits of cogs back onto the gears.
 

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The resistor burns out because the motor is shorted causing the resistor to use too many watts. If your resistor is burned out it is going to burn out again. The fix is in the motor.


My experience with this typical saab story goes like this...

Last year the air wasn't feeling cool enough and I realized it was not recirculating so, I started to research and learned about the broken arm and burnt resistor. So I removed the actuator assembly and yep, the arm fell on the floor. So I opened it up and yay, the resistor is also burnt. I figured this because I was getting the open code (21 if i remember correctly) since the broken arm doesn't set a code. I jb welded the arm and replaced the resistor and all was well for a few weeks but summer was over and it didnt get another thought.

It's getting hot again!

Soooo yesterday I opened it up again and the arm was fine but the resistor and board were black but funny thing....no code! Replaced the resistor and it started smoking immediately when hooked up. So I took the motor apart and cleaned the commutator with emery cloth and also ran the cloth between the commutator ends. This is the important part. The tiny commutator is in two halves and it builds up old brush material between them causing them to short. After sanding and clearing the area between the halves, i brake cleaned well between the two halves and the rest of the motor. There was about 25 fewer ohms of resistance in the motor causing the higher wattage in the resistor. I put the motor together and put power to the board and motor and you could tell it was more powerful by how it jumped when you put power to it. So I put everything back together and tested it on the vehicle. The resistance in the motor when I took it apart was 43 ohms and when I put it back together it was 68 ohms.

Plugged it back into the vehicle and hit the recirc button....

As soon as it moved the arm to the stop it snapped the JB welded arm off!

Ok there confirmed returned beefyness!

So i broke out the soldering iron, grabbed some extra plastic, welded it back together and so far it is surviving the recirc button and I have cooler air. I will most likely need another arm but wont need to buy this expensive and ridiculously simple actuator for this old car.

Good luck!
 

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The motor casing also has stops molded into the inside of it that take some of the stress off of the arm, but those tend to break apart once the arm breaks. You might have noticed some bits of black plastic floating around inside the case. Those were the stops. I got lucky enough to piece together two completely intact motor assemblies from multiple cars at Pick n Pull, but it took a while, and I still had to buy one new arm. It's just not a good design.
 

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I don't know where OP lives, but if the A/C system is working properly, it shouldn't need recirc to keep the car cool under almost all conditions.

Being stuck in traffic may be one of those cases where recirc is required, as the hot air from the engine and radiator can get sucked into the HVAC intake. But on the highway, the 9-5 system should cool you off pretty quickly.
 
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