Re-installing driveshafts
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Let us know how the inner drive clamps work out
I had one of these drive axles done by an independent mechanic on Friday. I had a ripped cv boot replaced. He chose to pop the ball joint instead of dropping the control arm. I was going to do the job and follow a thread from this board but when I saw how little clearance there was for that inner driver clamp I decided to let a pro do it. I had one axle replaced this past spring. The CV joint had gone at 130,000. The mechanic found a used axle from the other side and used it instead of a new or rebuilt. Seems to work fine but I do have some inner driver issues, it probably needs a shim. I think the inner right driver is "slipping" during hard acceleration. You feel a shudder.
Everything about the assembly seems straight forward except reaching that inner clamp. What type of 3" clamp are you using? The wind up one? the squeeze one? Someone said a heater hose clamp would work. Someone had installed my inner boot with a zip tie and it didn't hold.
Did you drop the control arm and tie rod to free the strut assembly?
I had one of these drive axles done by an independent mechanic on Friday. I had a ripped cv boot replaced. He chose to pop the ball joint instead of dropping the control arm. I was going to do the job and follow a thread from this board but when I saw how little clearance there was for that inner driver clamp I decided to let a pro do it. I had one axle replaced this past spring. The CV joint had gone at 130,000. The mechanic found a used axle from the other side and used it instead of a new or rebuilt. Seems to work fine but I do have some inner driver issues, it probably needs a shim. I think the inner right driver is "slipping" during hard acceleration. You feel a shudder.
Everything about the assembly seems straight forward except reaching that inner clamp. What type of 3" clamp are you using? The wind up one? the squeeze one? Someone said a heater hose clamp would work. Someone had installed my inner boot with a zip tie and it didn't hold.
Did you drop the control arm and tie rod to free the strut assembly?
I seperated the lower ball joint on both sides. Haven't picked up the clamps for the boots yet. Didn't notice a tear in either boot, but I'll look them over carefully again. Figured I might throw some more grease in there while everything is apart. Wasn't sure if I shoud clean the old grease out. They pulled apart awfully easy.
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same
Inspect the boots carefully for any cracks, even surface cracks.
For some reason the LS inner boot is hard to find and extremely expensive at the dealer ($42); the others are normally priced and available..
I use cable ties rather than the strap(admittedly better); the plastic cable ties work and last - I think it is a matter of workmanship as much as anything.
The transmission side seals should be renewed. But I did not do this with any of my cars , not problem as yet- years later...
Re-lubricate the inners using CV grease, be generous, but not too; keep the area as clean as possible, dirt/grit is a no-no - this is easy to say, more difficult to do.
Use copious quantities of newspaper.
Inspect the boots carefully for any cracks, even surface cracks.
For some reason the LS inner boot is hard to find and extremely expensive at the dealer ($42); the others are normally priced and available..
I use cable ties rather than the strap(admittedly better); the plastic cable ties work and last - I think it is a matter of workmanship as much as anything.
The transmission side seals should be renewed. But I did not do this with any of my cars , not problem as yet- years later...
Re-lubricate the inners using CV grease, be generous, but not too; keep the area as clean as possible, dirt/grit is a no-no - this is easy to say, more difficult to do.
Use copious quantities of newspaper.
You can squeeze the new grease down the middle and push out the old grease
If you don't see a need to completely clean the CV joint you can take the new tube of CV grease and squeeze it down the middle of the joint so that it pushes up from below. This will push out the old grease and leave you with a nice clean lubrication on the bearings.
If you don't see a need to completely clean the CV joint you can take the new tube of CV grease and squeeze it down the middle of the joint so that it pushes up from below. This will push out the old grease and leave you with a nice clean lubrication on the bearings.
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71 Posts
hi drabix, just posted a thread about changing out the clutch and having a problem getting out the drive axle on the tranny side. you seemed to get them out ok what is the secret? did u beat up the seal ring in the process and if so are these easily replaced? thanks as i'm stuck at this point in the tranny removal process and don't want to desrtoy the axle!
Samesaabstory,
I seperated the axles by pulling them apart at the inboard CV joint on each side. They came apart very easily as I recall, but I also separated the spindles from the lower control arms. I put plastic ziplock bags around each half of the joint to keep dirt out while I moved manifolds to a new engine. I put a new clutch in while everything was apart because it was convienent and the car has 145k miles on it.
This turned into one of those projects that got shelved for a few months while other things took up my attention, but I'm finally getting the car on the road this weekend.
I seperated the axles by pulling them apart at the inboard CV joint on each side. They came apart very easily as I recall, but I also separated the spindles from the lower control arms. I put plastic ziplock bags around each half of the joint to keep dirt out while I moved manifolds to a new engine. I put a new clutch in while everything was apart because it was convienent and the car has 145k miles on it.
This turned into one of those projects that got shelved for a few months while other things took up my attention, but I'm finally getting the car on the road this weekend.
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