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That's one of the saab9000.com procedures.

http://www.saab9000.com/procedures/suspension/antirollr.php

As is the case with nearly every procedure available at that site, this one is well written and has nice images. Here is the lead-in:

Time required

About 20 minutes: 5 minutes to jack up and remove the wheels, 5 minutes for each bush and 5 minutes to refit the wheels and lower the car.
Tools required

I assume some basic tools, such as a jack, axle stands, socket set, etc. However I do not assume you will already have all the necessary metric socket and spanner sizes, especially if you are in the USA. Here is a list so you can make sure you have all the necessary sizes before you start.

Sockets

  • 10mm
I'm not positive but, I'm fairly certain that citing just one tool (a 10mm socket), as the entire "the list of necessary tools"; while accurate - is meant to be humorous. I believe that's what is referred to as dry humor. Like Foghorn Leghorn would tell the little chicken hawk; I say, I say... that's a joke Son!

Sorry - I'm done for today. Just did an engine/AT R&R (to replace a 4HP -18 that died of mysterious causes) with a transmission cannibalized from a junk 9K. Married the donor transmission to the good engine and dropped it back in. The last couple of nights here in NH have been wicked cold - like 5 and 9 degrees below zero. I have no heat in my garage so it sucked. As payment I got a six pack of beer and a can of Kodiak.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Chengny but you miss my intent. I'm already all apart.

The sway bar END LINKS like in the http-link in my op are $120 a piece! There's a rubber bushing NOT SOLD SEPARATELY between the two pieces of the end link. This is RIVITED together. It was never meant to be rebuilt/repaired but ONLY replaced... I wish to renew the rubber in the old end-link.

I will figure out how to rebuild it rather than replace it. But if someone's already crossed this bridge I'd like to learn from their experience before I cut mine apart...
 

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REMOVAL


  1. Lift the car and remove the road wheels.
  2. Position a jack under the rear axle to slightly unload it.
  3. Remove the nut and bolt for the damper and anti-roll bar.
  4. Lower the jack below the rear axle and pull the anti-roll bar backwards.
IMPORTANT:</B> Ensure that the flexible hose is not damaged.
  1. Force out the bush using tool 89 96 274. First lubricate the exposed parts of the bush and tool sleeve with Vaseline.


INSTALLATION


  1. Clean the bush seating on the anti-roll bar and lubricate with Vaseline.
  2. Lubricate the rubber bush and also the tool with Vaseline.
  3. Compress the bush.
  4. Position the bush with the tool, screw, sleeve and nut, and press in the bush. Remove the tool.
  5. Position the anti-roll bar in the fitting position.
  6. Lift the rear axle and fit the screw to the damper and the anti-roll bar. Use a new nut.
  7. Tighten the screw. Tightening torque: 85 Nm (63 ft. lbs.)
  8. Fit the road wheels and lower the car.
  9. Tighten the wheel studs. Tightening torque: 120 Nm (89 ft. lbs.)


Stabilizer Bushing » Tools and Equipment:

  1. To produce the tool (89 96 274) use a pair of pipe grips with a minimum opening of 35mm and a piece of water pipe.
  2. Saw of a section of pipe with an inner diameter of approximately 27 mm and a thickness of 3 - 4 mm . The length should be 20 mm .
  3. Saw the pipe in two equal sized halves.
  4. Set the pipe halves in a vice so that they sit edge to edge on one side.
  5. Weld the two pipe halves together.



OEM part numbers and prices:

Inner bushing 8962011$18.45 Outer bushing 4425583$13.60
 

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Too many 3 letter words for the sharty search feature... :roll:
Google didn't help either...

So, has anybody rebuilt their rear sway bar end links? At $220 for the pair I'd rather find a way to renew the one dollars worth of worn rubber.

link to pic for reference...
http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/32866/Sway-Bar-End-Link-Rear-Passenger-Side-4193140/
Easiest way to deal with the upper bush wear is to replace with a different set off another car, or if using a thicker roll bar, or as in my case a track car setup, just use a second set plus original,

This will tighten & toughen things for small outlay of time and effectively no parts cost.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Easiest way to deal with the upper bush wear is to replace with a different set off another car, or if using a thicker roll bar, or as in my case a track car setup, just use a second set plus original,

This will tighten & toughen things for small outlay of time and effectively no parts cost.
I figured one of you tuner types would have dealt with this somehow. It seems like even a new one would be pretty sloppy/flexy!
I realize there needs to be some lateral play in the joint so my thought of replacing the rubber with a bearing might be a little too stiff but it seems like poly would be a better than stock repair.

How far apart did you set your second set of links?
 

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mine are sitting with a pile of parts awaiting spring for better working conditions, think it is a case of as close to OEM set subject to what can fit.
Making this real stiff will change everything back there & I suspect make the ride too harsh. My double is more in case one blows off under hard cornering.

There have been others make this modification, either on SL or TSN seen several others goe this route.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Kevin, I'm guessing you would know this.
My rear sway bar is 19mm thick. So my '97 CSE has the same sway bar as an Aero? Saab didn't use poly bushings for the Aero did they?

So the only difference in suspension is a slightly lower spring and different valving/action on the shocks/struts?
 

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Thanks Chengny but you miss my intent. I'm already all apart.

The sway bar END LINKS like in the http-link in my op are $120 a piece! There's a rubber bushing NOT SOLD SEPARATELY between the two pieces of the end link. This is RIVITED together. It was never meant to be rebuilt/repaired but ONLY replaced... I wish to renew the rubber in the old end-link.

I will figure out how to rebuild it rather than replace it. But if someone's already crossed this bridge I'd like to learn from their experience before I cut mine apart...
Hi Banman, did you figure it out somehow please? i'm in the need of sway bar end links replacement too and they're still at approx 144eur/piece. thanks,
gustav
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi Banman, did you figure it out somehow please? i'm in the need of sway bar end links replacement too and they're still at approx 144eur/piece. thanks,
gustav

Yikes! I just got round trip tickets to Paris, France for that kinda money!

My 9K has been somewhat neglected with other priorities...
I still have my spare pair of end-links to rebuild but have not done so yet or I'd have posted a write up here.

I still expect to do the project maybe this summer -- what I would do is drill out the center rivet so you can separate the two metal pieces. Press out the rubber part. Get a shock-absorber bushing (or similar) and trim to fit where the old bushing was. Assemble the two metal pieces and replace the rivet with a bolt. Use a self-locking nut of some sort, either a "nyloc" or "stover" so it won't fall off without being over-tightened. You want the nut snug, but don't want to crush the 'new' bushing.

If that doesn't make sense, I'll try and explain better...
 
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