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Discussion Starter #1
Finally a stretch of free time to work on this - I have the shortblock on an engine stand. I'm doing rings, bearings, chains and chain guides.

The plan is to remove and clean one piston at a time, replace the rod bearings and rings, put that piston back in and move to the next one. Is there any downside to doing it this way? The cylinder walls still have the original crosshatching so I'm thinking I'll not hone them. After pistons are done, do the main bearings.

The rear main seal is hidden by the engine stand - do I wait until it's suspended by the engine hoist? Curious how others have done this.

Thanks!
 

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I found it easier to take the crankshaft out and pull all of the pistons at once. Of course label them and remember there is a "front" arrow on the top of the piston that you probably can't see. (if you can see the Saab name and that is at 6-oclock, the arrow should be at 1-oclock and pointing toward 9-oclock) the arrow goes toward the timing cover end of the block.

I've also marked the connecting rods and orientation, don't know if you have to but be safe.

It's much easier to do the main bearings with the crank out so take the rear main seal out before you put the engine on the stand. (yea, I know)

On reassembly then put the crank and its new bearings in, make sure it turns nicely and then do one piston at a time with their new rings and bearings.

If you have "stud" style connecting rods cover the studs with a length of plastic hose to make sure you don't nick a crank journal on the way in.


As for doing a hone, you've come this far and you're doing new rings, why not?
(I did one of my B235's and didn't change the rings because the cross hatch was still there and the compression was still good so no new hone that time, but otherwise why not.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
OK - I'm glad this is my hobby and not my living :)

So the rear main seal has to come out before the crank, is that correct? If so I'll do it, just want to be sure. Thanks.
 

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Actually, now that I think about it, the rear end plate has to come off to take the crank out. You will have plenty of sealant from the timing cover kit to do the rear plate.

But if you don't want to take it off you can certainly put the bearings in with the crank in place and then do the rear main seal after all is done when you take it off the stand
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK Thanks Bill. Going to do it right and get it off the stand and pull the rear plate.
 
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