SaabCentral Forums banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently replaced all of my speakers with Infinity Kappas. I'm going to install an infinity BassLink II next. According to the "how to" documents I read the instructions say to tap Basslink into the 6 1/2 front door speakers. I have a 300, 13 speaker system in my car. Is there any reason why I should not tap into the 6X9 on the back shelf instead?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,567 Posts
don't do it.

i had one, and it blew after 2 days. and honestly, the 2 days it was working - it sucked. hardly any bass whatsoever.

it's just as cost effective to purchase a nice amp and a basic sub and enclosure. i did that and it sounds amazing. and it's the same basic steps, splice the rear 6x9 and use an rca converter, plug into the amp.. done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
411 Posts
I think it might have someting to do with the cross overs on the rear speakers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
wtfwill said:
don't do it.

i had one, and it blew after 2 days. and honestly, the 2 days it was working - it sucked. hardly any bass whatsoever.

it's just as cost effective to purchase a nice amp and a basic sub and enclosure. i did that and it sounds amazing. and it's the same basic steps, splice the rear 6x9 and use an rca converter, plug into the amp.. done.
Diid you install Basslink or BasslinkII.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,410 Posts
For a subwoofer like the basslink (I or II) you would want to tap the 6x9's in the 13 speaker setup. That's a pure subwoofer signal (~20-100 Hz and nothing else).

I think you need to use a line-level converter and the low-level inputs on the basslink. If you use the speaker level inputs you need to know the specs and what voltage they can handle. I think amp2 peaks at ~14 V, which is high for many of these amps' (including basslinks) high-level inputs. When they say you can plug the factory speaker wires right into the amp, they really mean a factory system in the 1-5 watt range. The Saab stuff is more like 20 W. Fortunately there are line-converters which can handle this kind of power.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
910 Posts
I have a Basslink I and it was one of the easiest and best ways to add bass to my system. I've had it for over 3.5 years and its been great!

Spielnicht (former member) wrote up this great install guide found on Saba's website:

http://members.iinet.net.au/~mmo/Docs/basslink.pdf
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,873 Posts
MarkJ said:
I have a Basslink I and it was one of the easiest and best ways to add bass to my system. I've had it for over 3.5 years and its been great!

Spielnicht (former member) wrote up this great install guide found on Saba's website:

http://members.iinet.net.au/~mmo/Docs/basslink.pdf
I had one on my 03' for about 3 years as well. Thought it was nice but certainly no "real sub". I realized that when I put a JL Audio sub and 250 watt amp in my other car--it's unbelievable:eek:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ctrlz said:
For a subwoofer like the basslink (I or II) you would want to tap the 6x9's in the 13 speaker setup. That's a pure subwoofer signal (~20-100 Hz and nothing else).

I think you need to use a line-level converter and the low-level inputs on the basslink. If you use the speaker level inputs you need to know the specs and what voltage they can handle. I think amp2 peaks at ~14 V, which is high for many of these amps' (including basslinks) high-level inputs. When they say you can plug the factory speaker wires right into the amp, they really mean a factory system in the 1-5 watt range. The Saab stuff is more like 20 W. Fortunately there are line-converters which can handle this kind of power.
I was going to use the instructions MarkJ provided. In that document it says to tap the 6 1/2 front door speakers. Based on what you are saying I should not tap speakers and use a line level converter. Does the line level converter connect directly to the rear amp? Do you know where I can purchase a converter that can address the 14Vs?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,410 Posts
You would still connect to the 6.5" speakers.

Usual way to do this is:

Speaker wires --> high level inputs on basslink

But if voltage is too high, the above wiring can overload the high-level inputs.
Second way:

Speaker wires --> line level converter (LOC) --> low level inputs on basslink

The added cost here is the LOC. Fortunately even good ones only cost about $20. They can be had on ebay or at car audio shops. Look for one that lists input power specs. Many LOC's are designed for low power factory stereos (up to 5 watts). But plenty can handle up to 50 watts.

There are many threads here on where to find good LOC's. You can try a saabcentral search. There is not much circuitry to these, and there are many Chinese companies out there selling basically the same thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ctrlz said:
You would still connect to the 6.5" speakers.

Usual way to do this is:

Speaker wires --> high level inputs on basslink

But if voltage is too high, the above wiring can overload the high-level inputs.
Second way:

Speaker wires --> line level converter (LOC) --> low level inputs on basslink

The added cost here is the LOC. Fortunately even good ones only cost about $20. They can be had on ebay or at car audio shops. Look for one that lists input power specs. Many LOC's are designed for low power factory stereos (up to 5 watts). But plenty can handle up to 50 watts.

There are many threads here on where to find good LOC's. You can try a saabcentral search. There is not much circuitry to these, and there are many Chinese companies out there selling basically the same thing.
Great. Since I have the 13 speaker system could I connect the LOC to my 6X9s instead of the 6 1/2?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
910 Posts
ctrlz is exactly correct, the reason the PDF instructs to tap off the door speakers is that it was done on a linear which does not have 6x9's!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
MarkJ said:
ctrlz is exactly correct, the reason the PDF instructs to tap off the door speakers is that it was done on a linear which does not have 6x9's!
Excellent that will same me some work!!!! Thanks for your help..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,410 Posts
nbk4m2a said:
Excellent that will save me some work!!!! Thanks for your help..
You're welcome!
Quite frankly, that saves much more work than you might imagine! Getting to that amp's wiring is a PITA, and removing the seat is problematic. Many members here have stripped the seat bolts trying to get the seat out. Some serious threadlocker is used by Saab on those bolts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ctrlz said:
For a subwoofer like the basslink (I or II) you would want to tap the 6x9's in the 13 speaker setup. That's a pure subwoofer signal (~20-100 Hz and nothing else).

I think you need to use a line-level converter and the low-level inputs on the basslink. If you use the speaker level inputs you need to know the specs and what voltage they can handle. I think amp2 peaks at ~14 V, which is high for many of these amps' (including basslinks) high-level inputs. When they say you can plug the factory speaker wires right into the amp, they really mean a factory system in the 1-5 watt range. The Saab stuff is more like 20 W. Fortunately there are line-converters which can handle this kind of power.
Question: do I need stereo RCA cables or mono RCA cables from the Line - Level Converter to the Low - Level inputs of the Basslink?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,410 Posts
nbk4m2a said:
Question: do I need stereo RCA cables or mono RCA cables from the Line - Level Converter to the Low - Level inputs of the Basslink?
Yes. You will need RCA cables going from the LOC to the low-level inputs on the basslink. These are shielded cables. You can use any RCA cables like you might already have for home video/stereo equipment. All basically the same.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,488 Posts
ctrlz said:
Getting to that amp's wiring is a PITA, and removing the seat is problematic. Many members here have stripped the seat bolts trying to get the seat out. Some serious threadlocker is used by Saab on those bolts.
I was able to get to the amp wiring without removing the seat, but it's a very small area to work in. It doesn't help that Saab doesn't leave a whole lot of slack on the wires. I almost couldn't get the amp plugged back in after I was done.

But it does prove that it's possible to make the connections to AMP1 without removing the seat ;)
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top