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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had a radiator failure today and I am just wondering if anyone has ever seen this happen. I replaced the radiator with a brand new one about 2K miles ago along with all the hoses. Today driving to work the low coolant light came on, so after previous experience I stopped, let everthing get coild and put some water in. I heard the water coming straight back out, on intial inspection it looks as if one of the plastic ends (the entire vertical side) has come away from the aluminium core. Not at all happy about the prospects of replacing this again, as it was a real pain to do last time.

The one thing I had noticed after replacing all the hoses, thermostat and radiator is that the system seemed to have a lot of pressure in it, even if I hadn't driven the car for a couple of days. Is this normal? I don't remember it being like this before all of my leak issues.
 

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Sounds like the rad was a faulty part or it was installed improperly. Make sure that the rad was secured properly and that there's no tension on any of the hoses.
 

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Those can be p^laced back and clamped on by a radiator shop. Mine cost me $45 to fix and test 2 years ago, it's still working fine :)

Looks like it was a faulty radiator or you have a bad thermostat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I believe I installed it correctly, there didn't seem to be any tension in the hoses. The failure seems to have occured along the vertical edge of one of the plastic end caps, where it meets up with the core.

It was a cheaper one by a company call Vista Pro. I understand it does have a one year warranty. It may be a case of you get what you pay for.

I am still a little bit concerned about the pressure build up I was seeing and maybe it just blew it apart.
 

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I had the original OEM radiator fail on me last summer at 138k. The plastic siding had cracked and lost all of my fluid at an intersection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Did you replace it or pay someone to do it. As I said earlier I replaced it a couple of months ago and it was a real B***h to do. I was wondering how much someone charges to replace it.
 

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I did my own in the beginning of April, and you are right, it's a pain. I did roughly what you did, all the hoses (still have to do the throttle body to engine hose), t-stat, and then a bunch of other stuff. I mangled the original Blackstone taking it out. Mine might be a little easier, since the with 2.3 I have a little more room, and can ull it up through the engine bay. I made sure not to mangle my new Nissens on the way in. The Nissens actually feels a little beefier than the OEM (even though I think by the time the og 9-3 came out, the Nissens was the OEM, as you can't find Blackstone anywhere on the inter-web). By myself in a not-so-well lit garage, roughly 4 hours (with breaks), as I pondered how not to destroy anything but the leaking Blackstone.

But you know what? I'm glad I got the experience, and when we gain experience, we can help each other out on this workshop, right?

Hey- didn't your info say you were from AZ this morning? You moved to Dallas today?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Metalbender, make sure you get thoose throttle body hoses changed, that was the last leak mine developed, it was right at the end of the hose that goes into the inlet manifold. I agree about the valuble experience, it's just it ws a pain and I only did it a couple of months ago.

I moved from Tucson to Fort Worth in February, but only noticed yesterday that I hadn't updated my profile.

One thing that still concerns me is the residual pressure left in the system. Could a dodgy thermostat cause this? I think when I replace the radiator I will replace the thermostat again. And after all this is done I will tackle the head gasket, that should be fun.
 

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Yeah, I was trying to remember if that was your thread I posted on some months back! I have the hose, as I replaced every one with genuine Saab hoses but the passenger side throttle body hose- the one you had the problem with. My car had a mix-and match of of original and replaced hoses. I think that this particular one was replaced once, since it has some of the cool looking ABA clamps on it. That was a pleasant surprise, since I had just picked a bunch of those clamps up from eEuro, but I had to get the larger lower radiator ABA hose clamp from IPD Volvo parts. Then refilled with blue Saab coolant in a 55% coolant/45% water mix. Lower freezing point, this is Wisconsin:cheesy:

I will get to it, and I have to do the oil pressure switch as well, after I looked at PMI's site, I realized mine is dead. No oil light at start-up. Not a good thing if you see the 'Oil light then FIRE post'.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes that was me, thanks for your help metalbender, I will keep you posted on the prceedings. I will replace the radiator and do the head gasket at the same time. Then I believe the water pump shall quit, as it will be the only part that hasn't been replaced in the cooling system. I am beginning to think that the pressure build up that I was seeing is due to the head gasket and exhaust gasses getting in the coolant system, well thats my theory :confused:
 
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