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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, all four tires on the new to me '01 base are resonably new like 10k. But both rear tires ar scaloped on the inside edge. Looks like a toe in issue? Can the rear wheels have the toe adjusted, or were these likely swaped from the front before the car was aligned last?
 
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should be a 4 wheel alignment on these. i have not done it yet but i hear there is a toe adjutment shim that is needed on some saabs. i think GM sells those shims.
 

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sounds like you need an alignment and possibly rear control arm bushings.

I didn't catch mine in time after putting new tires on last summer... I did get the control arm bushings replaced with poly ones and had an alignment done. Rear toe is easily adjustable, no shims are needed. Shims are only needed trying to correct camber in the rear.

But the tires I had on the rear did get a bit chewed, they're on the front now and making a good bit of noise. Going to have them swapping inside/outside and hope that makes a bit of a difference.

Definitely advisable to have an alignment done upon purchase of a 9-5, or especially after buying a new set of tires.
 

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sounds like trailing arm bushings and the need for an alignment
trailing arm bushings are rather in-expensive and can be had in polyurethane! common wear item on 9-5's
 

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I was having the same scalloping issue with heavy wear on the inside shoulder of the rear tires of my 03 9-5 aero wagon. Had shims and spring spacers installed, followed by a 4 wheel alignment at my local dealer.
 

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Definitely need an alignment. If you have a shop that will charge you a reduced amount to give you the current specs, that would allow you to take care of any potential issues with camber before having the alignment adjusted. My camber up front was spot on, but the rear was off. I put in shims myself (very easy to do) and then had it aligned. Now, my camber is spot on all around. Toe was out at all four corners and has been dialed in to proper specs. I ended up replacing bushings up front, tie rod ends, and struts/shocks all around so I knew things would be out of whack. My rear bushings were fine, so I added shims. Cark is spot on about toe not needing shims to correct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
shims?

Where did you guys get the shim kits for the rear of our cars?
 

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My 2001 9-5 Aero has been hard on rear tires ever since I got it in 2004. Shop quoted big bucks to get the toe-in fixed, said Saab did not provide adjustments, requiring shims & other work.

My solution is to run long tread life tires. The Kumho Ecsta LX Platinum with 600 treadwear index wears well and gives me almost 40K miles, drives nicely in wet and dry, used these the last 2 sets of tires. Recently put on the new Yokohama Avid Ascend which has a 700 treadwear index, the only tire fitting the Saab with a longer index than the Kumho, and its got some siping which should help in snow (Kumhos aren't too great in slick conditions). It's too recent to say if it's better, but both are reasonably priced. The overpriced Michelin Pilot MXMs it came with were crap, especially in wet conditions, also expensive Bridgestone Turanza's wore poorly. You don't always get what you pay for!
 

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I'm not sharp when it comes to items surrounding the 95 suspension system but read when the rear suspension begins to go it can negatively affect camber. It would appear that improper camber can be a cause of scalloping issues. Without any technical information my eyes see my rear wheels are tilted top inward and the wear corresponds to the way the wheel is tilted (inside edge wear).

Not sure about my rear suspension. I thought it was fine however I could not put my hand in straight in to the wheel well resting on the top of the tire. Is that a sagging rear on an Aero or should the tire top be hidden by the wheel well?

Knowing a replacement is coming I've band-aided the rear suspension with these hard rubber coil spring inserts. It's given me about 1.2 inch lift and a new firmness. Ride feels better and stiffer. Maybe this will help with my camber/wear issues for now? Maybe it's all in my head.
 

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Hi all,

I've gone through multiple sets of front and rear tyres while chasing the never-ending refresh of various front and rear parts. This also means I've had several alignments. I've brought the rear up to the correct ride height using spacers, and I didn't seem to have an issue (for the few months I checked) until I inevitably forgot to check it again. I've since done some more work to the front of the car and as it appeared to be tracking straight, did not get the alignment. Silly me I know, because now I have to replace the front tyres due to inner wear. I've now checked the rears, and they also have inner wear, so I'm due for a set of 4. My questions are...

1. If the front of the car is out of alignment (and causing inner tyre wear), will that contribute to inner tyre wear on the rear tyres?
2. I'm not experiencing much vibration, but my top engine and transmission mounts appear worn, so I'll probably be replacing these soon, and could do them prior to the 4 wheel alignment. I can't imagine it would, but would replacing any of the THREE engine mounts (rear, top left and top right) affect the 4 wheel alignment at all?

I'll also get the shop to check the rear before another 4 wheel alignment, because I'd rather not get another one for a while!

Thanks.
 

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My mechanic think he has figured it out. Do not get tires with open edge tread. Been using Firestone RE0 and Sumitomo and not Khumo and no issues

On the left are the Kuhmo ( I had terrible cupping with these) on the right is Fuzion ( seemed fine over 40K miles )

268709
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The key to any alignment is the first step. That is ride height. If that’s not right alignment will not solve the problem.
New springs? No, just spacers will work as new springs will sag anyway. Just my opinion. TheSaab rear ends are very complicated and after 01 were not very robust as they stopped using solid bushings and the big one is a massive job to replace.
Just a thought.
 

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Rear toe can be a cause of tire wear. Rear toe IS adjustable from the factory without shims or spacers. The front of the rear trailing arm is fastened to the body with 3 bolts. The bolt head size is 18mm. You can loosen them and adjust toe to where it needs to be and retighten the 18mm bolts. I read up on this a lot and there is a lot of posts saying you need to correct toe by shimming. All of the alignment shops I called said the same thing. When I had my car aligned, I had to inform the technician about the adjustment location and he was able to set toe no problem. Hope this helps!
 
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