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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm wondering what the torque specs are for the oil drain plug. I'm putting mine on right now but don't want to under or over torque it.. anyone?

Jerel

Danke!
 

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According to the Haynes manual, 19 lb-ft. According to a mechanic who definitely knows better than I do, when the threads have worn in a bit, about 23-24. Take your pick.

Some "quick" oilchange chains and dealer mechanics seem to overtighten it to the point you can hardly get it off, so if it is hard to get off, do not assume you have to tighten it the same way. IMO 19 lb-ft is probably more than you need, especially with a new plug and washer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah, the Viggen had this bolt TIGHT. Last oil change was from the dealer and the filter was on tight as well..

I totally messed up the bolt trying to get it off so I went and got a new one and had to get a filter wrench for the filter. Everything went back together good though. Thanks for the help on the amount of torque, it will definately be easier to take off next time.

They had some Fram quick oil change thing at Autozone when I was there, some crazy system that made it where you didn't have to remove the drain bolt to change the oil. Anyone used one of these? I'd think they wouldn't work well, anyone know anything about these? Thanks!

Jerel
 

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Yes! My neighbor bought one and I installed it for him. The replacement plug is a threaded adaptor and contains a spring loaded oriface that is activated when you screw in the other half of the adaptor in (which is connected to a short piece of hose). The hose then can be directed into a container, pan etc. When not in use there is a cap that goes over the plug to protect the plug and I assume to prevent leakage.

Does it work? Yes.

However....It is SLOW. I can watch him screw in the hose and begin the drain process. Then walk next door, jack my car up, drain it, replace the filter, refill the oil and put my stuff away and be over there just in time to hand him the filter wrench. It truely is that slow to drain.

Also - one other downside...the oriface it drains through is not very large (hence the slow draining process). It would seem like there is less likely any sediments (sludge or gunk) would be able to exit using this as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That was my main concern with this, the whole sludge factor on the T7 motor. If the sludge can't drain, i'm going to assume that it would/could mean bad things for the motie. I'll just stick with the old school way of doing it I guess. Also, when I bought the new drain plug, the guy gave me a teflon washer for it. I was a little scared to use it so I used the copper washer that was on the old one. Are teflon washers good?

Jerel
 

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The Teflon is but a coating over some metal, I do not know if this is a good idea or not. The old VWs used a crushable washer which was supposed to be used one time - in practice they were used 10- 20 times over - so there was always some weeping at the plug..

What I do know is that the vol-tech classes are not one tenth as good as they should be.
So very few are taught mechanics/physics/machine shop/English...I certainly was not.

Over tightening is maybe the number one problem in the field today..

I'd use a short wrench to tighten/untighten the plug; trouble is ,people use a long wrench or an impact ratchet (up to 50, maybe 150 pounds of force)..

That Autozone-plunger oil drain system seems to be a good idea; the oil can be changed piping hot(best way) with less fuss and ado..
There are many items to check during the oil-change service, so the time can be reduced during the actual drain process..
 

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I don't have a torque wrench, although I should buy one.

Being that I don't, my method is that I turn the plug by hand till I cant turn it anymore, then I give it a slight turn with the wrench. I have not had a problem and the plug always comes off nice and easy the next time, but is not loose.

With the filter I just turn it by hand till it's tight, then just give it a slight nudge with a strap wrench. The filter easily comes off by hand the next time. The only reason I use the strap wrench when putting it on is to make sure that oil on my hand/glove is not causing me to think it is tigher than it is, the wrench is more of a confirmation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
DougR said:
I don't have a torque wrench, although I should buy one.

Being that I don't, my method is that I turn the plug by hand till I cant turn it anymore, then I give it a slight turn with the wrench. I have not had a problem and the plug always comes off nice and easy the next time, but is not loose.

With the filter I just turn it by hand till it's tight, then just give it a slight nudge with a strap wrench. The filter easily comes off by hand the next time. The only reason I use the strap wrench when putting it on is to make sure that oil on my hand/glove is not causing me to think it is tigher than it is, the wrench is more of a confirmation.
There are the things I do as well. I went ahead and bought some cheapo torque wrench last night though, just to be sure I wasn't overtightening. I hate trying to loosen overtightened crap.

Jerel
 
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