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Discussion Starter #1
I finally got it out. Can I but the bolt in the other way to make installation easier. Or is there some special force that if I put it in the other way it wont work? And just have the nut in the back by the firewall. Or is that too easy? LOL. Oh and which was do the bushings go in...does the rubber washer thing on the bushings go on the outsides of the bracket or the insides?
 

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The bushes go on the inside of the bracket. Are you replacing the bushes on the tensioner arm too?

It might be that the starter motor is in the way to put the bolt in that way...
 

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My Saab gurus tell me that if the bolt is installed with the nut toward the firewall, it will inevitably, over time work its way loose. I can't figure out why else it would have been installed such that the base has to be removed for the alternator to be extracted.

One of my parts cars had the firewall filled with putty behind that bolt where one frustrated individual beat in the sheet metal to make room for the bolt head......:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I did buy the bushings for the alternator arm as well. however I am not sure how to approach it. Any suggestions? Im still going to try putting the bolt in the other way just to see. That way I can put the bracket on right. So to sum it up. Put the bushings for the alternator bracket on the insides, meaning the rubber washers will cushion the alternator being on the inside, preventing it from moving right.

thanks
 

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The alternator arm is easy. When you have the alt out, just follow the arm down to where it bolts to the oil pump cover.
 

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davidlytle said:
Ill give it a shot tonight. Is it just a bolt? or is there a long bolt with a nut on it?
The tensioning arm is secured to the engine block by an 8mm bolt which goes through the centre of the two bush halves via a steel 'sleeve' tube. There's a big washer that sits between the head of the bolt and the engine-end of the tensioning arm.

You can see the other end and work out how it's set up, but basically there is a long bolt to set the belt tension by moving the alternator either closer to or away from the engine, and once the belt tension is correct there's another bolt that is tightened up to lock the tensioner into position on the tensioning arm. I think it's the same for all years of production.

Craig.
 
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