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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
No.. I checked with the VintageAir tech and that solution would allow me to run a belt in the spaces that have the room and can be run safely. In hindsight, I'd have skipped adding AC and kept the original heater box in place. But now that I've committed to that course of action, this solution should allow for a good layout that fits inside the engine bay and will give me some very good options.
 

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I get it, I'm just saying the duplex belt on the factory configuration is because a single v-belt is not sufficient to reliably drive a 75a alternator... according to Bosch anyway. Extending the distance between the crank, water pump, and alternator will mean a longer belt more susceptible to stretch, and losing 50% of the contact (by losing a belt...) will make that situation a bit tenuous. Then you're increasing drag on the alternator pulley by running the AC from it on top. I'm not saying it won't work, but I would expect short belt life and a lot of slipping. You might consider increasing wrap on the alternator belt by adding an idler pulley... although with v-belts (vs serpentine) that will tend to further shorten belt life.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Update.. There was just enough space to run a belt from the main pulley to the AC Compressor. So, while tight, it can work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Posting pictures soon... I meant to take some yesterday when I was there, but didn't have time.. If I can get out in the morning, I'm taking a bunch. The shop that has it now has done all of the finish work that I couldn't and pretty much guarantee that I'm going to have a good, strong, daily driver that I can trust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
ok. no pictures as I just did not have time today. Still a lot of work to do before getting my 99 on the road. That said, it ran today and sounded freaking awesome. I have spent far more than I even imagined, but this car is what I want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Update.. electrical is 100% replaced. All that I want to do now is wire in the 3rd brake light that I want to have. What's next is to run the defrost tubing and tighten up the AC compression fittings. Then paint and start the reassembly - including addressing some of the mechanical items that are more nits than anything else.
278434
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
3rd brakelight you say! Where's it gonna go?
Right on the rear shelf. I found one that is both bright and low profile, so I can mount it at the window sill level and run the wire through the rear defroster vents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Update.. car is out for paint and, when I get it back, I should be on the homeward stretch. To do are:
  • Take the car to a local shop to look at why the engine is running a little rough and doesn't really idle until warmed up
  • Take the car to another local shop to have the rear shelf recovered and headliner replaced
  • Install and wire up an 18-wheeler cab defroster to be the rear window defroster
  • Install the fresh air tubing for the vents and front defrosters
  • Install/lay the heat and sound-proofing on the floor
  • Wire up the radio / driving lights and 3rd brake light
  • Reinstall ALL the glass
  • Reinstall the carpets, door cards, panels, padding and seats
  • Possibly dremel out a notch in the shifter to allow for a cleaner shift into 5th gear

Drive it and have fun.. pictures forth coming
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
So, not a good update.. went to pick up my car last Sunday morning (expecting it to be ready to go). Not only was it not done, the sanding wasn't done, no primer anywhere, the hood was folded over in one of the corners near the driver's side door BUT it had been left outside - which is a big deal since it has no glass, trim or protection from the elements. Hell, not even covered by a tarp.

Obviously, it was time to take it back and see what sort of refund I'll get (some work was done, but not completed).

A shop down the street that has been in business for 40+ years offered to take on the project and the owner even drove to my house to check the car out. He (the owner) gave me guidance on what I could do to save myself a bunch of money and get a much better result at the end of the day. So, I'm going to sand to bare metal a piece at a time (trunk lid, doors and hood) and get them to him to work on individually. After that, I'll sand the car fully and deliver that to him.

Rather than be on the road in June as I'd hoped, it'll be closer to August.. not awesome, but hey.... lesson learned that it's sometimes better to just suck it up and go to the old-school pros.
 

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Ugh, that sucks. It's really hard to find quality paint work that doesn't cost a damn fortune... there is just a huge gap between "cheapest possible" and "show quality" ... at least around here. I had a guy but he went on to other stuff... really dreading finding someone to do the '79!
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
It does suck, but I found that the car had been repainted (really well) some time in its past, so it really is just the exterior surfaces.. I did most of the trunk lid in 2.5 hours last night (I used aircraft stripper first and then a DA sander with 80 grit) before it started to get too late to be making a lot of noise. I should finish it tonight, which means that I can take it to the body shop tomorrow morning.

I'm likely going to have to fight to get a fair rebate, but on the plus side, I am learning something new and, when the car is done, I can know that I had something with how good it looks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Update: Just dropped off the trunk lid... shop owner gave me some feedback on how to better prep the remaining panels. Based on his per hour rate, I saved $400 by doing that one panel myself. If I project out the time needed for the doors and the hood, I could end up saving another $2,000... Then, comes the body, which is likely another $2,000.. So, it might be a $3,000 paint cost, but that should get me a much better end result - which I can't complain about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
281873
281875


Current state... doors are at the body shop, trunk lid is waiting to be mounted and hood is 99% sanded - which I'll do this weekend and get it out for body work. I've also reached out to a local media blast shop to possibly do the hard to sand areas.. If I can get it painted in July and assembled in August, I might finally get it on the road in September.
 
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