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Saab says 2.6h.
Add some time for inexperience and be sure to have a new set of bolt studs, and the special partially crushed lock nuts to reattach the downpipe. Goober the studs up with some aluminum anti-seize. You can get the studs with the nuts from genuinesaab.com


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Get the WIS if you don’t already have it. It’ll take you through it step by step. It’s not hard.


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Thanks, I do have access to WIS. I'm trying not to stress the engine too much as I have no idea how much maintenance was done by the previous 3 owners (only issue is an annoying tap-tap noise at startup). There isn't much to gain going from Stage 0 to Stage 1 (VTuner). But if I was ever going to replace the turbo I would go straight to Stage 1.
 

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Jack stands in the rear?

I’m still confused on jack points in the rear. I need to replace the rear shock and bracket. I have the car lifted using the jack pads in front of the rear wheels but unsure on the best place for jack stands.

WIS says there should be a tow bar mount on either side of the spare wheel well. In the one photo I attached - is Point A a solid place? Or is it point B?



Is there any other recommended points for setting a jack stand?

Usually I have access to a four post lift and this isn’t an issue. Thanks for any pointers.


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Headlights: Is there any way to rig the switch (or whatever) to make it so one position of the light switch does not operate the headlights? I am tired of running down the (new) battery with the ignition on. Besides I am going to install some LED strips for daytime running lights so I don't want the headlights on too.
 

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B208R engine. When I pull it out on warm(er) days after a cold spell (like well below freezing), the car seems to misfire under any sort of load. After the engine is warmed up, that goes away, at least mostly.

I pulled the coil packs today and cleaned up the rubber boots. They seemed a bit sweaty with some kind of moisture. I did not see any obvious carbon tracks, though.

Would it make sense to put some dielectric grease in the boots? I didn't, as I the only thing I found was the blister pack for the grease, and not the tube itself.

Note, plugs are new NGK PFR6T, gapped and installed in November or December.
 

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Headlights: Is there any way to rig the switch (or whatever) to make it so one position of the light switch does not operate the headlights? I am tired of running down the (new) battery with the ignition on. Besides I am going to install some LED strips for daytime running lights so I don't want the headlights on too.
Not sure what you are asking. You want to control the headlights to turn them off? Sure, use your tech2 and update the CIM.
 

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Headlights: Is there any way to rig the switch (or whatever) to make it so one position of the light switch does not operate the headlights? I am tired of running down the (new) battery with the ignition on. Besides I am going to install some LED strips for daytime running lights so I don't want the headlights on too.
Yes, but you need TECH2 to alter headlight operation.
 

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B208R engine. When I pull it out on warm(er) days after a cold spell (like well below freezing), the car seems to misfire under any sort of load. After the engine is warmed up, that goes away, at least mostly.

I pulled the coil packs today and cleaned up the rubber boots. They seemed a bit sweaty with some kind of moisture. I did not see any obvious carbon tracks, though.

Would it make sense to put some dielectric grease in the boots? I didn't, as I the only thing I found was the blister pack for the grease, and not the tube itself.

Note, plugs are new NGK PFR6T, gapped and installed in November or December.
Monitor live data with TECH2. You will see misfire counts etc.
 

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I want to do a stage 3 to my 04 93 aero.
What I am unsure about is the sections of the exhaust that I need to change. Seems stupid to have a 3" DP into the existing system. So I know what a sport cat is, and having a 200 cell for MOT purposes.
From this point onwards I don't know enough.. Do I need a backbox or can I go straight through, do I need anythong else?

I have a seen a DP on ebay for 190quid from Poland, this seems ridiculous compared to some. It is Decat so that effects the price but could I buy one and then connect the cat in line at the end without any welding etc.
It looks like this
272370
 

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Warmer exhaust gases needs larger space for same pressure loss as cooler exhaust gases.
Ng9-3 has lousy downpipe and if you change it bigger with better corners, you have much better gain than with back box.
 

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B208R engine. When I pull it out on warm(er) days after a cold spell (like well below freezing), the car seems to misfire under any sort of load. After the engine is warmed up, that goes away, at least mostly.

I pulled the coil packs today and cleaned up the rubber boots. They seemed a bit sweaty with some kind of moisture. I did not see any obvious carbon tracks, though.

Would it make sense to put some dielectric grease in the boots? I didn't, as I the only thing I found was the blister pack for the grease, and not the tube itself.

Note, plugs are new NGK PFR6T, gapped and installed in November or December.
Car ran 100% fine in a test run after the boots were cleaned. Not the same conditions as the trouble, though. I think I'll reset the misfire counters (surely that's possible on this car, same as on a T7) and see what happens.
 

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I have an '05 9-3. What is the socket size for the harmonic balancer bolt / crank case bolt? I'm about to replace the crank case oil seal and I can't seem to find the information anywhere and Haynes is no help. Thank you!
 

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Two stupid questions:
  1. The 2004 manual suggests that, in addition to setting seat heat to Auto in the profiler, the level of heat can be controlled. It is not very specific on how to do that. I tried setting the seat heat while in the profiler section, but I'm not sure if it's working properly or simply coincidence. (I like seat heat, when required, to be the lowest level. Easy enough to set in a 9-5, and independent of any climate settings.)
  2. Would using 49mm offest OG9-3/9-5 rims cause any issues on an NG9-3, other than the wheels looking a bit recessed in the fenderwell?
 

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Unsure on 1
2 is no issue
 

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2007 Saab 9-3 Aero Sportcombi
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Here's my question I think is too stupid to ask. I've had issues with the driver's window switch pack and my friend's tech 2 tool gave a code for it. So I know it needs replacing. I picked up a switch off a parts car. Below is the picture. The parts numbers aren't the same, but they both appear to have pinch protection. So, are they compatible?

The bottom one is the one out of my 2007, the top out of the 2005 parts car.
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