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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I've been meaning to get some stuff up here for a long time. So i am going to start posting up some of my pics that I have taken.



Snorkel was cut and rotated around to be a Ram Air for the intake, Evo 8 FMIC installed noticable cooling improvements.







GS Strut Brace and Lighter Duralast Gold Battery (stock airbox shown but reinstalled intake)




DIY intake with funnel to Ram Air


 

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LED parking light? Like city light? I had W5W bulbs but they would always flash after I shut the car off.
 

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Car looks nice. Good stuff! What sort of power are you putting down?

How do you go with your engine cover removed and the hood/bonnet lining removed? Or was that only temporarily removed?

Also, your battery cover... Do you use that? I'm not sure how long your battery will last without a cover as when I tested cover off/on it was considerably hotter around the battery with the cover off.

I would be afraid of it causing heat spots and damaging the paint on your bonnet...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
LED parking light? Like city light? I had W5W bulbs but they would always flash after I shut the car off.

Ya i meant that! I need to get error canceling ones just havent gotten around to it. Mine does the same thing
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Car looks nice. Good stuff! What sort of power are you putting down?

How do you go with your engine cover removed and the hood/bonnet lining removed? Or was that only temporarily removed?

Also, your battery cover... Do you use that? I'm not sure how long your battery will last without a cover as when I tested cover off/on it was considerably hotter around the battery with the cover off.

I would be afraid of it causing heat spots and damaging the paint on your bonnet...
took them off for good. paint wise it gets hot in the framing under the hood but no difference on the top or outisde of the hood. I wanted more circulation in the engine bay i have removed all the plastic bits. Battery never gets more then warm but i have removed that flap that is behind the grille. I have a turbo blanket i have not yet installed that should reduce under hood temps dramaticly.
 

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AH ok.

I have a few friends that went down the "tubro blanket" road and it seemed to work for them.

Another major heat source (as you probably know) is the cat that's pretty much attached to the back of the turbo.
 

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the honeycomb on the MAf is there for a reason. You have just skewed your MAF readings by removing it. Its there to straighten the air, yes i know it sounds retarded and doesnt make sense. But without it there the AIr flowing through the MAF will be read skewed and will throw of its readings...


everything else looks good man.
 

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Where is that strut brace from? Any improvement in steering response?
 

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Did you leave the hood seal off permanently?
Also if you have the HP tuners software, you can go about tuning the maf, so you can get the best out of the modifications...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ya its the Genuine Saab strut brace i put 2 fairly thick washers under each mounting point. Hugs the coolant tank for sure but you can get away with it, did notice coolant temps slightly higher. well worth it i have the 3pt subframe brace and together they really make the car feel thick and planted... the strut brace gives the steering more weighted feel in a good way. cleans up the sloppy feeling but there is still too much body role (tires are next g-max). I dont have hptuners but i do have stage 1 JZW tune able to take advantage of some e85. I'm eye balling hptuners on a few boards hoping to get one for a really good deal. downpipe and injectors soon then reflash. I may just pick up I-flash from John at JZW and use that to go back and forth. idk if i want to get the 19t which seems to be a proven setup or try to go small Holset turbo HX35? but that is gonna be much later like next year maybe

NOTES: had the maf cut up but kept giving me a cel but felt noticeably faster. Threw the stock airbox back and cel went away left that in for months now but moved back to the intake and cel hasn't come back weird?
 

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ya its the Genuine Saab strut brace i put 2 fairly thick washers under each mounting point. Hugs the coolant tank for sure but you can get away with it, did notice coolant temps slightly higher. well worth it i have the 3pt subframe brace and together they really make the car feel thick and planted... the strut brace gives the steering more weighted feel in a good way. cleans up the sloppy feeling but there is still too much body role (tires are next g-max). I dont have hptuners but i do have stage 1 JZW tune able to take advantage of some e85. I'm eye balling hptuners on a few boards hoping to get one for a really good deal. downpipe and injectors soon then reflash. I may just pick up I-flash from John at JZW and use that to go back and forth. idk if i want to get the 19t which seems to be a proven setup or try to go small Holset turbo HX35? but that is gonna be much later like next year maybe

NOTES: had the maf cut up but kept giving me a cel but felt noticeably faster. Threw the stock airbox back and cel went away left that in for months now but moved back to the intake and cel hasn't come back weird?
What code did the CEL throw?
 

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NOTES: had the maf cut up but kept giving me a cel but felt noticeably faster. Threw the stock airbox back and cel went away left that in for months now but moved back to the intake and cel hasn't come back weird?
I would imagine that the CEL that you get is either for MAF sensor performance, or for the fuel trims being over a certain percentage. The factory box helps to return these to normal, but it will still be out of whack...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i believe it was something to the extent of "system too lean bank 1?" dont remeber the code AFR looks steady now but was totally nuts when i first did it. Car must have figured it out somehow because before the AFR was all over the place and had the most rough idle ever but now its smooth as butter... overall i wouldnt recommend it unless your getting tuned right after.
 
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