SaabCentral Forums banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,382 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So... after replacing my return to bottle PS line (was split), I've found that there's also a pinhole leak in the rubber part of the line that runs from under the battery tray to the rack.

1) I've never replaced this line. How do you get it out? Looks improbable. Length of this job? Tips? Non-standard tools?

2) Anyone used a Pro Parts hose? Yea, I know... but the original is $220, the Pro Parts is $55. Looking for other alternatives. There seem to be some options in the UK. Normally I'd just spring for the original, but this is a sizeable difference. My Pro Parts pump-to-battery line has been OK for durability, but I do recall that the "clamp" at the pump is incorrectly placed on them and you have to bend it to fit their hose. I'd want to know if the rack-to-battery hose actually fits... as well as get feedback if anyone has used it longer term.

3) Anyone attending these days acually had a hydraulic hose made up to run from the rack to the pump over the top and kill two birds with one stone? Are the fittings standard? Might be a good choice as my rack-to-bat hose has a few rusty years on it now. I was thinking that might get done while I have the bumper off for other work. One hose would cover both. I know some folks did it here in the past but I don't recall who.
 

·
Registered
Current: 2000 9-3 Aero 5d, Family: 85 900i 3dr.
Joined
·
1,205 Posts
Bob - wasn't there a recent post about the Vert hoses or brake lines - where someone had suggested a US hydraulic company doing the clamping. This might also work for your power steering fix.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,382 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Bob - wasn't there a recent post about the Vert hoses or brake lines - where someone had suggested a US hydraulic company doing the clamping. This might also work for your power steering fix.
Yeah... I'm concerned as to whether the fittings are something a supplier will have. I don't know squat about hydraulic fittings.
 

·
Registered
Current: 2000 9-3 Aero 5d, Family: 85 900i 3dr.
Joined
·
1,205 Posts
so what's your main concern with the PPS product? - I was thinking you might be able to cannibalise the fittings if your concern was the quality of the hose.
I'm sure someone in the forum did this recently - but I think it was associated with the vert hoses, not the PS.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,111 Posts
I'm sure you know the drill, everything on the front needs to come of so the swearing is limited, it's the easiest access thru the opening by the radiator, as for a single line I haven't done it but the car recently left for me has had that done so it is possible, any place that can make up lines and not just one specific style like fisher plow hoses for example should be able to do it the fittings are metric with the Oring on the pipe, rip off both ends and have them crimp hoses to the pipe parts, the hose runs down and across where the return pipe is atop the radiator. I prefer to keep it stock and if it lasted 20 years, think about it again in 2041.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mort

·
Registered
Joined
·
268 Posts
So... after replacing my return to bottle PS line (was split), I've found that there's also a pinhole leak in the rubber part of the line that runs from under the battery tray to the rack.

1) I've never replaced this line. How do you get it out? Looks improbable. Length of this job? Tips? Non-standard tools?

2) Anyone used a Pro Parts hose? Yea, I know... but the original is $220, the Pro Parts is $55. Looking for other alternatives. There seem to be some options in the UK. Normally I'd just spring for the original, but this is a sizeable difference. My Pro Parts pump-to-battery line has been OK for durability, but I do recall that the "clamp" at the pump is incorrectly placed on them and you have to bend it to fit their hose. I'd want to know if the rack-to-battery hose actually fits... as well as get feedback if anyone has used it longer term.

3) Anyone attending these days acually had a hydraulic hose made up to run from the rack to the pump over the top and kill two birds with one stone? Are the fittings standard? Might be a good choice as my rack-to-bat hose has a few rusty years on it now. I was thinking that might get done while I have the bumper off for other work. One hose would cover both. I know some folks did it here in the past but I don't recall who.
That hose is a real PITA to replace if you're taking about P/N 533045. I replaced that hose when my engine was removed from the car and still had a heck of a time re installing it. Make sure to remember how you got it out, its a long awkward piece of hose you have to finagle just right.

Of course i made my life hard to and stripped out the severely rusted nut that connects the the lower hose so be careful of that.
Not really any other tips i can think of just gotta keep removing parts that are in your way :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
215 Posts
Somewhere there is a post that includes a parts list to make the high pressure hose with parts from Jegs. I reference the post in an earlier one of mine from about 2019.

I routed mine along the top of the radiator and then down the driver side of it and then back to the rack. I just left the original one in there.

I will say it does take less effort to steer. Not sure how that would be affected. Even after I replaced the PS pump it feels the same. I don't notice my car handling any different.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
268 Posts
also as a temporary fix Bob until you get a replacement line if its just a pin hole leak you can try using silicone sealing tape like in this link below...
i used that stuff before in an emergency for a split coolant hose and it was enough to get me home and that was a a BIG split. If its a pinhole leak this may even be sufficient enough to be an appropriate repair for quite awhile.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,382 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm sure you know the drill, everything on the front needs to come of so the swearing is limited, it's the easiest access thru the opening by the radiator, as for a single line I haven't done it but the car recently left for me has had that done so it is possible, any place that can make up lines and not just one specific style like fisher plow hoses for example should be able to do it the fittings are metric with the Oring on the pipe, rip off both ends and have them crimp hoses to the pipe parts, the hose runs down and across where the return pipe is atop the radiator. I prefer to keep it stock and if it lasted 20 years, think about it again in 2041.
Multi: You're saying that if I brought the two hose ends (pump side and rack side) that a shop could match them with "standard" fittings? I know the pump side has a metal pipe that perhaps could be affixed to a new hose, but I think the rack end is hose into fitting (and that's the hose that's leaking so it needs replacement). You think they could make up a replacement if they had those fittings?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,382 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
also as a temporary fix Bob until you get a replacement line if its just a pin hole leak you can try using silicone sealing tape like in this link below...
i used that stuff before in an emergency for a split coolant hose and it was enough to get me home and that was a a BIG split. If its a pinhole leak this may even be sufficient enough to be an appropriate repair for quite awhile.
Jeff: So it has to come out through the front? Would having the radiator out matter? Or does it come out from the hole aside the radiator and it doesn't matter if the radiator's out?

I might give that tape a shot as a temp repair. It only leaks when you hit full lock. Then it squirts 4'. From what I'm told, the pressure can spike over 1000 psi at lock. That tape is rated 700 psi so it might punch through. Perhaps with a strip of metal on top of a tape layer to add some strength it would at least temper it for a while. I see it's available relatively locally to me, so for $12 I'll give it a shot and a tie-over.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,111 Posts
Multi: You're saying that if I brought the two hose ends (pump side and rack side) that a shop could match them with "standard" fittings? I know the pump side has a metal pipe that perhaps could be affixed to a new hose, but I think the rack end is hose into fitting (and that's the hose that's leaking so it needs replacement). You think they could make up a replacement if they had those fittings?
Correct if you bring both ends, they can make up what you need with just a hose, Tell them how long you need it and obviously the pump end would still need to be pipe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
268 Posts
Jeff: So it has to come out through the front? Would having the radiator out matter? Or does it come out from the hole aside the radiator and it doesn't matter if the radiator's out?

I might give that tape a shot as a temp repair. It only leaks when you hit full lock. Then it squirts 4'. From what I'm told, the pressure can spike over 1000 psi at lock. That tape is rated 700 psi so it might punch through. Perhaps with a strip of metal on top of a tape layer to add some strength it would at least temper it for a while. I see it's available relatively locally to me, so for $12 I'll give it a shot and a tie-over.
I replaced mine with the radiator still on the car. I did it awhile ago and the engine wasnt in the car so the way i did it would be different.

I think you just need to remove the front bumper splash guards, headlights intercooler and move the oil cooler aside.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
473 Posts
It was pretty straightforward once the old one was out and enough parts were removed. I tried doing it with the bumper and intercooler on and it was a disaster. I did have to bend it slightly on the left side but I think that’s because I have a huge aftermarket intercooler and there isn’t much space.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top