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Discussion Starter #1
Hey,

I have a 1994 Saab 900s that is that commmon green color. I tried "Turtle Wax's" standard compounding stuff on it, but it did not work too well. By that I mean it would not rub off that easily and would not make a noticeable difference. The Car's paint job does have those common swirls on hood as well as other places from the previous owner.

So I was wondering if someone with experience knows the proper or at least good compound and wax to use to bring back the shine on my Saab.

Thanks
 

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use some kind of a claybar first, then use a cleaner wax, with carnuba then on top of that some other kind of carnuba... or another coat of the cleaner wax. then somekind of show glaze...

what i use is this

1 claybar
2 zymol cleaner wax.
3 mothers carnuba wax.
4 meguiars polish # 7 i think it is...
 

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This is a great site to get the basics from. I've been waxing cars for a long time but I learned quite a bit here. I actually like their stuff too-- though the advice could apply to any products. Mother's makes good products too. Turtle Wax is okay.

Meguiar's

Good luck and post a pic when you get it looking good!

T
 

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You use polish last ricot? You realize that if its truly polish you're using and you're applying it correctly this is taking off most of your wax?

My order: (until my porter cable is finally purchased!!!)
1. Wash pretty thoughrough.
2. Clay bar, with soapy water as a lubricant
3. Quick wash just in case there is any residue left.
4. dry.
5. polish the best I can by hand using poorboys SSR2
6. Wax using nxt tech wax.

I need to work in some sealant in there or glaze, but it just doesn't usually happen as by the time the wax has cured for 24 hours the paint is dirty again and the car has to be washed. :roll:

By the way, autopia.org is the best resource for any types of detailing questions.
 

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Funny I was just going to post on this. Detailed my wifes car the other day, here is what I did:

1) Wash with dawn to remove wax
2) wet sanded using 1500 grit wet/dry paper (used very wet) (this is really extreme, but the paint on the very top was really bad, and I wanted to go fast)
3) Wash again
4) rub out using 3M liquid rubbing compound (removes 1500+ scratches)
5) wash again
6) clay bar
7) wash again

Now for the wax, I just started using the Zaino Bros system, bought a few products, used first polish and swirl remover, put on three coats with a rub down of Zaino quick detailing spray in between each, next was three more coats of regular polish with quick detailing spray inbetween each of those also.

Overall, it came out pretty good. I think I could have been a tad bit more abrasive with the rubbing compound as the clear coat is still a little cloudy in places, but the paint is SUPER smooth, and with all the wax it beads like no other and looks like a mirror.



My reflection (sorry the camera man was a little shaky)


My reflection in my window for comparison:


Finally the car:


Yeah yeah, I don't only like Saab's! The pictures really don't do it justice, I turned off the flash to get any reflection at all, and my inexpensive digi cam opens the shutter a little longer, therfore it gets a little fuzzy since I can't hold perfectly still.

Tboy
 

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Alot of good posts here. Everyone is going to have a favorite routine. You can go with a time consuming one or something more simple. If you dont have time for an in depth one, do a simpler one. The key is do it and keep up with it. There are a few basic steps that need to happen either way. These are my opinion only.

on all step use soft cloths, microfiber is best but soft cotton at a minimum.
1) wash the car, splurge on a good wash, I prefer meguiars (I do not use dish detergent, it is generally considered too harsh)
2) clean the surface and/or remove swirls - here you would use a cleaner wax or swirl remover
3) seal it - use a good sealer here, meguiars and 3M make a good ones
4) follow up with a good carnuba wax, I use mothers.

The swirl remover should not be necessary very often especially if you use soft cloths. cleaning and sealing should be done a couple times a year depending upon your conditions, weather, garaged or outside etc.

afterward doing the above - wash often using a good car wash, in other words, keep the paint as clean as possible. Wax is your first defense against the elements, so make sure you keep up on that part.

If you prefer a more in depth process I would agree with the Stromer or Tboy, both have a good process that works.

As you can see I prefer mothers, meguiars and I do have some 3M products as well. All the products listed in previous posts zymol, ssr2 etc are great products, I am not a fan of turtle wax or anything claiming to last a long time (ie one coat lasts a year is pure BS)

There is a ton of good info here for the searching, also autopia is a good site with lots of info.
 

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Appologies if i am being thick but what is claybar and what does it do can you use it on metallics and where would i get some in the uk. My vert is due a good polish and i want to get rid of the old wax on it and start a fresh. I use MER as it is easy to apply and polishes off quite easily...but i am open to reccomandations it is Steel Grey metallic:cheesy:
 

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i used a claybar on my saab a few days ago and was very happy with it. basically it removes contaminants and pollutants from the paint, and is the first step in pain restoration, followed by cleaner wax and a caranuba wax. what's great is that after using the claybar you can actually feel how much it cleans off the paint. it is time consuming but definitely worth it in the long run.
 

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I do not like to use abrasives on my cars, but eventually you just have to to deal with oxidation and pollutants. I will sometimes start with Zymol HD Cleanse (a paint cleaner rich with citrus oils to rejuvenate the paint). For a real gleaming shine and depth of finish I have had really good luck with Meguiar's (very light) hand polish. Spatl recommended Meguiar's Tech Wax which I tried because of that. The stuff is simply amazing. It is a high tech polymer based formula that should outlast carnauba. It goes on and comes off so easily I have completely abandoned all manner of shine booster products. It is even easy on my black car, and there is no better testament to ease of use than that. I still have a lot of Zymol Concours (51% pure white carnauba) that cost $120.00 for six ounces, and when really ambitious I might slap some on over the Tech Wax. That stuff is really, really hard to get on and off.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Wow Tboy, that's some shine. I'd pay a few hundred dollars for you to do that to my car (if its possible:))

Thanks for everyone's input, it appreciated. This will be my first serious attempt at detailing my car, so I know I will mess up somewhere. So I will try washing > claying> cleaner wax> then the final wax. Later on down the road I will probably use more steps like TBoy does.

Any recommendations on what type of clay and where to get it? Pepboys only offers one kind and it comes in a package where you have to buy other stuff with it. I already bought the waxes. And Napa is old out.
 

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I just want to add that with wet-sanding you want to be very sure what you are doing. And make sure your paint isn't too thin in case you have problems.

A clay bar is very effective as something "new" to try. In other words you will get good results pretty easily and so it can easily be adopted into your routine once in a while.

The kit that Pep boys is good if you don't have too many supplies of your own. It has all you need and comes with a little wax to treat the area after you use the clay.

Soemthing a lot of people do is that they don't realize how easy the wax can come off from waxing. The reason dish soap is not reccomended is that it doesn't do too much harm on the paint itself, but it does take of wax. So I use it lightly when I'm going to rewax, but otherwise not. And clay will most definatly take off some wax, so be ready to reapply soon after the treatment.
 

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Sha_kri said:
Wow Tboy, that's some shine. I'd pay a few hundred dollars for you to do that to my car (if its possible:))

Thanks for everyone's input, it appreciated. This will be my first serious attempt at detailing my car, so I know I will mess up somewhere. So I will try washing > claying> cleaner wax> then the final wax. Later on down the road I will probably use more steps like TBoy does.

Any recommendations on what type of clay and where to get it? Pepboys only offers one kind and it comes in a package where you have to buy other stuff with it. I already bought the waxes. And Napa is old out.
You should begin with the claybar. It is not abrasive at all, and will really clean the paint before you lay down some wax. Start with the least abrasive solutions first, and hopefully that will give you the desired result. I clayed this Mazda about a year ago, and it did a really good job, but I wanted to go a step further. I still want to go a little more to see if I can get the cloudiness out of the clear. This car is really nice, but the paint is by far less than perfect. It really needs repainted as there is one part on the roof that the clear has started to peel, and the hood is pitted from rock chips. In my case, I have little risk since there are some unrepairable damage, but overall, I want to spend little, put in lots of work (my time is cheap to me) and get a real good shine. I would love to repaint the car in a few years, that would be fun. It might be one I do myself to learn how (always wanted to learn how!)

Tboy
 

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Sha_kri - The most common one is the mothers kit, which contains other stuff, several stores in Cinci that carry a large line of paint and paint care products do sell bars alone. Typically the ones that cater to the show car crowd. Autozone, pep-boys advanced auto etc do not carry just the bars at least not around here. Make some calls and I bet you find someone who does.

good luck!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
This may seem a pretty simple question, but wouldn't any clay do or any similiar clay. What about clay from say an arts and crafts store. Is this some kind of special auto clay?
 

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Sha_kri said:
This may seem a pretty simple question, but wouldn't any clay do or any similiar clay. What about clay from say an arts and crafts store. Is this some kind of special auto clay?

Good question, I don't know the answer! I would only be worried that the clay would not hold together and would just smear across the surface rather than slide across. This might mostly be a function of the lubricant used (usually a quick detailing spray) and using it on a cool surface. Still, I might be worried a little about leaving clay behind stuck in the paint. I suppose washing would clear that out though. Do you have an old car to try it out on? Or perhaps just try it out on a section of you paint, perhaps under the waistline?


Tboy
 
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