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Sorry, I meant to say manual beam adjustment from inside the car, via the switch. Something we never got in North America. (So you can load up your car or truck, and light up the interior and rear-view mirror of the car in front of you.)

Number 4.

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That's from a 2001 9-5. There is also the electric motor that responds to the switch:

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But in NG9-3, there are two adjusting screws on the headlamp, not one. And I don't see any mention of an electric motor. to do the manual in-care adjusting. So I am wondering if the requirement went away, or there is something else going on.
 

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I've been searching for the answer for hours but I just can't find it, so likely this is a stupid question. I'm a beginner at audio systems, but as far as I could gather, the Premium 150 system in a 9-3 2007 has a 70W amp in the head unit that goes in four channels (front left, front right, rear left, rear right) to the rear amp. There, these four signals are amplified further by another 80W and then go out to seven channels for the seven speakers, right?

If so, how much wattage per channel (speaker) are we talking about, because I assume it's not 150W per speaker, but distributed, and somewhat proportionally to their sizes? Or is it just evenly? And I guess it's peak values we're talking about, not RMS. The closest I've gotten to an answer is that in one thread somewhere I saw that someone stated that it was about 12 W RMS for one of the speakers, so that would be correct assuming it's distributed evenly. From a quick survey, it seems they're always evenly distributed in aftermarket amps anyway? At the same time, the channels are supposed to be "discrete sources of power" so it's not like they just share the effect "pool" as needed.

And these numbers are all assuming 4 Ohms I take it?
 

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Nope. 70W, 150W etc are just salesmen talk. They are referring only what wattage speakers can handle without damage. 150W speaker do not exist, Watts are (amplifier) power.

Typical speaker gives 85-95dB/1 Watt.
 

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Nope. 70W, 150W etc are just salesmen talk. They are referring only what wattage speakers can handle without damage. 150W speaker do not exist, Watts are (amplifier) power.

Typical speaker gives 85-95dB/1 Watt.
You mean in that it's peak watts and not RMS, or is it not even that but more of a frauduluous figure? I wanted to figure out whether getting an extra amp or changing the existing one or even the head unit and some seem to be recommending would improve anything, so compare salesman talk units to salesman talk units... I saw in another thread someone saying it's 4x70W (salesman talk units!) out of the head unit, which would imply that it's indeed per channel so in the end, in which case there'd be 150W available per speaker so isn't that actually relatively powerful for a car system? A head unit from Pioneer at 200 Euros puts out 4x50W, and that's also peak I believe. Maybe it has better technology behind it, but on paper it wouldn't make sense to change head unit anyway, nor add an amp for the regular speakers if my assumptions here are correct. The ever so popular Infinity 3022 3.5" are rated at 75W, but maybe the larger ones in the door could benefit slightly, speakers of that size seem to be at e.g. 120 WRMS or so and I heard a rule of thumb that one should aim for driving them with 1.5-2 times their RMS, but they seem to be at 2 ohms so that means they'd get 300W since most of the other speakers are at 4 ohms so I'd hope the 150W "salesman rating" is for 4 ohms? Or in the worst case, is the 150W rating referring to having no load at all?
 

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You mean in that it's peak watts and not RMS, or is it not even that but more of a frauduluous figure?
What are you trying to do?

The speakers used in these cars are not the finest. I have made the sound better in three different Saabs by replacing the dash corner speakers. Unfortunately aftermarket 3.5" speakers vary in quality a lot as well. I would recommend Boston Acoustics, but good luck finding any.
 

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FWIW the overwhelming majority, if not every speaker rating is given in peak watts. Its like advertising crank HP, more pizazz to catch the eye.
 
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What are you trying to do?

The speakers used in these cars are not the finest. I have made the sound better in three different Saabs by replacing the dash corner speakers. Unfortunately aftermarket 3.5" speakers vary in quality a lot as well. I would recommend Boston Acoustics, but good luck finding any.
I'm just planning how I can improve the sound a bit, because all in all it truly does suck! I've already ordered 3032CFX (which are along with Boston Acoustics what's everybody seem to be raving about) for the dash as swapping those dash speakers is allegedly the biggest return on investment initially. After that, I've heard various suggestions, including the amp upgrading, hence why I started digging into that as well.
 

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Speakers DO NOT create any power, so NO watts.
Speaker watts are ONLY peak power what they can handle without damaging permanently.
 

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I'm just planning how I can improve the sound a bit, because all in all it truly does suck! I've already ordered 3032CFX (which are along with Boston Acoustics what's everybody seem to be raving about) for the dash as swapping those dash speakers is allegedly the biggest return on investment initially. After that, I've heard various suggestions, including the amp upgrading, hence why I started digging into that as well.
I think the speakers will definitely help. I have a 2004 CV with the most deluxe system, and I have replaced the corner speakers but they are still not the greatest. I find that the door bass speakers are not too bad, and if your system has the subwoofer, that works okay.

One thing, and I don't have the specifications so I cannot prove it, I think that the factory system does not provide a "flat" signal, I suspect that it boosts the treble because the dash speakers have poor response. It may also make other changes to "equalize" the sound, however the equalization will be based on the car's acoustics as well as making the not-so-great speakers sound better.

One other thing I will add, an aftermarket head unit that promises more than maybe 10W per channel is probably more fantasy than science fiction.

So in terms of your current system, try replacing the corner speakers, and maybe disconnect or remove the centre speaker. Also listen carefully for buzzing from any of the other speakers, I find that the human voice, particularly male, turned up loud will really show you speakers with problems like a bad surround or bad voice coil.

After you have good replacement dash speakers, and all the other speakers test out good, what can you do?

If you don't have a subwoofer, you could try to adapt the factory system from a car that has that system, I don't know how complicated that would be.

Or you could go completely aftermarket, which would, in my opinion, require a good-quality head unit (no eBay 30 euro specials), a quality multi-channel amp, and possibly new door speakers. But then the sound is under your control, with no funny signals coming from your factory components. However, that's going to be a lot of work and expense.
 

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This is a stupid question because I simply can't figure out the search terms to find it, because I am sure it has been discussed.

How well do the Dorman ACC buttons work? Do they make a nice replacement for the factory buttons, or do they wear and chip like the factory ones?
 

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I bought the Doorman ACC buttons a long time ago, however I've only had them on since taking apart my center dash to address other issues over this past summer. They look great, illuminate appropriately, & are a very cheap replacement. I think the other "Saab" branded buttons go for triple the price...with how they have worked & ease of installation I'd go with these in an instant. If only they made some replacement buttons for the radio/SID as well.
 

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I got mine for $15 - $20. Rockauto has it for $23 currently. I see it for $240 on saabusaparts (marked down from $267) which is clearly absurd. When I was looking the typical saab parts sites had it for ~$75 - $85 which is still absurd IMO for a few bucks worth of plastic. Too many of these Saab sites have an insane markup & it really shows when comparing these asinine parts.
 

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Just a couple of pics for reference at night time. First pic is with my typical dimmer setting:


Second pic with max illumination to rule out any guesswork when comparing:


Buttons other than ACC are all OEM
 

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Someone is selling a set brand new, but I see I can get for less money from RockAuto in the US (well, plus shipping and duty) and I would not have to drive an hour to Newmarket. Good to know that they are an alternative when all the ACC buttons turn white.
 
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