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Discussion Starter #1
We attempted to replace the rear pads and rotors on my 93.

The problem came when we tried to remove the caliper bracket (held on by two E18 reverse-torx bolts). The bolts were on very tight and we got the bottom one about 1/8" out and them my friend who was helping me said it felt like the head was going to snap off.

At this point I decided to put the original pads back in and put it all together.

I need to get the bottom bolt out (and replace it). I have, I believe, two options:

1)Heat the bottom bolt with a propane torch until it's good and hot to melt the locktite, then it should come out without the head snapping off.

2)If the head does snap off...remove the top bolt and then pull the caliper bracket off with the bottom bolt still in it and work on it off the car, heating it if necessary to loosen the locktite so I can remove the bottom bolt with channelock pliers.

If the head does snap off, will I be able to remove the caliper bracket from the car?

Has anyone had any luck with heating the bolts to loosen the locktite?
 

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Recently did my brakes working with my brother. He was the one that worked the bolts on the back. They were a bear to get off. We tried impact, ended up using a long breaker bar on the socket and they finally broke lose.

I don't remember him mentioning concern the head felt like it was going to go, but he did complain that the locktite was the problem and it did take a lot of effort and leverage to get them out.

Your wise to have fallback plans in case something could happen, torch sounds like a good option. Just heating and cooling the bolt could break the seal. But maybe it's just a lot harder then you thought to break the lock. We extended the breaker bar with a pipe just to get more leverage on it. It's a cramped area to get any hold on it.
 

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I had problems getting the bolts off also and I was using a 2' breaker bar. After being frustrated with it I decided to try replacing the rotors and bads without removing the calipers. It worked and was much quicker.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It didn't seem like the rotors would come off without removing the bracket.

In any case I called the dealer to order some new bolts, so I don't have to worry about breaking them.
 

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I just did my rear brakes last week. The only way I was able to get the bolts loose was to heat the bolt with the torch AND then to use a breaker bar. You only need to take one bolt out then loosen the other. I think I took the top one out & loosen the bottom
 

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Good to have the extra parts on hand that you think you'll break! :) I had more problems with the front caliper carrier. But I do remember when trying to remove the rears, that I was compressing the suspension with torque from my ratchet! :eek: I didn't think I was that strong!

What I don't understand, and hopefully somebody can explain it to me, is this:

The front calipers are held on buy 2 torx bolts that the caliper slides on, and are tightened to something like 22ft/lbs. The caliper carrier, which arguable sees the same forces, is held on by 2 Etorx bolts that are tightened to something like 155ft/lbs +35 degrees AND liberal use of loctite!

If these 2 sets of fasteners see roughly the same forces, heat, road junk, etc., why the huge disparity in torque?

Inquiring minds want to know...
 

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You don't need to take the brake caliper bracket off in order to swap rotors. I did them on my Aero two months back.
Just loosen the caliper lock screw, and take the caliper off. Here are some of photos of when I did mine:




 

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Discussion Starter #8
I noticed that your rear rotors are vented..mine are not. I wonder if only the vented rear rotors can be removed without removing the caliper bracket due to the different dimensions and clearances involved?

In any case, I've got 4 new bolts, so if one or more of them break in the process of getting them out no big deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Go Green said:
If these 2 sets of fasteners see roughly the same forces, heat, road junk, etc., why the huge disparity in torque?
All I can tell you is that I've never done a brake job on a car where they used loctite on the caliper bracket bolts...and I've NEVER had a problem getting them out. Until now.


Incidentally, some models of the Mazda 3 and a Volvo model (S70 I think) share the same rear brake pads as our cars. This probably means the caliper is made by the same company. I wonder if Mazda and Volvo put loctite on their caliper bracket bolts???
 

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brianl703 said:
I noticed that your rear rotors are vented..mine are not. I wonder if only the vented rear rotors can be removed without removing the caliper bracket due to the different dimensions and clearances involved?

In any case, I've got 4 new bolts, so if one or more of them break in the process of getting them out no big deal.
It doesn't hurt to try. Its a close fit, but may still be able to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
With heat from a propane torch, the bolt came out. In fact it was almost easy enough to remove with short ratchet. The bolt did not look damaged but I replaced it anyway.

The other 3 bolts also came out very easily after applying a propane torch (the type you use to solder copper pipes with) to them. It only took about 30-40 seconds of heating with a medium flame to loosen up the loctite. The only thing is that the loctite hardens back up after it cools so it may be necessary to apply the flame again if the bolt starts getting tight again.

The unvented rear rotors definitely would not come out without loosening up the caliper bracket. It isn't necessary to completely remove the caliper bracket, just loosing the bolts.
 

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What year are we talking about in this thread??

I have a 2006 93 ARC and the bolts are too tight. Do I need a E18 Torx socket?? And I have the vented discs, so do I need to take the brake caliper bracket off or can I get the disc off without removing it?? Thanks for any help or ideas.
 

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FreshDesigns said:
I have a 2006 93 ARC and the bolts are too tight. Do I need a E18 Torx socket??
Yes, they're E18 Torx Socket. link

mypost
Ignore the links to the autozone pages, they're out of date.

FreshDesigns said:
And I have the vented discs, so do I need to take the brake caliper bracket off or can I get the disc off without removing it?? Thanks for any help or ideas.
If you have the rear vented disc like mine (MY2006 93 Aero 2.8), you don't need to remove the caliper bracket. Just the single screw which secures the disc to the wheel hub.

I believe all trims of the MY2006 93SS model had the same diameter rear discs. But I'm not sure all of them were also vented. So if your's are vented, you've got a much easier job ahead of you. You wont need to brake the thread-locker glue on those caliper bracket bolts, which they apply at the factory.
 

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In the FWIW department, I've dealt with a number of different makes of vehicles where they use a carrier frame for the caliper. The caliper retaining bolts are typically 15-25 ft pounds and the bracket retaining bolts are 75+. You probably need an ME to explain that one, but it seems to be a general principle.
 

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SAABRoma said:
Yes, they're E18 Torx Socket. link

mypost
Ignore the links to the autozone pages, they're out of date.



If you have the rear vented disc like mine (MY2006 93 Aero 2.8), you don't need to remove the caliper bracket. Just the single screw which secures the disc to the wheel hub.

I believe all trims of the MY2006 93SS model had the same diameter rear discs. But I'm not sure all of them were also vented. So if your's are vented, you've got a much easier job ahead of you. You wont need to brake the thread-locker glue on those caliper bracket bolts, which they apply at the factory.


for the 2006 year 2.0T there are at least two different disc sizes. I had to make two trips to the dealer to get the right ones and this after returning the discs i bought from autozone becuase they were wrong. i did not try to get mine off without removing the caliper bracket ;oops: . i used propane torch and impact gun and they came out fairly easily. without a torch i wouldn't bother you will break something.. probably face or knuckles
 

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Removing Rotor on 2006 93 is easy!!!

I just removed the rotor on my daughters 2004 93 ARC WITHOUT removing the caliper bracket!!:lol: Just remove the small screw holding the rotor and it comes right off!!! THANK YOU for the information and pictures. I struggled with the caliper bracket for hours and jacked up the bolt heads before I looked on line for help. Thank god for the internet!!!
 

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mcscholz said:
i did not try to get mine off without removing the caliper bracket ;oops: . i used propane torch and impact gun and they came out fairly easily. without a torch i wouldn't bother you will break something.. probably face or knuckles
Screw security Loctite sealant paste, there is a trick to facilitate the process of removing them.
you must put a pipe-wrench in the screw and you give light hammer blows to break the glue by vibration (paste break) and then comes easily like a normal screw.
 

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I have a 2004 9-3 ARC with vented rear rotors and I can confirm that the rotors will come off without having to remove the caliper bracket. Just remove the set screw and the rotors come right off. I would highly recommend getting the brake tool with the T-handle to push the piston back in. I tired using the cube tool with a ratchet and it was near impossible to press it back in.
 

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Yes the vented rear rotors come off without removing the bracket. The solid rotors can be removed by removing the lower bolt and merely loosening the top. That top one, esp on the left is a RPIA even on a lift. You need that E18 socket ground down slightly to clear that suspension bolt thats TOO DAMN LONG along with a 1/2" breaker bar and long extension and a couple of wobbles while your at it.
 
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