I get it, I'm just saying the duplex belt on the factory configuration is because a single v-belt is not sufficient to reliably drive a 75a alternator... according to Bosch anyway. Extending the distance between the crank, water pump, and alternator will mean a longer belt more susceptible to stretch, and losing 50% of the contact (by losing a belt...) will make that situation a bit tenuous. Then you're increasing drag on the alternator pulley by running the AC from it on top. I'm not saying it won't work, but I would expect short belt life and a lot of slipping. You might consider increasing wrap on the alternator belt by adding an idler pulley... although with v-belts (vs serpentine) that will tend to further shorten belt life.
Ugh, that sucks. It's really hard to find quality paint work that doesn't cost a damn fortune... there is just a huge gap between "cheapest possible" and "show quality" ... at least around here. I had a guy but he went on to other stuff... really dreading finding someone to do the '79!
I used Speedhut in my '85 SPG and have been happy. The speedo is electrically driven (not cable or GPS) and has some quirky behavior when slowing down, but it's fine in practice. No regrets about that purchase!
I think this is a known annoyance of 16v in a 99... I've seen some big recesses put into the firewall to make it easier, and I think some folks used electric water pumps. I helped a friend do this on 99 with a 16vT in it once and we virtually lifted the motor out of the car.
I would think for a once every 100k or so, a little engine lift isn't so bad. You really only need to disconnect the shifter linkage, unbolt the mounts, and then jack the transmission up. It's not awful. I mean, you basically have to do that for a 9-3 V6 from the factory!
Edit: I wonder if you could slot the water pump flange on that one bolt so you would only need to loosen it and not remove it entirely. Or, maybe replace the bolt with a stud?
Yeah, and that's super helpful when driving an old car. Finding some guy who can fix your problem is really hard. Knowing you can at least read the service manual means you can rely on yourself more often. Even if the problem can't be fixed, being able to get the information to determine whether you can limp it along or need to call a tow truck is invaluable. Of course, the downside is that when something breaks, you've only yourself to blame.
Oof... do you know what the coating was? I think that would be a determining factor in what you use to get it out, or if it's even necessary. Because it's a return system, probably my only real concern would be the injectors... that's where any buildup would occur.
Pretty much all those fuel system cleaners come in two flavors - with PEA and without. Broadly speaking, PEA is the good stuff - about the strongest detergent there is. All else equal, I would choose BG44K. I think you'd be hard pressed to find something better.
Assuming the tank is now gone, I would try and flush the lines with air and then change the filter and throw in some BG44K if you feel it.
Totally. I did almost exactly that in my SPG recently... I just bypassed the fuel pressure regulator and let the pump circulate fuel & cleaner around the system for a while. Be cautious about ratios if you're not using a fuel tank - most cleaners are intended for 10 or 20 gallons of gas. If you're just using a gallon, you'll need very little cleaner.
The system is a return system, so air will be automatically purged within 5-10 seconds of cranking. Vapor lock isn't possible.
I don't know how you configured your fuel pump, but I will mention to you that using an LH-style fuel pump with a <1982 fuel tank means the pump can't reach the bottom of the tank and it will cavitate. I need to keep at least 5 gallons in my 1980 at all times to ensure that doesn't happen.
Have you verified that the injection system isn't suffering some unrelated fault? You've got spark and injector pulse?