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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
I would think for a once every 100k or so, a little engine lift isn't so bad. You really only need to disconnect the shifter linkage, unbolt the mounts, and then jack the transmission up. It's not awful. I mean, you basically have to do that for a 9-3 V6 from the factory! :)

Edit: I wonder if you could slot the water pump flange on that one bolt so you would only need to loosen it and not remove it entirely. Or, maybe replace the bolt with a stud?
Man.. I wish you were close by.. I have taught myself most of what I have done, but I could learn a lot from you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Replaced the water pump yesterday... it only took 20 minutes to replace the pump itself, but the whole project took 4.5 hours as I needed to remove the whole front assembly in order to get to the front engine mount, remove it and drop the front of the engine an inch - which pivoted the engine just enough to give me space to remove the pulley and get to that final 5th bolt... then reassemble the whole thing...

A side benefit - besides addressing the leak at the pump - was that I corrected the angle of the alternator just enough to get rid of the belt squeal that it had and reseated the radiator so that the AC condenser has a better fit.

Next project is to install the battery relocation that my wife got me for my birthday..
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
On the plus side, I have learned so much over the last years and now I feel comfortable and confident that I can follow the instructions in the service manual.
 

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Yeah, and that's super helpful when driving an old car. Finding some guy who can fix your problem is really hard. Knowing you can at least read the service manual means you can rely on yourself more often. Even if the problem can't be fixed, being able to get the information to determine whether you can limp it along or need to call a tow truck is invaluable. Of course, the downside is that when something breaks, you've only yourself to blame. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Justin, I'm dropping the gas tank to have it refurbished. The shop that did it 4 years ago used an interior coating that is breaking down in the gas. I ran some of that corrupted fuel through the engine - which would explain the varnish like smell and why the first fuel pump started to fail - but is there a product that you have used that might clean out the fuel system safely once I get the tank back and installed?
 

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Oof... do you know what the coating was? I think that would be a determining factor in what you use to get it out, or if it's even necessary. Because it's a return system, probably my only real concern would be the injectors... that's where any buildup would occur.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Don't know what the coating is/was. It's turning the fuel red though. I was leaning toward the Lucas brand, but if there are better options, I'd rather go that route.
 

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Pretty much all those fuel system cleaners come in two flavors - with PEA and without. Broadly speaking, PEA is the good stuff - about the strongest detergent there is. All else equal, I would choose BG44K. I think you'd be hard pressed to find something better.

Assuming the tank is now gone, I would try and flush the lines with air and then change the filter and throw in some BG44K if you feel it.
 

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Totally. I did almost exactly that in my SPG recently... I just bypassed the fuel pressure regulator and let the pump circulate fuel & cleaner around the system for a while. Be cautious about ratios if you're not using a fuel tank - most cleaners are intended for 10 or 20 gallons of gas. If you're just using a gallon, you'll need very little cleaner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Totally. I did almost exactly that in my SPG recently... I just bypassed the fuel pressure regulator and let the pump circulate fuel & cleaner around the system for a while. Be cautious about ratios if you're not using a fuel tank - most cleaners are intended for 10 or 20 gallons of gas. If you're just using a gallon, you'll need very little cleaner.
Perfect.. ordering it now. Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Justin... need another opinion.
I drained the bad gas out of the tank, put in 2 gallons of fresh gas with a little of the BG.
The car cranks well enough and I can hear the pump running, but it won't start / run. I cracked open the fuel rail a little and fuel came out, but I wonder if I'm vapor locked somewhere and need to open the fuel rail all the way to get potential air pockets out.

Is there another approach that you can think of?
Michael
 

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The system is a return system, so air will be automatically purged within 5-10 seconds of cranking. Vapor lock isn't possible.

I don't know how you configured your fuel pump, but I will mention to you that using an LH-style fuel pump with a <1982 fuel tank means the pump can't reach the bottom of the tank and it will cavitate. I need to keep at least 5 gallons in my 1980 at all times to ensure that doesn't happen.

Have you verified that the injection system isn't suffering some unrelated fault? You've got spark and injector pulse?
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
The system is a return system, so air will be automatically purged within 5-10 seconds of cranking. Vapor lock isn't possible.

I don't know how you configured your fuel pump, but I will mention to you that using an LH-style fuel pump with a <1982 fuel tank means the pump can't reach the bottom of the tank and it will cavitate. I need to keep at least 5 gallons in my 1980 at all times to ensure that doesn't happen.

Have you verified that the injection system isn't suffering some unrelated fault? You've got spark and injector pulse?
You saved the day.. I got the tank up to 1/4 tank and she fired right up. Thank you very much (again). I never had that issue with my 1980 GLi, so I would never have thought of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Hard to tell from that picture, but the pump is mounted on the body (rear seat wall) ahead of the axle on the right hand side the line on the right is the inlet and the line on the left is what runs to the engine.
 
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