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get the standard. the slim kit (if they are referring to the ballast) will get hotter and is more prone to failure. i was running slims on my bike and had a problem with the ballasts going bad. on a tip from another rider, i made my own harness and relocated a new standard style ballast to a more suitable location and the problem was solved.

thats just my .02 though
 

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I'm considering picking up a 4300k kit, and have been struggling to find an affordable kit with good quality and reviews.

Any suggestions?
 

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I'm considering picking up a 4300k kit, and have been struggling to find an affordable kit with good quality and reviews.

Any suggestions?
find an oem setup in a junkyard and retrofit, lol. though ive heard a lot of people happy with the aftermarket hid setups, ive also hear lots of complaints, and not just from saab people, all tuners seem to have a lot of complaints.

burned out bulbs (which are pricey), scattered light, ballasts that go bad or work intermittently, problems with quality hi/low kits , etc. most guys i ride with have converted their bikes, and we have all had a bit of trouble.

the basic point here is that the technology is cheap, its the R & D that is expensive, and to get these kits to mass market they may have cut corners.

ALL THAT SAID... DO IT! it not that big a deal and they look amazing. my volvo v70 runs 4300k low / 10k high and hid foggies. and i love them, though ive already had one burnout, lol. i wouldnt lose them for the world. some people get lucky, maybe even most, but id say a portion to large has had problems. id do it again though.
 

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no.



just look at the bulb shootout article on clearcorners.com. i've posted it enough times here that i'm not taking the time to do it again. you want bright light, get osram hyper bulbs from rallylights.com. 10W extra power consumption, but that's not enough to harm the glass and metal lamp housings. there's another osram bulb (i believe it's the nightbreaker) that has a blue edge on the glass near the low beam filament to get a blue look while still putting white light on the road. either way you go, it's loads cheaper and safer than hids.
 

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Nighthawk's are supposed to be good, but those are the wrong bulb type. You want the H4. I haven't heard anything about the new Platinums, but considering how expensive those are, I'd head over to powerbulbs.com and get a set of Osram Nightbreakers or Philips X-Tremepower bulbs for less money.
 

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Nighthawk's are supposed to be good, but those are the wrong bulb type. You want the H4. I haven't heard anything about the new Platinums, but considering how expensive those are, I'd head over to powerbulbs.com and get a set of Osram Nightbreakers or Philips X-Tremepower bulbs for less money.
Damn, could've sworn they were H7's lol.

I wound up ordering a set of the Osram Nightbreakers. Came out to be something like $23 shipped which is pretty darn good...
 

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i had nighthawks on my mazda loved them better then the sliverstars but that was before there were the ultras. i liked the fact that they were a clear bulb instead of the colored bulbs but were very white. i had those for a number of years and still worked great when i sold the car.
 

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did you have them turned on all the time or did you shut them off during the daytime? i'm surprised to hear that a pair of premium bulbs could last to long since they supposedly have short lifespans. maybe the higher standards that make them brighter also improve lifespan.
 

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fine.


stock halogen:


premium halogen:


hid retrofit:


the article.
That doesn't happen in 9-3 housings (fyi)...

These were my old HID's in my stock US housings...



9-3's w/ US lights, c900's with E-codes, and 93+ 9k's all have just about 0 glare with HID's. How do I know? I've had them in all of them. I never got high beamed or pulled over for them, and cops here pull people over for EVERYTHING.

Not all headlight lenses/housings are created the same and produce the same pattern, so you can't use a generic comparison.
 

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there may be little glare, but your beam pattern is awful. in fact, i bet if your car was closer to that wall, the same effects that clearcorners saw with the cibie housing would present themselves, considering the cutoff has the same odd shape. it slants down on the right when it really should slant up to light the side of the road where there aren't other drivers to be blinded. then again, if it did do that, you'd blind absolutely everyone since hid bulbs put light where it shouldn't go in halogen housings, namely the right side. light from a halogen bulb above the cutoff there is bright enough for signs but dim enough not to bother anyone. light from an hid is just too much. thus, there are housings designed specifically for hid bulbs.


want hids? then do a retrofit with a projector designed for them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have read that 35w hids can flicker or not turn on properly because of the low wattage. What wattages are ur guys kits. vvme sells a 35w and a 50/55w bi-xenon kit. Will the 50/55 kit hurt the wiring. I have my DRLs disabled.
 

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i hear that's only an issue when shutting off the lights using the ignition. supposedly, there's no issue if you turn them off using the switch before shutting off the car. doesn't matter if it's free form retrofits or projector retrofits (mind you, the projector retrofits look absolutely amazing).
 

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So I received the Night Breakers today, took about 7 days shipping from UK which is surprisingly decent, anyways, after a random problem with one bulb not seating properly and resulting in being aimed way ahead of where it should have been... Everything is great and the bulbs are much whiter than the stock GE's.

I'm pleased.
 
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