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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK. I have had a power upgrade which was awesome, but felt the performance was falling away over the last few weeks :cry: . So I rang the upgrade provider, and was told that I must be driving like a grandma :confused: Apparently the ecu learns and adapts to your driving, and provides the appropriate performance. This is done after every 7 ignition starts. Anyway, I have been driving harder to see what happens...:eek: :eek: . I now have the performance back to how it was :cheesy: . Is there another way of resetting the performance, or bypassing the "self tuning feature" so I always have the power on tap when I want it ?

cheers in advance ;)
 

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Karl said:
OK. I have had a power upgrade which was awesome, but felt the performance was falling away over the last few weeks :cry: . So I rang the upgrade provider, and was told that I must be driving like a grandma :confused: Apparently the ecu learns and adapts to your driving, and provides the appropriate performance. This is done after every 7 ignition starts. Anyway, I have been driving harder to see what happens...:eek: :eek: . I now have the performance back to how it was :cheesy: . Is there another way of resetting the performance, or bypassing the "self tuning feature" so I always have the power on tap when I want it ?

cheers in advance ;)
Sorry to through in a questoin with your queston but what stage tuning did you get and how much did it cost to get the job done?
 

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Pulling the ecu fuse resets everything. Just drive it like you stole it to keep the performance level up.
 

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You know what i am going to try this at the weekend because i drive like a granny most of the time! Will report back...i take it it is fuse 17, pull for 10 mins, put it back in, then cain it!:cheesy:
 

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Are there any other ramifications to pulling that fuse other than resetting the ECU? It doesn't clear out codes or kill the radio, right?
 

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It will clear all the CEL codes but will not mess with the radio. You need to keep the fuse out about 10 minutes. There are no other ramifications!
 

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You guys realize it's adapting to be fuel efficient, right?
 

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While we're talking about it....

I'm curious as to what exactly this "learning" is.

I believe it can happen, but I haven't seen any real technical description of exactly what happens.

The only thing that I thought I understood was, that through the knock sensor, the ecu could adjust the timing forward (although pretty slowly) with better gasoline (petrol) and back it off if the gasoline is lower in octane. I've experienced this after running the tank to pretty low after a tank of 87 (naughty wifey :nono; ), filling up with 93, and then resetting the ecu by removing fuse number 17 for ten minutes.

So what exactly is going on in there?
 

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Retarding the boost and timing to keep fuel efficiency high. The more boost you run, the more gas you run. I noticed that once I drove hard for a while, I went from running at 12 psi at WOT to about 14. I think I need to invest in 2" IC piping, 2.5" is just too big for that turbo, plus there is no reason to have 2.5" considering all my outlets and inlets are 2". My boost drops off at the end a little bit and I think it's cause there is so much open space in the piping. I'll do an experiment and let you guys know. :confused:

Wow... that was quite a tangent... :eek:
 

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SectorNine50 said:
My boost drops off at the end a little bit and I think it's cause there is so much open space in the piping.
This happens with any smaller turbo... you think of how much pressure they create, but remember that pressure has to fill the cylinders as well. When you are at high RPMs the cylinders are moving faster and therefore sucking in more air, so it is harder for the turbo to sustain the boost levels. This is why people put nice big turbos on their cars for more performance... it adds lots of juice all the way to redline. The piping on the other hand is a constant amount of air to pressurize, which is pretty easily overcome beyond the initial lag.
 

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That's true, good point! I forgot that fact... :eek:

May do the downsize anyway because the pipes as they are now are touching hot oil lines, kinda counter productive if you ask me... :evil:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Sorry to drag this one up again guys..:roll:


Has anyone considered putting a switch in, associated with the relevant fuse. That way you can reset it easily whenever you want to ? Or is this to difficult/ risky to do :lol: That way, Maximimum :eek: whenever you want it
 

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Karl said:
Sorry to drag this one up again guys..:roll:


Has anyone considered putting a switch in, associated with the relevant fuse. That way you can reset it easily whenever you want to ? Or is this to difficult/ risky to do :lol: That way, Maximimum :eek: whenever you want it
Well, self learning doesn't exactly work that way. When you pull the fuse for 10 minutes, the computer just forgets all that it's learned, and goes to a neutral map. Then from that point you can drive hard and it'll learn to tune for performance just as fast as if you left the fuse in. This is my experience at least, I don't ever pull my fuse, before I do a race I go and do 4 or 5 30 to 90 pulls to get it in performance mode, then I idle it, then let it cool while I eat lunch, and go race and humiliate friends! It's a great time! :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
All I was thinking was "throw the switch" every night, and then every morning... voila !!:cheesy:
 

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Karl said:
All I was thinking was "throw the switch" every night, and then every morning... voila !!:cheesy:
Don't know about you but most computers don't respond well to having their power cycled on and off. I realize that the ECU is solid state and robust, but still, it is a bit expensive to be power cycling it when all you have to do is leadfoot the car a lot to get the same thing.

I drive long trips every day. Minimum of 30 minutes most times nearer an hour. I think that mine is almost always tuned for power because I nearly always pull a long hard accel onto the interstate at least once per trip. Keeps the carbon clear from cylinders and a smile on my face.
 

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oops a daisy

Guys I'd be very carefull about adding a switch.

It's a good way to do the task makes it nice and easy but the switch location would need to be NOT available when driving ....... just in case""";oops: :nono;
 
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