[Rodentmaster]

Hi there,

Has anyone with a 3/5dr hatch tried to baffle the frame of the rear to improve the sound integrity for high powered speakers? ie: in the 'C' and 'D' pillars?
I've remade a rear parcel tray and subtle improvements are coming but if you look closely at the pixs, the rear door doesn't quite seal in the corners. The amps went in 3 months ago, rear tray and speakers 2 weeks ago. The bass isn't tight enough! Around 60 to 70 hz is too loose according to the pink noise meter.
Sorry about the quality...Sony single ccd Digital8 stills!;oops:

http://www.saab-900.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1966&stc=1



Cheers.

 

[PHAT_joe]

your install looks pretty clean, i did notice something of a potential problem: your amps are located very close to your fuel tank and are in bare metal; this creates both a potential fire hazard and might expose your amps to bare metal which is not wise for even partially exposed wires as they would be on the amps connections. also i have found that when it rains i get some water inside that spare tire compartment. my suggestion would be to relocate those amps perhaps inside the actual cargo area where they may be redialy accessable if need be; this would also alow heat form the amps to dissapate better which would effectivly extend the life of the amp. i put my amp right ontop of my self in the rear and made it into the centerpeice of my system. amps and speakers can be quite attractive if they are placed right - its the wiring that is ugly.

keep in mind though that i'm just looking out for your safety.

in regards to your question though; can you put up some specs about your equipment (amp RMS, subwoffer size and power rating, subwoffer enclosure, types of wiring, etc) that would better help me figure out why your bass is running so high.

Joe

 

[Rodentmaster]

Hi there,

I did think about the location of the amps long and hard and decided on that location to reduce the chance of recurring damage from contents in the boot area. In any case, the amps have 3 to 4 inches space before they would come into contact with the metal near the tank. They are sitting 20mm off the floor on shanks so hopefully water should not be a problem should a leak occur.

Clarion

CD6410 Unit Component Head, CD 605 Stacker ( under passenger seat ).
Clarion A1200 Amp. 4 Channel amp, (USA Built) operating in 2 channel balanced mode. 75 W rms - Rear Speakers
Clarion A500 - (USA Built) 30 W rms to front speakers
Front Speakers - (still to be fitted) Clarion 150 w peak, 4", 3 way.
Rear Speakers - Infinity Kappas 693 MkII, 100 w rms, 6x9, 3 way.

I don't need a subwoofer. The Infinity's aren't lacking bass power.
At between 60 and 70 hz, depending on the position of the meter, we're getting on average, 4-5 db gain resonance in the rear. That's why I'm looking to tighten the airflow in the rear cavities. Problem is the side vents which hatch backs have. I'm still thinkng about those. Its such a big cavity at the rear that I think I'm going to have an uphill battle to tighten the air space successfully to give good back pressure. When I play "Garbage, 'Pink' album, track 6, the bass is way too strong and needs to be reduced otherwise the amp cuts out.
If throttled loud enough, the current consumption gets too high and causes a 3 to 5 volt drop across the lead from the battery, so the next step is to install some 12mm power trunk from the battery.

It's a work in progress.

Cheers

 

[eggsngrits]

Yes, you are right about the air flow. Installing the speakers in something a bit more air tight would reduce the cone travel and reduce the loose sound and high current (some).


In addition to the side vents, I doubt the removable parcel shelf really seals well enough, either. {Edit: After looking at your shelf again, it's different from the parcel shelves in both of my 3-doors so it may be good enough. You know better than I do.}

Something like this would work, but it would perhaps cut the bass a bit too much (small enclosure). A larger set of enlosures would work (of course), but they will significantly cut into the storage space available.
If you want to keep the storage space and use the whole rear area as an enclosure, you've got litte choice but to live with it the way it is or install a sealing strip around the shelf and block the vents.

Edit number two: You know, this may sound a little crazy, but I think that it is something to consider: how about building some small enclosures about the same height as the rear head rests? If you need more enclosure volume they could extend to the underside of the shelf a bit through the holes already there for the original mount.

 

[Rodentmaster]

Hi there,

I remade the shelf with subtle over sizing so that when the fabric was laid the shelf would be tight. I also added the tongues at the rear corners to plug the gaps but still kept the arc so to be able to use the door clip to hold the shelf up.
I also added cutouts where the headrests are so as to be able to close the gap between back of the seat and shelf.
It never ends............



Cheers