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It will work.
Only $20! Nice grab.
Well, I installed the ECU and used security access to add it. That worked fine. Car started okay.

I noticed the Check Engine light was on, and erased it. Check Engine light never reappeared.

Nevertheless, car drove oddly, with a lot of surging when accelerating, with the turbo gauge bouncing around.

My old-time ODB II reader reports:
P0325
P1351
P1352
P1353
P1354

(This, despite the fact that Check Engine isn't on.)

Car is not driveable on the highway, it's very slow and smells bad.

Is this an ECU fault, or do I have to do SPS programming? As I said, part number is 55565020 out of a facelifted 9-3. It's been put in a 2004 Aero. Obviously it is not usable as is.

Note 1: the only other thing I did was pull the air filter to inspect. This meant unplugging and replugging the sensor in the filter box outlet pipe.

Note 2: Who designed the connectors to the ECU? They were frozen solid. I had to do prying with a screwdriver to get them loose, and the metal bail clip on the RH connector popped loose and won't go properly back in place (I sort of squeezed it back on). The connector was very reluctant to slide in and out even when the ECU wasn't there. I moved it back and forth and cleaned up crud but both are still cruddy and stick at each end. Just releasing the metal clip and pulling up on it, or trying to attach the connector by moving the metal clip forward and down, is much more likely to unseat the clip than to move anything. Ugh.
 

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Well, I installed the ECU and used security access to add it. That worked fine. Car started okay.

I noticed the Check Engine light was on, and erased it. Check Engine light never reappeared.

Nevertheless, car drove oddly, with a lot of surging when accelerating, with the turbo gauge bouncing around.

My old-time ODB II reader reports:
P0325
P1351
P1352
P1353
P1354

(This, despite the fact that Check Engine isn't on.)

Car is not driveable on the highway, it's very slow and smells bad.

Is this an ECU fault, or do I have to do SPS programming? As I said, part number is 55565020 out of a facelifted 9-3. It's been put in a 2004 Aero. Obviously it is not usable as is.

Note 1: the only other thing I did was pull the air filter to inspect. This meant unplugging and replugging the sensor in the filter box outlet pipe.

Note 2: Who designed the connectors to the ECU? They were frozen solid. I had to do prying with a screwdriver to get them loose, and the metal bail clip on the RH connector popped loose and won't go properly back in place (I sort of squeezed it back on). The connector was very reluctant to slide in and out even when the ECU wasn't there. I moved it back and forth and cleaned up crud but both are still cruddy and stick at each end. Just releasing the metal clip and pulling up on it, or trying to attach the connector by moving the metal clip forward and down, is much more likely to unseat the clip than to move anything. Ugh.
And I erased the codes a few times in a 20 minute drive. They keep coming back. The P0325 is the quickest to return; the P1354 is the slowest.
 

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And to add another question while I wait for ECU enlightenment:

I have on hand full synthetic 0W-40 and 5W-40 oil. None of it is Dexos, all of it is ACEA A3/B3/B4 rating with various GM LL, BMW, Mercedes, VW certifications.

I have a 2004 2.0T. It's a convertible, so obviously I don't plan to drive it extensively in cold weather, although it will be insured through the winter and is in theory driveable if my other Saab gets a conniption.

I change the oil annually; last thing in fall. Car gets less than 10,000 km use in a year. SID reports oil quality still in the 70% range at the end of summer.

My plan is to use 5W-40 synthetic for the change. However, I could go and find some 0W-30 or 5W-30 full synthetic on sale. Should I bother, or just use the 5W-40? That is my question that's too stupid to ask.

(I use 0W-40 in my 9-5 for winter; probably 5W-40 in summer. I have purchased various brands when they go on sale at Canadian Tire for under $30 for 5L jugs.)
 

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Speaking of my ECU problem, it's been discussed before. The consensus seems to be "wrong ECU version"?


Mimmi said the junkyard ECU would work. Maybe SPS program it?
 

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Tried SPS, but of course Tech II hangs in V.148 and V.44 goes "whaa? no communication".

Put back old ECU, car runs fine. Did not add the ECU, it seems to work, and Tech II inconveniently forgot it had security access, and I didn't want to go through getting the laptop and going through the rigamarole. No errors when checking all DTCs, so I assume it's okay.

Whether the junkyard ECU is toast, or just the wrong software version, I don't know. I will talk to my Saab mechanic. Maybe ECU is good and he can use, so I get some money for it....
 

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Getting the car level....

Saab 9-3 2006 Auto....

Bit of a home mechanic and driveway is a little slopey.......what reference points in the car do you use to get it level so you can check oil levels accurately?! I have the engine bay to help on the horizontal but not sure on the longitudinal one! My drivers cill and the running board are quite a bit off set from each other.......

Cheers,

M
 

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Getting the car level....

Saab 9-3 2006 Auto....

Bit of a home mechanic and driveway is a little slopey.......what reference points in the car do you use to get it level so you can check oil levels accurately?! I have the engine bay to help on the horizontal but not sure on the longitudinal one! My drivers cill and the running board are quite a bit off set from each other.......

Cheers,

M
It doesn't need to be perfectly level, just reference the same parking spot every time once you establish what the correct fill is. If you're really on a serious slope in the driveway you can check it in a store parking lot or something like that.
 

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Here's a probably dumb question but I'm just curious. Behind the rear bumper (Saab 9-3 SC 2007) there's a small ventilation grid or something, and it has these rubber patches blocking its holes. Is it for ventilation or what? Can't find it in the WIS or anywhere.
Grille Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle
 

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Oh damn, did it break or did you remove it for some reason?
My muffler back box fell off the car about two hours from home, so I pulled off, put it in the boot, and then continued home. During the drive I melted, among other things, the rear bumper cover, left tail lamp assembly, the parking sensors, and that vent.

Tire Automotive tail & brake light Wheel Vehicle Car


This probably could have been avoided had I not driven 200km/h the entire rest of the way with the muffler off, as my wife likes to remind me. But it sounded surprisingly decent and I wanted to be home already.

(Each year I get older, but apparently not smarter! 🍻)
 

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Here in North America we don't get manual headlight beam adjustments. I was wondering how the beam adjustment would have worked on NG9-3 with the two adjustment screws. Looking in EPC, there is no headlight "with beam adjustment". So did that requirement/ability get discontinued around the world?
 

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