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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've been having trouble during cold starts that seem to be remedied by waiting for a moment after turning the car on and before starting it. I also recently had the fuel pump die out on me, which I replaced, but I did not replace the check valves, so it wouldn't surprise me that they went bad roughly around the same time

My question is, is I know there's two check valves. Am I supposed to replace both? Are they both the same part?

I've heard people have had luck just cutting out the valves from the line, inserting the new one, clamping it on both sides with fuel line in between, which I'm fine with. Anyone have any other tips?

I've also heard of people replacing the banjo bolt that is connected to the fuel filter with a BMW banjo bolt that has a check valve built into it. Part #32416781261. Anyone have any experience with that?
 

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I dont think so. There is one in the connector of the feed line to keep the pressure, and there should be one inside the pump unit in the return line to prevent fuel leakage in case of an accident.
The one in the feed line might cause problems during start.
At ignition on fuel pump is switched on for a second, then shut off and again activated as soon as engine speed is detected. Priming should be sufficient to build up pressure in the feed line, but only when the return valve is working.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I feel like there's conflicting answers with your replies @thaistatos @Mimmi

A lot of the guides online show the white valve being replaced, which is the valve for the feed line. Coincidentally, it does seem like the only part being advertised is the valve for the feed line.

So I'll assume it's the white, feed one I have to replace. I am very tempted to try the BMW banjo bolt trick, because it seems more easily reversible than cutting the fuel line on the tank (and easier). Not only that, but the only replacement check valves are only sold by ProParts, who suck
 

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I would test the BMW trick, but I am not sure that the valve is suited for fuel. Maybe some test with fuel and the valve in a jar glas over a week would give hints. Originally, as far as I have seen, this valve is used for hydraulic fluid in powersteering line. There might be some sealing materials which are ok for oil/hydraulic fluid, but not for fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Good point. I may test it, for science.

This may sound like a silly question, but if the check valve in the feed line fails, then it is pretty much just an empty line, correct? In which case, I don't need to modify it anyway before I put in the BMW banjo bolt?
 

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If it fails in the feed line most probably all fuel will run back to the pump. If it would stuck closed then no fuel would reach the engine and it would not start. There might be some theoretical case where it might reduce the flow, but that would pop up at higher power.
No, just put in the banjo. But on the correct side, which should be input for fuel filter.
Are you sure that you have banjos on the fuel filter? I thought there was some discussion that some American cars have other fuel connectors, but it might depend on the MY.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
MY bad, I read that you replaced the pump. what sender did you buy> spectra, OEM or? Also, its really easy to hurt the fittings and lines on top, the vinyl can kink etc, horrible job to re do. sympathies.
Yes, it’s definitely not a fun job. I actually replaced it with a fuel pump that had 40k miles on it from my parts car, which was OEM

I think it’s a given that when the fuel pump is bad it’s only common sense to replace the whole sender, but it does seem like the only other wear and tear item is the check valves

The bmw bolt shipped today, I’ll post results
 
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