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Questions you think are too stupid to ask!

43K views 45 replies 17 participants last post by  Mimmi 
#1 ·
Borrowing this great thread from the c900 forum. We all have them...at least I know I do :roll:

SO...I'll start! I'm trying to understand this bit of intake plumbing. Clearly, the line with the short branch is a coolant line, but it connects to a line that stubs into the intake tube going to the turbo and goes up to the throttle body. What is that, how does it keep the coolant out of the incoming air and how exactly does it work?
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#2 ·
PCV breather heater. The hose is "air" and inside is a steel coolant pipe. Yours is a slightly different design to the one I'm familiar with. Anyway, the small diameter line is coolant and the large diameter hose carries crankcase fumes. The idea is to prevent icing of the PCV system.
 
#3 ·
Throttle body pre-heating hoses. There are passages (cast into the aluminum throttle body) that the hoses connect to.

The system acts as a pre-heater for cold incoming combustion air - during initial start-up in cold weather conditions.

The hose that appears to connect to the turbocharger inlet duct is a double wall design. The coolant flows out of the throttle body pre-heater and into that hose. Once it enters the hose it flows down through the inner tube and exits at the bottom (rejoining the main system with the turbo cooling water outlet).

NOTE:

The internal throttle body passages are cast in such a way that they run quite close to the ID of the throat. The casting wall can fail - allowing coolant to be injected into the incoming combustion air stream.

Bear this in mind if you ever have a loss of coolant that cannot be located. Also if you show white smoke/water vapor at the tail pipe but the H/G tests okay.
 
#4 ·
Actually not, although it connects to the throttle body it is to prevent icing of the PCV system in very cold weather.

My 1978 SAAB 99 iced its PCV system and blew out the sump gasket behind the flywheel. It also,iced its throttle but that's another story.

My 1984 900T iced its PCV system regularly causing stall outs.

My 9000 never iced up, either one and both had this nifty PCV heater.
 
#5 ·
Ah...that makes sense. Thanks, gents! Another cool little bit of engineering from those SaabWerks pencil pushers.
 
#6 ·
OK, so another stupid question...

I read a remove and replace tutorial on the saab9000.com site and I see where there is a drain plug for the transmission (manual). What I don't see is where do you fill it? The location of the plug and the orientation of it makes me think that the drain is not where you fill :confused: Unless you can tip the car over onto its side :)
 
#7 · (Edited)
Is that on the 97? Was the original transmission changed out with an older unit?

Reason I ask, there should be a drain plug on later models but the early 9000's didn't come with one.

A modification procedure:

Adding A Drain Hole And Plug To A 9000 Manual Transmission
Early 9000s did not have a drain to enable you to change the transmission lubricant. We have been adding a drain to them and changing the fluid in the transmission every 30,000 miles at each major service. When changing the fluid the first time, we add the drain and then refill the gearbox and drive for a bit to flush the tranny and then drain it and refill once again.
We use a 1/8" pipe thread plug. The plug must be "fitted" to the hole you drill. Use a 21/64" drill bit to drill the hole. Then do not use the tap like you would a normal tap. Pipe threads taper. You will need to run the tap in until the threads reach the thickness of the case wall then test with the plug. You want to tap the hole until the plug gets tight when a bit more than half its threads are in the tranny. As you change the fluid each time and retighten the plug, it will gradually go deeper into the case. You don't need a lot of torque for the plug to seal. If you use the 1/8" plug enough that it reaches the end of the plug, you can re-drill the hole to accept a 1/4" pipe thread plug. The following pictures give the location we use.

Images and additional info:

http://townsendimports.com/Web/transmission_folder/9kdrainplughole.htm


If it is a newer model the plugs (drain, check & fill) are located as below:


 
#8 ·
No no...this is the original transmission. I saw the drain plug add link and also saw the later style transmission drain on another site. Just never saw anything about where you would would put oil back in. The location of the drain - factory and add-on - looks too low in the box to use as a fill hole. I could be wrong...certainly wouldn't be the first time! Hence the "stupid question" part :lol:
 
#9 ·
There might be an overlap in our responses. The image above shows the location of the fill plug and the level check plug - as well as the drain plug.

Also, I skimmed and misread your original question - thought you were asking how to drain (not fill). Sorry.
 
#13 ·
That is an open (for more than 2 seconds) in the evap canister control valve circuit.



I could provide the complete diagnostic but what the whole procedure boils down to is:

Check the wiring to and at the valve.

Look for a loose connector at the valve or a damaged wire.

Unlike newer vehicles, Saab 9000's did not have any vacuum sensing devices to provide feedback as to whether the evaporative emission system was actually functioning properly. The only components in the system (other than hoses and fittings) are the evap canister, it's purge valve and the purge valve control wiring.

Verification of proper operation (of the evap sysytem) was/is totally dependent on the O2 sensors.

The theory was; if the purge valve was not operating as expected, it would create an imbalance in the combustion fuel/air ratio. This in turn, would skew the expected O2 content in the exhaust stream. The ECM would be aware that everything else (that could effect O2 content) was operating correctly and then identify a purge valve malfunction as the culprit.


Somehow, Saab was able to convince the EPA that this design was suffcient to monitor the entire evaporative emissions system.

Here is the entire list of faults associated with the evap sysytem:

P0443: All-embracing DTC.
P0444: Open circuit for more than 2 seconds.
P0445: Short circuit to ground for more than 2 seconds.
 
#14 ·
Alright, I have a somewhat dumb question. What's the deal with these transmissions? At typically how much torque do they tend to blow at? I noticed most of the time it's the differential literally exploding inside the casing. Do the cs/cse/aero gearboxes have different tolerances? My aero had a blown gearbox when I bought it, and I swapped in a FM57 "001" into it. My engine cranks out roughly 330lb-ft of torque, the transmission had a proper fluid change and has about 130,000 miles on it. How long should I expect it to last under this power? It does have an upgraded sachs clutch by the way. I do tend to hit boost pretty often, I don't exactly go WOT since ~85% will suffice most of the time. I won't lie I have had my fair share of wheel spin and bouncing off the rev limiter, but I don't do it often. What I liked about my previous cars is that the gearboxes were known to hold their own, so I was able to confidently get into power, but now I always have the doubt in my head and it's really no fun. Not to mention there aren't any cost effective upgrades for these cars. So anyways, where exactly am I at, and what can I expect?
 
#16 ·
Here is my dumb question. I just bought a '96 CSE Turbo (yesterday). On the way home last night, my driver's side brake light went out. I pulled both rear clusters this evening to check the bulbs. They all looked fine. I did some bulb swapping anyway. I'm guessing it just wasn't seated properly because now I have both brake lights.

In the process of my testing, I noticed that #3 - Rear Light (photo for reference) - on both sides didn't turn on at any time.


20140809_011116652_iOS by Letter_T, on Flickr

Here's my dumb question, are those night time running lights? or are they reverse lights?

It was just me and my 3 boys (I had them press on the brake pedal for me), so I didn't want to engage reverse to test and my wife is in no mood to assist. :lol:

I'm sure I'll figure it out. Thanks!
 
#17 ·
On the trim panel along the bottom of the hatch on the rt side is the ONE reverse light. On the right side is ONE fog light--it's switch is located above the dash light dimmer knob. The other switch there is for the front fog lights.

#3 should be your rear running lights turned on by the headlight switch/separate from the rear light/brake light bulb #2
 
#18 ·
Thanks! I figured they were running lights. Both bulbs look good, but they don't turn on. :confused: I'll have to work on that later.

I have a passenger seat stuck with the seat way back now. The adjustment "knob" is broken and I'm not sure what to trigger to get it to move forward again. :lol:

Time to do more forum digging.

Thanks again for the reply!
 
#19 · (Edited)
Saab 9000 cse aero seats conversion

Hi,

I recently changed my manual adjustable seats into the Aero seats.

I thought it was plug and play, since everything looked like it was prewired, but there is an issue, the Aero seats can only be operated when the doors are open. Something which bothers me.

Does anyone know why they can't be operated when the doors are closed, with and without the ignition on?

I have checked the relays under the seats they seem to be fine and all the fuse are too.

I read somewhere that the Aero models came with some other kind of electrical seat wiring than the other models, and are independent, in the sense that they can operate without ignition on and the doors closed.



Pictures from the Aero wiring under the seats:
Looks like plug and play.






Let me know.
 
#20 ·
I swapped my seats for aero seats--plug n' play. No issues, but mines a cse and already had electric seats.

All electric seats work with the door open and the ignition off. That's so I can move the seat back after my wife's driven the car and not bang my farking knees! :cheesy::cheesy:

What year is your 9K and what year did the seats come from? Maybe that's where the problem lies...
 
#25 ·
I have a passenger seat stuck with the seat way back now. The adjustment "knob" is broken and I'm not sure what to trigger to get it to move forward again. :lol:

Time to do more forum digging.



Even with the seat all the down there is usually just enough room to access the control wiring. The blue & blue/white pair supply the motor which drives the seat bottom forward and aft. I don't remember which wire is for which direction.


Just cut one of them and apply 12VDC. If it moves forward - good. If it moves back, cut the other wire and apply power - it will go forward.
 
#26 ·
Even with the seat all the down there is usually just enough room to access the control wiring. The blue & blue/white pair supply the motor which drives the seat bottom forward and aft. I don't remember which wire is for which direction.


Just cut one of them and apply 12VDC. If it moves forward - good. If it moves back, cut the other wire and apply power - it will go forward.
I got lucky. There's a white tab that I was able to grab with a pair of needle nose pliers. I was able to wiggle it to make the proper connection and get the seat to move forward. The switch is broken off completely, so at least not, no one can bump it on accident and move the seat. :lol:

Just one more piece I'll have to add to the "order it in the future list."
 
#28 ·
That whirring noise.....

Sensor, ACC.
It senses the temperature of the cabin by sucking the air across a diode or thermistor ( can't remember which ). It runs during travel and also a few minutes after you have switched off everything. If you can hear it, it prob. needs cleaning/lubricating/replacing; lots of posting on this topic.
 
#29 ·
Replaced the transmission mount bushing with the two piece poly from Pro-Parts Sweden.
http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/39955/Transmission-Mount-Polyurethane-62345312PU/

It seemed like the diameter of the new bushing was too big to fit inside the metal shell of the old bushing. (After the hell of doing the rear suspension bushings I don't look fwd to pressing another saab bushing as long as I live...)

Was I supposed to cut and burn the rubber out of the old bushing and insert the new into the old shell?
 
#30 ·
To answer my own question...

Took the tranny mount off and reverified everything. Cut and burned the old bushing out of it's sleeve just to make sure and...

The pro-part bushing is bigger than the outer diameter of the sleeve, much less the inner diameter--no way would it go in.

I think the issue is that Pro-Parts made a "universal replacement" bushing--it will work on both the pre & post '94MY transmissions. Clearly it will work better on the pre '94s.

I did discover with the warmer temps yesterday that it reinstalled more cleanly then the first time--the split is more evenly spread at the clamp.

There's less vibration at idle and it shifts into reverse more smoothly as well.
 
#31 ·
A stupid question maybe but I'm never afraid to ask them ;)

What is the little rubber eyelet strap thing in the cargo area on the right side hanging off the back of the speaker box? Can't figure out what or why on it
 
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