SaabCentral Forums banner
81 - 100 of 110 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,119 Posts
There's no useful baffling in any of these tanks (which in and of itself is baffling...) so when there's little gas in the tank it just doesn't get picked up. The dual pump system & black plastic bucket in the early '80s was designed to fix this issue, but earlier car you just gotta have more gas than you think in there. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Update: Added the BG to about 4 gallons of fresh fuel.. The engine started knocking, squealing (so loud that I am sure my neighbors were saying WTF is that noise - even with my garage closed) and revved to about 2k.. did that for about 30 seconds, then it all stopped.. The engine now runs smoothly, quietly and warms up properly.. all I can think is that the combination of the bad gas and residue of old fluids just made it (the engine) run harder than it needed.. Now that it's cleaned out, she purrs like the proverbial kitten and is making all the right noises.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
Discussion Starter · #85 ·
Latest update: Had the exhaust completely redone. If you ever need work done, I easily suggest going to Ed's Custom Exhaust in Springfield, MA. If you ever need Automotive Restoration done in the Enfield CT region, stay away from the shop that I started with (I won't say their name, but they are in Enfield, CT and tout their Automotive Restoration services).

Anyway, my old exhaust had the muffler in backwards, it was hanging (marginally) on one hanger and was rubbing the body.. now, it has a proper resonator, a magnaflow muffler, 4 hanger locations and the tail pipe follows the body shell so cleanly.

It no longer has that boy racer sound.. it has a good, solid semi-sport sound and the exhaust flow just seems better. Ed built the exhaust himself, told me that he loves doing these custom jobs and he is a true craftsman... and it just looks good.

Next on the list is dropping the gas tank and having it refurbished. While they are in there, I am going to see if they can run a line to the very bottom of the tank so that I can avoid the low fuel issues that Justin called out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Is it a steel tank or plastic? I restored my 88 Saab Spg and did not pull the Tank. I went in through the Fuel Pump and was able to hand clean the inside, it is plastic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
Discussion Starter · #87 ·
Mine is one of the original metal ones. I made the mistake of having it 'refurbished' 4+ years ago and all they did was do a basic cleaning and then coat it with a polymer that breaks down over time. It gummed up 2 fuel pumps and fuel filters. So, I am going to drain it, drop it and take it to a shop that will cut it open, clean it, coat it and rebuild it totally.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Mine is one of the original metal ones. I made the mistake of having it 'refurbished' 4+ years ago and all they did was do a basic cleaning and then coat it with a polymer that breaks down over time. It gummed up 2 fuel pumps and fuel filters. So, I am going to drain it, drop it and take it to a shop that will cut it open, clean it, coat it and rebuild it totally.
Don't cut it. I refurbished a steel gas tank on my classic car, My 72 Opel Gt. I pulled the tank,(no mean feat), Car Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive parking light
used East woods gas tank refurbishing Kit POR-15 Fuel Tank Repair Kit or https://por15.com/products/fuel-tank-repair-kit. Por is a few dollars cheaper but both will get you there. I've used PORs product on a military vehicle I collect, still working as of yesterday. Here's a couple of pictures of my classic stuff. Car Wheel Tire Automotive parking light Vehicle
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
Discussion Starter · #89 ·
The company that refurbished my tank before coated it with something that actually turns the gas red, so I can't do the normal drop and shake cleaning process because it won't get everything out. So, to be safe, I just want to sand blast the hell out of it and be sure that I got all the old coating out. Besides, if a better fuel pickup tube can be added at the same time, I can actually not worry about fuel starvation when I get below 1/3 tank.

POR is an awesome product though.. I've used it on the floor pans and it holds up to everything so far.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
The company that refurbished my tank before coated it with something that actually turns the gas red, so I can't do the normal drop and shake cleaning process because it won't get everything out. So, to be safe, I just want to sand blast the hell out of it and be sure that I got all the old coating out. Besides, if a better fuel pickup tube can be added at the same time, I can actually not worry about fuel starvation when I get below 1/3 tank.

POR is an awesome product though.. I've used it on the floor pans and it holds up to everything so far.
One solution I've seen short of cutting the tank open is to pour in some thousands of BBs and attach the tank to a cement mixer, or in more extreme cases a drive wheel of a blocked and jacked-up car, and set to spin around with the BBs shot-peening everything in the tank. The before-and-after pics I've seen have been amazing.
As a welder, I get very leery of cutting open a fuel tank, there are just a lot of ways that can be a bad thing with pockets of trapped fuel, solvent vapor in the pores, or the old coating catching fire. If you do have the shop open it up, make sure to have them very carefully check around the hose fittings for looseness. In my case the main filler line developed a crack and was seeping fuel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
Discussion Starter · #91 ·
One solution I've seen short of cutting the tank open is to pour in some thousands of BBs and attach the tank to a cement mixer, or in more extreme cases a drive wheel of a blocked and jacked-up car, and set to spin around with the BBs shot-peening everything in the tank. The before-and-after pics I've seen have been amazing.
As a welder, I get very leery of cutting open a fuel tank, there are just a lot of ways that can be a bad thing with pockets of trapped fuel, solvent vapor in the pores, or the old coating catching fire. If you do have the shop open it up, make sure to have them very carefully check around the hose fittings for looseness. In my case the main filler line developed a crack and was seeping fuel.
Great advice and will do.
I really like the idea of the BBs though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
778 Posts
BB's, screws...just make sure its magnetic or you'll have a terrible time making sure they're all out. If you didn't have the lining I would say just do electrolysis since its otherwise perfect for such an oddly shaped object.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
Discussion Starter · #93 ·
When I first got the lining installed, the assumption was that I'd be driving the car in the same year. Almost 5 years later, I'm sure that the thing that ate that liner was the old, stale, gas that sat there for a while. So, I need to get something done that will hold up against the new assumption that the car will not be as active as originally planned since I now work from home and put maybe 200 miles on my truck per month now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Update: The car is out getting totally sanded down because the weather here is just too cold and my garage is just small enough that I can't do the final work without getting dust everywhere.. plan is to pick it up 1/15/22 then get it to the painter... If everything goes well, I could get the car back by 2/1 and can then get it to the upholsterer for headliner and rear deck and then the reassembly process begins!!
Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Hood
Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Hood
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
652 Posts
It looks like it has the common vintage 99 affliction where the suspension gets jacked up while it's being restored. I thought mine drove OK that way for years, but the truth was it was just too loopy, especially when I hit bumps and it would wander. Lowering springs up front did wonders for how it drives now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Oh yes.. it's high in the front. My plan is to get the car painted and fully assembled (including a full tank of gas) to see how it sits. Once I have that measurement, I am going to likely need to cut the springs down as what I have are the shortest that I could find that fit the updated suspension.

The alternative that I have been noodling over is to see what it'd take to install coil overs that would then allow me to really fine tune both the height and softness that I might want.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,119 Posts
Poke around saabrally.com - there are a few conversations about height adjustable suspension options. I use adjustable spring perches on the '85 SPG.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
Discussion Starter · #99 ·
I'll give it a look.
Thank you.
I was starting to sketch out what I might need to do so that the setup is stout enough to take the weight and wear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,119 Posts
If you don't have complex needs, the adjustable perches work great and require minimal work. If you want actual coilovers, more adjustment, etc. things get complicated very quickly due to the design of the front suspension and the fact it's FWD.
 
81 - 100 of 110 Posts
Top