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I am following the steps on the platonoff site to verify that my linkage is properly aligned. I have a question... When I drop the locking pin (AKA 3mm allen key) into the the hole under my shift boot, should it drop straight through the shift rod or just inside the shift rod? In other words, is there only one hole in the top of the shift rod, or two, which would allow the locking pin to drop straight through?

This is the step I am referring to:
http://photo.platonoff.com/Auto/20050325.Saab_NG900_Shifter_Alignment/?i=20050325h.Locking_pin.jpg

Thanks!
 

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When I aligned the shifter after I changed transmissions, I put the shifter collar on the shifter shaft, put the shift lever in 4th gear (collar goes forward), inserted an allen wrench, shifted the transmission shaft into 4th gear (middle rotation position and in) and locked down the collar. That worked just fine... Ron
 

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sorry to highjack the thread..........

i have a question about this proceedure as well.

which bolt/clamp exactly do I slack here.........



there is a contraption of bolts and things down there. i know im supposed to losen the "clamp bolt", but im not sure what that clamp looks like.

does anyone have a pic of the part/bolt I need to be looking for?
 

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sorry to highjack the thread..........

i have a question about this proceedure as well.

which bolt/clamp exactly do I slack here.........

there is a contraption of bolts and things down there. i know im supposed to losen the "clamp bolt", but im not sure what that clamp looks like.

does anyone have a pic of the part/bolt I need to be looking for?
There's a shaft coming out from the firewall. Have someone wriggle the shifter inside the car, and it will be clear.
 

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There's a shaft coming out from the firewall. Have someone wriggle the shifter inside the car, and it will be clear.
thanks Ed.

i see a shaft and a bolt and what looks like a fork attached to it. am I tackling the bolt closest to the fire all on that shaft?
 

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thanks Ed.

i see a shaft and a bolt and what looks like a fork attached to it. am I tackling the bolt closest to the fire all on that shaft?
Yes, the bolt pinches together the shifter linkage (which looks vageuly forklike with a couple of sublinkages) so that it's fixed on the rod. Loosen that and you can adjust so that position X at the shift lever actually gets you gear X in the transmission.

Is the shifting bad after the clutch replacement? The mechanic should have adjusted the shifter after reinstalling the trans.
 

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there is no difference in shifting before or after clutch job. they did the clutch nice. i love it.

the issue with the shifter is it's partly limb.

like if it's in neutral and i fling it to the right, it comes right back to center position.

but if i fling it to the left, it only comes back half way. so if i fling it from Neutral center position towards 1st/2nd gear it does not come back to center. it only comes back half way and stop between 1st/2nd and 3rd/4th.

there also seems to be more play than normal when it's in gear.

am I still looking at linkage adjustment, or is this something else?
 

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The transmission determines where the shift shaft goes. If it's not acting the same as before, you might suspect that another transmission was put back into your car. That's why I have been recommending taking a picture of the serial number plate on top of the transmission before any work is done... Ron
 

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there is no difference in shifting before or after clutch job. they did the clutch nice. i love it.

the issue with the shifter is it's partly limb.

like if it's in neutral and i fling it to the right, it comes right back to center position.

but if i fling it to the left, it only comes back half way. so if i fling it from Neutral center position towards 1st/2nd gear it does not come back to center. it only comes back half way and stop between 1st/2nd and 3rd/4th.

there also seems to be more play than normal when it's in gear.

am I still looking at linkage adjustment, or is this something else?
That doesn't sound right.

I assume that the transmission was removed to change the clutch. Part of the transmission installation should be to set up the linkage properly. It's still worth checking, even though that would mean that it was not aligned properly before the trans came out.

You want to check that the two rods on the linkage are also attached properly; they can come loose. Although again, a trans pull and replacement should cover that item.

I had one of the rods loose, and it didn't actually affect the shifting much. What happens if the other rod is loose, I don't know.

Which way is the play when it's in gear? I can move it forward a bit in 1/3/5, and I guess backwards in 2/4/R, but not much side-to-side. And my shifter springs back to the 3-4 centre position all the time. I don't have to put any side motion to get there, so a 5-4 downshift is pull, pull, while a 5-3 downshift is pull, push. 2-3 is push-push. No aiming required.
 

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That doesn't sound right.

I assume that the transmission was removed to change the clutch. Part of the transmission installation should be to set up the linkage properly. It's still worth checking, even though that would mean that it was not aligned properly before the trans came out.

You want to check that the two rods on the linkage are also attached properly; they can come loose. Although again, a trans pull and replacement should cover that item.

I had one of the rods loose, and it didn't actually affect the shifting much. What happens if the other rod is loose, I don't know.

Which way is the play when it's in gear? I can move it forward a bit in 1/3/5, and I guess backwards in 2/4/R, but not much side-to-side. And my shifter springs back to the 3-4 centre position all the time. I don't have to put any side motion to get there, so a 5-4 downshift is pull, pull, while a 5-3 downshift is pull, push. 2-3 is push-push. No aiming required.
from research i did online it appears as though i might have a broken/worn out bushing (or some other sort of plastic or rubber peice) where the vertical stick (the shifter) connects to the horizontal rod (which i think is the gear rod??).

i was not able to get a picture of what that looks like from under neath in our cars, so im not 100% on this yet.
 

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from research i did online it appears as though i might have a broken/worn out bushing (or some other sort of plastic or rubber peice) where the vertical stick (the shifter) connects to the horizontal rod (which i think is the gear rod??).

i was not able to get a picture of what that looks like from under neath in our cars, so im not 100% on this yet.
I don't think there's anything under the car. You can pull back the shift boot and have a look. The shifter lever basically goes down into a big ball-and-socket joint, with a bit of trickery to do with the reverse lockout.

From here, the rod goes through the firewall, to the pinch bolt that attaches the transmission linkage contraption.
 

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I don't think there's anything under the car. You can pull back the shift boot and have a look. The shifter lever basically goes down into a big ball-and-socket joint, with a bit of trickery to do with the reverse lockout.

From here, the rod goes through the firewall, to the pinch bolt that attaches the transmission linkage contraption.
this is the part of the design I dont fully understand.

the vertical shifter level at some point must connect to the horizontal rod, no?

the problem I have seems to be located below the ball and socket joint.

as in somewhere here........(not sure if this is what Saab looks like underneath, this pic is from E36 BMW) I could not for the life of me find a pic for a Saab of what it looks like under there.





particularly this bushing (again im not sure if this is same for Saab)




these pics were taken from here --> http://www.101projects.com/BMW/Projects/041/pics.htm
 

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Tinted, the bushing I believe u are looking for is under the shifter housing, looks very similar to the last pic of yours above. Its a plastic cylindrical sleeve. I've also got loads I slop in mine and suspect the same part. You will need to remove the shifter from the car to replace it.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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the question remainds, however, are these the bushings that are causing exessive slack in the stick shift lever?

i'd hate to buy them, and do the work just to find out i need something else. :roll:
 

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Waking up this thread - hopefully the people who've already commented on it can help out.

I'm working on replacing the clutch and am trying to disconnect the shifter linkage. I think i've identified the correct nut/clamp, but it's only accessible from the bottom, from the top (as all the procedure photos show) i don't have nut or hex bolt...it's just a cap with no purchase. From the bottom, there's sort of a funky crowned nut that seems more embedded in the bracket. I can't get a 13 mm socket to move it; it was ill-fitting and chews right off. I've coated iwth Corrosion X; hopefully that will loosen things up.

Any tips? i'm actually -not- hopeful that will loosen things up! The nut does not fit nicely in a 13 mm socket.

https://plus.google.com/110009091399278528402/posts/ZtzBCr11TdU?pid=6140042618277967026&oid=110009091399278528402


sorry to highjack the thread..........

i have a question about this proceedure as well.

which bolt/clamp exactly do I slack here.........



there is a contraption of bolts and things down there. i know im supposed to losen the "clamp bolt", but im not sure what that clamp looks like.

does anyone have a pic of the part/bolt I need to be looking for?
 

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Thank you to whomever wrote up the guide! It worked perfectly for the issue I was having with my 1995 900 se convertible.

I had a difficult time getting the shifter to engage 5th gear reliably. I had to attempt the shift several times before it would engage.

After the adjustment, I can shift through all of the gears with one finger.
 
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