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9-3X is a slightly raised version of 9-3 sportcombi coated with plastic parts.
Gasoline versions do have 4 wheel drive, but diesel versions are front wheel drive only.
 

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Is there a cost-effective package that contains all 4 engine/trans mounts? I don't necessarily need OEM. I can feel my engine moving around more when I shift/drive/coast and at 134k miles, I'm probably due to replace them all...
 

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Engine mounts oe is the way to go..wouldn't dream of going aftermarket or cheap on such important mounts..
 

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hi new to site I have an 08 9-3 convertible. I drop top manually but now can't lock roof because place where tool goes to turn has rounded out and can't be turned. Any suggestions. Thanks
 

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hi new to site I have an 08 9-3 convertible. I drop top manually but now can't lock roof because place where tool goes to turn has rounded out and can't be turned. Any suggestions. Thanks
Well, you can pull (well, rip, really) down the foam trim. This damages the trim, but it might be reglued. Then you can get at the locking plate with an adjustable wrench.
 

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My stupid question: how does water get into the hollow parts of the CV front and middle side rail weatherstripping? And how is it supposed to drain?

Right now, if I drop the top after rain, I can get quite a nice stream of water coming out of the weatherstrip.

Weatherstrip is otherwise okay, they are replacement pieces. I have not done the windshield/A pillar weatherstrip.
 

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Well, you can pull (well, rip, really) down the foam trim. This damages the trim, but it might be reglued. Then you can get at the locking plate with an adjustable wrench.
Thanks I put in a big flat head screwdriver which for the time being is working to lock and unlock. I don't lock it often except for the highway which hardly occurs. I'll try your fix when this stops working. Thanks again.
 

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Come to think of it, the scenario I was thinking about was "top locked to windshield and lock won't turn".

If you have the top loose/down, you can easily remove the front trim and foam piece non-destructively. Then leave the mechanism open.

It's possible to take out the linkage and replace it, but there are captive nuts that go loose in the top when you do this. (My car had this scenario: the top couldn't be unlocked manually, as the hole was stripped out. As was the top of the convertible I got parts from--that's where I did the foam trim removal by force.)
 

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Ok, here's another. I'm trying to figure out if I need new engine mounts. Engine movement while accelerating and such should be an indicator, right? Any good ways to measure that?
 

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Who knew that the hood (bonnet) on these cars is aluminium?

Not me! First, the speaker I put on the hood would not stick, then when I was using the hood for leverage on a pair of pliers it dented. :p

On the one hand, I have a replacement hood because this one was damaged by popping open at 50 km/h. On the other hand, I was thinking it would rust where the hood had buckled and the paint had cracked, but I guess not!
 

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I knew after the hail hit it so hard it rippled.
 

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2004 Saab 9-3 Aero Cabrio
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04 Aero. Headlight switch assembly in the dash. Switch functions normally, but the light inside is burned out so it does not illuminate with the rest of the dash lights. I've taken many a module apart over the years to replace / resolder bulbs to PCBs. Any idea how to get this freakin' thing open? It seems like the headlight wheel should pull out of the front, and I've tried to the extent I'm afraid I'll chowder up the face of the switch. What's the trick? Anyone been successful in opening one of these in such a way that reassembly is still possible?
 

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Get and install a working headlight switch from the junkyard, and then see if you can figure out how to take apart your switch?
 

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Pry switch out and you will see 2 bulb holders. Upper is for light switch and lower is for fog light switch(s).
 

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Increased safety standards I imagine. That structure takes up room (and adds weight).
 
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