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I have a stupid question regarding the fuel level sender in a 2010 9-3. I got a whole new fuel pump assembly in the mail yesterday, and I noticed that gravity is not enough to make the fuel sender drop. As in, I can pull the fuel sender up, and it will just stick there. This, to me, seems quite odd and doesn't make sense functionally.

Is that how a new fuel sender is supposed to be? Or have I got myself a dud I need to send back?

Edit: I decided to take one more look at it with a less exhausted mind this morning. Two of the clips that hold the metal rod to the piece that travels along the resistor had popped off. Put those back on and now it works exactly as I expected it to.
 

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In the driver door opening, there's a VIN plate that has:
11 - 6 - 2 - 1 - 6 - 3
If this is suspension codes, it means I have code 11 front, code 6 back springs, code 6 front struts, code 3 back shocks.

Am I correct?
 

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First stupid question of the day: on 2004 Aero CV with Level 2 brakes (16" alloy rims fit okay), can I use 9-5 spare tire/wheel? The rim looks different design (no holes!) and tire is 115/70 R16.

The 9-3 spare is 125/85 R16. Obviously bigger and higher load capacity.

Unfortunately I found that my 9-3 spare was flat and the valve is leaking. Since the rim is in bad shape from sitting in water that collected several times in the spare tire well, it's not worth fixing. I happen to have a spare 9-5 spare, so that's what I put in.

(I am saving the 115/70 R15 spare wheel for Mimmi when he comes to visit with all kinds of good stuff from Europe, he can take this home and display it. :LOL: )
 

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Stupid question 2, how can I change lighting to Alternative 2? There is no option for changing under Lighting. I tried remove and add UEC, but my headlight options caused add to fail with "Wrong options selected". I do want the side markers lit. I chose that (US/CA) option. I tried CA, US, and EU as market. None worked.

Is there somewhere else I have to go in Tech II? Or some other combination of options? Or is it just going to refuse, because it knows it's a CA market car?
 

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Stupid question 3. Owner's manual states recommended octane for B207 as 90 AON, regardless of variant. WIS states RON 95 for lower HP, RON 98 for B207R.

I have B207R. I put in 91 AON. That is the default high-octane fuel here. (87, 89, 91 are usual three choices at the pump.)

Is B207R set up for 90 AON?

(According to some online info, 95 RON ~ 91 AON; 98 RON ~ 93 AON.)
 

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Formerly had 900s have a black 2005 9-3 ARC auto at present
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Here is a quick dumb question... how does one tell exactly what motor is in ones 9-3? Is it in the vin number? Is it on the body plate? Is it part of the engine number or stamped on the block?

Anything interesting on my body plates?

274026
 

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Ed:
1: Yes you can use 9-5 spare in your 9-3.
2: You need to change CA to EU in BCM, REC, UEC and maybe ICM and after that you can change lights to alt 2.
3: You can use, but you miss a bit of power (you can not notice this in normal cruising). Trionic will adapt in lower octane.
 

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Saabastian93: VIN shows engine code in 8th digit (S). S means B207L.
What I see in your (partial) VIN is:
Saab 9-3 sedan (4d) MY 2005 with B207L and 5 speed manual gearbox.
 

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Formerly had 900s have a black 2005 9-3 ARC auto at present
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Thanks Mimmi, it is actually 5 speed auto

I just realised I have Saab EPC so I put the vin in it... this is what it came up with. So, is the B207L motor the 210hp?

274029
 

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B207L is 175hp.
 

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Ed:
1: Yes you can use 9-5 spare in your 9-3.
2: You need to change CA to EU in BCM, REC, UEC and maybe ICM and after that you can change lights to alt 2.
3: You can use, but you miss a bit of power (you can not notice this in normal cruising). Trionic will adapt in lower octane.
Thanks. At least I know that if I have to use the spare, I won't go down in flames like a Zeppelin hit by incendiary fire.

I wonder what other functions might change on the car if I set everything to EU. Anything you noted on your convertible? I assume you changed that to EU market.

For power, this car is so easy to drive, I upshift before 1500 RPM driving in the city. But if I floor it in first, it doesn't seem that fast. Floor it in second, and I am going much too fast instantly! I know WIS only talks about torque limitation in reverse; it 'feels' to me like first is also limited.

I am also watching the knock and misfire counters. I have swapped around my butterscotch coils. Actually, they seem to be working well since I cleaned up the rubber boots. The misfires and knocks were pretty evenly distributed across all 4 cylinders--unlike before, when 1 and 4 had much higher counts than 2 and 3. (So I swapped 1 and 2, and 3 and 4, to see what happens.) I have now added a bit of dielectric grease to the boots to keep out moisture.
 

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I made those mods but I did not remove side markers, they will be ON when I use lights (yes they are legal here).
I have now pos 0 all OFF, pos 1 front lights, side lights and taillights ON and pos 2 pos 1 + headlights ON.
I also changed service program to EU and programmed radio to EU version.
I programmed CL to open all in first, added lock actuator to fuel flap and added siren to alarm system.
 

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My stupid question........I recently bought a 2007 9-3 with 206000 miles on it. It was parked for over a year and it had the steering malfunction error and the steering wheel was locked. I bought it ($700.00) and had it towed to my house ($200) to work on. I also bought a Tech2 ($300) for the diagnostic capabilities. I removed the starter relay and jumped across it to try to start the engine. The engine turned over nicely but would not start. I pulled the coil packs and plugs on all cylinders. Excellent spark and fuel on each cylinder. I then did a compression check and had 0 psi on every cylinder. I was thinking that the timing was really off. I took the timing cover off and noticed that one of the plastic timing chain retainers was broken. Fearing the worst, I removed the head and looked for potential damage. 6 of the intake valves were bent and 3 of the pistons had small marks where the valves were hitting them. I removed the valves and seals and just got the new intake and exhaust valves delivered this afternoon along with new valve seals, all gaskets and new timing components ($318). I currently have a total of $1218 into the car (plus the Tech2) and was going to rebuild the head tomorrow but was wondering if I should also replace the piston and rings. I don't want to put a lot of money into the car which has a lot of miles on it. I didn't notice any play in the crankshaft when manually turning it and the pistons seem to be in good shape (visual inspection). I have not replaced the pistons on a Saab before. I have rebuilt Subaru boxer engines and VW engines, but not Saab. Any advice on whether to replace the pistons/rings with an engine that has 206k miles on it would be appreciated. BTW - the turbo is in very good condition with no play on the spindle and clean airways and the body and all glass is in very good condition.
 

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Always a risk with dinged pistons. Maybe they hold up, maybe no. I'd make sure there are no sharp edges as that will create hotspots.
 
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