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I haven't done one in at least 15 years, but I always did it all from the top. It becomes obvious after you remove the upper portion of the motor mount. This requires your supporting the engine with a jack underneath or you'll never get the bolts started to refit it. Getting the height of the jack just right is essential to refitting the mount.
I always used a regular floor jack (I always worked in a fully equipped shop), but you should be able to use the SAAB jack with a block of wood on it. Put the jack right under the differential.
 

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Jim's got the start right. The pump itself has to have the pulley removed before you can get the three bolts that connect it to the bracket. this will require removal of pump and bracket from the mount area. Also note that the bolts in the block/transmission case are going to need thread SEALANT (not locker). Before you start it would also be a good time to inspect your engine mount to make sure it is in good shape. It will be an easy change since you are already there. The pulley is a press on type. Good luck and good fortune on the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks both!!
sadly im too new to mechanics to know exactly what to do (what parts you mean) :( i would think about a garage but i want to learn! my hobby :)
I have an EPC for saab, does one of you have it already? maybe you can point out which parts are which? (ill try to search myself, and otherwise post some pictures and see if im right)

also, where is the best place to jack the engine up? knowing saab (and without looking yet) there is probably a special place for it!

ya, ive never done any heavy work around the engine, but like i said, i want to learn!

thanks!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i just got the 'new' pump in the mail today.

then got to looking at it, and realizing that it can only go in from the top with the pully removed, and maybe from the bottom like that to!

can i actually remove the pully? it looks like it needs a very special took :(

as for jacking up the engine, i took a guess, and some photos! would the red arrow be the place to do it? (and the yellow arrow incase i need to jack up the whole car)

 

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The differential is the right arrow, use a block of wood to spread the weight.

The cross member is connected to the chassis and so won't jack the engine up very far ;)
 

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Yes you can jack the engine from there and only by about 50-60mm. Remember there are things still connected which will be damaged when you lift if not released. These are the engine mounts both sides and the gearchange coupling block. Remove the top nut on the RHS mount and the horizontal bolt on the LHS mount. Remember, there will be things still connected so don't over do it. Do only one side if you can.

You can jack the whole car a bit from there but it's best to use the chassis rails at the sides and use chassis stands to avoid accidents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
oy yoy, hope im not in over my head, parts i dont know... (i learn by jumping in the deep end ;)

would this be the gear coupling mount, are the bolts you mentioned shown here?

 

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would this be the gear coupling mount, are the bolts you mentioned shown here?
No. The parts you need to undo are not shown on this diagram, which is all gearbox parts. The RHS engine mount is easy to locate. It's under the exhaust manifold at the rear of the engine. Remove the top nut and washer. That's it. The LHS mount is hidden under the alternator and has a horizontal bolt in the bottom bracket facing forward that you remove. The mount will not collapse when it is removed. The gear-change coupling is obvious. It is a small rectangular rubber block underneath the bottom rear of the engine connecting to the gearshift mechanism. If you only lift a little you may get away without loosening this, but if you damage it you will need a new one.

PS If you leave the coupling attached, put the car in neutral. It allows more movement in the mechanism.
 

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Hopefully this video, while not of a 900 will give you a better idea of what we are talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
great, im gona go for it today i hope :D

was thinking though, is there a bleed valve for the fluid once i get it hooked back up, or is it self clearing like the coolant?
 

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Self clearing, but you do it by exercising the rack through the full range of travel (lock to lock).
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ya, I did it! Was a lot easier then I thought :) did most of it from the top and removed with the brace on. Tutorial and pictures on my site www.saabrepairguide.com, soon.

My question is how tight to put on the belt? Are there any guidelines or do I need a professional for this??
 

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Rule of thumb, on the longest run, proper tightness on a belt is roughly 12mm deflection with light to moderate pressure. That does not replace a tension tool, but should keep you safely running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
ya, website server is a bit slow, in the process of moving soon..

well all done, the saga is complete! went to a garage/parts store, put on the belt in the parking lot and then asked a professional to check it and he said 'good work' :)

now i already got used to no power steering and almost prefer it! would consider it if weren't for the woman who needs it :)

i wonder, is it possible to adjust the pressure on a power steering? make it less or more strong?
 
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