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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so im going to be changing oil for the first time in my saab...ive gone to independant saab shops before and got it done there, but i was curious about the gm-lla-025 spec.

so basically i just bought 6 quarts of castol syntec 5w-30 cuz it meets the gm spec (i couldnt find mobil1 0w-30 in my area). but my question is...would i be ok getting away with something like 10w30 or 5w30 or even 0w30/40 that does not have this gm spec? i live in san francisco, so it doesnt get as cold as it would in lets say....sweden.

sorry if this is a stupid question....all my previous cars were crap so when i did oil changes, i just got 10w30. just want to clarify my confusion.
 

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Not a stupid question at all, the two Oils mentioned in the manual and recommended by Saab are Saab 0w30 Turbo Oil (that answers the 0w30 query) and mobil 1 0w40. The actuall factory fill is Elf, which here is Elf Full Tech Excellum (0w30). There is also a company GMC Oil http://www.gmc-solution.com/ which meets the Spec along with even Amsoil 5w40 Euro Spec. http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/afl.aspx Realistically you can use any good quality Oil and change it at a reasonable interval. The Algorithm is specific to the GM Spec so some think thats the only oil you can use. And another Oil won't void your warranty.

Others will disagree with some things I've said, but I don't believe any manufacturer would build a car dependant on one kind/brand of Oil....
 

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If you're changing the oil yourself, you'll need one more thing - a 32mm socket designed to remove the oil filter cover. I though I could do it with my regular 32mm 1/2inch drive socket, but due to clearances for the cap, it doesn't work. I can get the socket on there (barely) but once I start unscrewing the cap, it jams the socket back up against part of the power steering drive.

You need a low-profile socket like this:

http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=99

I found an equivalent in stock at a local parts store for like $5.99

As for the oil, as JonV said, if you're going by the oil life algorythm (service life indicator in the car) then use oil that meets the GM-LLA-025 spec. Weather you use a 5W-30 or 0W-40 or 0W-30 really doesn't make that much of a difference, if it meets the spec, it's OK. If you can get the Castol locally, then just use that and don't think twice about it.

I wouldn't use a conventional (non synthetic) oil in a turbocharged car; unless you religiosly changed it every 3000 miles. If you do the math, in the long run, it will cost you more than using synthetic every 15,000 miles:

6 quarts conventional @ $1.39 + $10 filter = $18.34

6 quarts synth @$5.99 + $10 filter = $45.94

If the synthetic only lasted 3 times as long as the conventional (9,000 miles) you'd be money ahead.
 

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I could be wrong but I don't think most 03 guys go the full 15K...even with full synth I do it every 7.5 and I'm sure 10 would be fine. In 05 or 06 they changed the interval to 10K....now think about that for a minute...it's the same 2.0T

Regarding cost, if your not a DIY guy you could be paying anywhere from 60 to 120 (it's been said) for an OC. If you were changing Dino Oil every 3k it would be about 110 or so for 5 DIY OC's...In any case, 150 or so a year for Oil is still really chump change in the scheme of things.
 

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The oil is to be changed whenever the time interval is reached or the oil life monitor reaches 0%, whichever happens first.

They changed the time interval from 2 years to 1 year in 05 or 06. Since most people drive about 10k a year (national average is actually 12k a year according to State Farm), with a 1-year interval, the oil gets changed about every 10k-12k for most people.

But someone with an 06 who does a lot of highway driving may well go 18K miles in a year and their oil would be changed at 18K, if the oil life monitor didn't reach 0% before then (probably not if they do a lot of highway driving).

Other GM vehicles with the oil life monitor also say in the manual to change the oil whenever the oil life monitor reaches 0% or it's been 1 year since the last oil change, whichever happens first.

I think a 2 year interval is too long, myself.

I noticed that Mobil 1 recommends a 15,000 mile or 1 year oil change interval with their Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil. AMSOIL is similar, up to 25,000 miles or 1 year, whichever comes first.

The conclusion I come to is that no matter how many miles you do or don't drive, you should be changing your oil at LEAST once a year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks for all the replies. at the time of my post, i had already purchased 6 quarts of castrol syntec because it was the only one that met the spec, but i think i will wait until after my 60k mile major service. for now i will get some cheaper synthetic oil to put in...like mobile1 or something. 6 quarts of my castrol was about 40 bucks. i got my oil filter for free. but i can get my oil changed at the shop for 50 bucks anyways. thanks again for all the information.

for anyone who wants info on how to change oil. use this link. i found this cardomain site about a year ago. i dont know who's it is, but it is very informative...with pictures too.
 

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There's one in our forum with pics also; http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=582468

Originally posted by MarkJ


Changing oil in this car is a snap, here's what you need to do:

Shopping list:
6 quarts of Mobil 1 oil 0W-40 $5.75 each
1 SAAB oil filter $6.95
1 oil filter gasket $3.00
1 drain plug washer gasket $1.00

Tools:
1 set of Rhino Ramps (found at Sears)
large drain pan
Torx tool set
15mm socket for oil plug
32mm socket for the oil filter housing. (Torque down the housing to 18 ft/lbs.)

Instructions:
1. Raise the car
Access the bottom of the car to get to the oil drain plug. This is easier if you own a set of rhino ramps, and you drive your car up onto them for elevation. Make sure to set the parking brake and follow all safety instructions for raising your car off its wheels.

2. Drain the oil
Make sure you have a large drain pan to catch the 6 quarts of oil you are about to dump when removing the drain plug. Use a high quality 6 point 15mm socket (i.e. Snap-on, Craftsmen, etc..) Do not use the $6.00 socket set from Kmart (you could strip the drain plug very easily and then need a costly repair). Also be careful, if the engine is hot, the oil will also be hot! Remove the drain plug by turning it in a counter-clockwise rotation (left). Allow the oil to drain until it drips very slowly. Inspect the o-ring for tears or other damage, replace if needed. Reinstall the drain plug by turning clockwise (right). Remember, righty tighty, lefty loosey.

Picture of the drain plug


3. Change the oil filter

Remove the front engine trim (black plastic) by removing the three torx screws. The oil filter cap is on the driver's side under the intake mainifold. It is made of black plastic and has a 32mm hex head on the top. (Saab has a special tool for this job. It is a very short 32mm socket made by Hazet, you can use a 32mm socket with a 10" extension). Remove the housing by turning counter-clockwise (left) and remove from the engine.






Replace the oil filter, clean and lube the o-ring and reinstall. Tighten by turning clockwise (right). Clean the area with brake cleaner or other solvent. Reinstall the engine trim cover.

4. Refill with fresh oil
Remove the yellow oil cap and fill with 6 quarts of Mobil 1 0W-40 synthetic oil. It you want to use a different brand, make sure it is listed as GM-LL-A-025 certified.

5. Start the car and let it run for a few minutes. Make sure oil is not running out from underneath the car. Shut off the engine and let is sit for a few minutes. Check the oil level and adjust as needed.

6. You are done
 

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Ok, so now I am totally confused. I just did my first oil change on my 2007 9-3 last week. I used 10w-30 Mobil 1.

But up above everyone is saying 0w-30.....What should I be using?? The manual said 10w-30 is ok. I live in the DC area, so temps are 20-60 deg in the winter and 80-100 in the summer.

Advice would be great!
 

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Look on the back of the bottle for something along the lines of "meets GM-LL-025A" If it doesn't specifically say that, it doesn't meet all of the standards.

I believe the only Mobil1 that meets the spec is 0W-40. Castrol Syntec 0W-30 and ELF Elfinium 0W-30 also meet the spec. All of these are full synthetic.

BTW - In case you weren't aware of it, the first couple of oil changes are free at the dealer (up to 36,000 miles)
 

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Nickshu said:
Ok, so now I am totally confused. I just did my first oil change on my 2007 9-3 last week. I used 10w-30 Mobil 1.

But up above everyone is saying 0w-30.....What should I be using?? The manual said 10w-30 is ok. I live in the DC area, so temps are 20-60 deg in the winter and 80-100 in the summer.

Advice would be great!
The OP is driving an 03, our manuals say Saab Turbo Oil 0w30 or Mobil 1 0w40 and 15K Interval. In 06 they changed the Interval. If they changed the weight, I do not know.

There is latitude, you can use a 5w30 or 40 (In our case)...I'd said earlier I don't believe a manufacturer would build a car that would only run on one Oil, and posted several GM Spec options. If you want to change it alot you can even revert to Mineral Oil.

Just do what the book says...
 

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Nickshu said:
Ok, so now I am totally confused. I just did my first oil change on my 2007 9-3 last week. I used 10w-30 Mobil 1.

But up above everyone is saying 0w-30.....What should I be using?? The manual said 10w-30 is ok. I live in the DC area, so temps are 20-60 deg in the winter and 80-100 in the summer.

Advice would be great!
As noted oil changes are free...

Are you sure the manual says 10W30 is recommended. I'm sure it's ok but is it recommended?
It's always been 0W30 and 0W 40 which are sorta hard to find. Perhaps the 5W weights are now approved but I doubt 10W.
 

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Here's what the MY2003 manual says:

Oil grade:
We recommend the use of Saab or Mobile oils, available from
you Saab dealer, for regular oil changes.

These oils are specially developed from high-quality components
to meet the demands of extended service intervals (max.
18,000 miles (30,000 km) or 2 years). Saab and Mobil oils are
tested and approved in accordance with the GM standard for
long-life oils. Such gasoline engine oils are given the designation
GM-LL-A 025. The requirements are the same for diesel
oils, though these are given the designation GM-LL-B 025.


To ensure optimum engine performance, with regard to lubrication,
the ability to dissolve residues and the neutralisation
of combustion products in the oil, for a service
interval of 18,000 miles (30,000 km) or a maximum of
2 years, the engine oil used must fulfil GM-LL-A 025 (gasoline
engines) or GM-LL-B 025 (diesel engines).

Only oil of the above grades may be used.

Oils of the above grades contain the additives required for
the engine to function well. We advise against the use of
further additives.

The gasoline engine oil is unique in that not only does it fulfil the
stringent requirements demanded by API and ACEA standards
but also meets ACEA requirements for fuel-saving properties.

Viscosity:
The viscosity of oil is classified according to the SAE standard
(SAE: Society of Automobile Engineers). Nowadays, multigrade
oils are always used in cars. The properties of these oils facilitate
starting the car in cold weather but mean that the oil is also
sufficiently viscous to coat all moving parts under all operating
conditions.

Multigrade oils are graded with two viscosities, e.g. 0W-30,
where the 0W meets certain viscosity requirements at –22°F (–
30°C), while the 30 fulfils requirements at a temperature of
212°F (100°C).

The approved gasoline engine oil, GM-LL-A 025, has a viscosity
of SAE 0W-30.
My read on this is that any oil meeting GM-LL-A 025 will do. If that is 0W-40 or 0W-30, fine. I agree with others that the Mobil 1 oil in the US that meets this spec is rated 0W-40.

And yes, the manual does say "Mobile" and "you dealer"....
 

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Basically this is another redundant Oil Thread. The Bottom Line is do what your comfortable with. The Manual is a lot of CYA stuff for Saab/GM. There are a half dozen Oils I would not hesitate to use. Others will still swear if it's not Mobil 1 your risking your engine and warranty.
 

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soul05 said:
thanks for all the replies. at the time of my post, i had already purchased 6 quarts of castrol syntec because it was the only one that met the spec, but i think i will wait until after my 60k mile major service. for now i will get some cheaper synthetic oil to put in...like mobile1 or something. 6 quarts of my castrol was about 40 bucks. i got my oil filter for free. but i can get my oil changed at the shop for 50 bucks anyways. thanks again for all the information.

for anyone who wants info on how to change oil. use this link. i found this cardomain site about a year ago. i dont know who's it is, but it is very informative...with pictures too.
CASTROL IS NOT A "TRUE" SYNTHETIC.

Mobil1 & Amsoil are the only companies that make 100% tru synthetic oil.

google it and you will be suprised.
 

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Castrol's Syntec 0W30 is a "true" (where, in this case, "true" means a non-Group III base oil) synthetic. It is unlike the rest of the Syntec line...for one thing it's made in Germany. It's also the only grade of Syntec that meets the GMLLA025 spec.
 

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