[chk]

I love my 01 95 wagon. Just had the 90k service and all is well. However, at this stage, would there be recommendations to making any preventative replacements, like: turbo, radiator, cassette, etc?

Any suggestions are welcome.

PS: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" has already been suggested.

 

[pab95]

A couple suggestions if not already replaced would be the coolant bypass valve and the crankcase position sensor. The turbo I would not touch until you start getting the blue smoke at startup. The other ones you mentioned I would not replace until you have a failure.

 

[GONE FISHING]

I would ensure the servicing is done as the manual, and then "if it aint broke, dont fix it".

Then again :-
1) If you haven't got a V6 or Aero I would have a sump drop to check for sludge.
2) Between services, have an additional oil and filter change.
3) No matter what engine you have, I would use Fully Synth oil.

But thats just me.

Pete

 

[Chris 9-5]

Then again :-
1) If you haven't got a V6 or Aero I would have a sump drop to check for sludge.
2) Between services, have an additional oil and filter change.
3) No matter what engine you have, I would use Fully Synth oil.

But thats just me.

Pete

Great advice Pete I agree totally.........

 

[SectorNine50]

I would ensure the servicing is done as the manual, and then "if it aint broke, dont fix it".

Then again :-
1) If you haven't got a V6 or Aero I would have a sump drop to check for sludge.
2) Between services, have an additional oil and filter change.
3) No matter what engine you have, I would use Fully Synth oil.

But thats just me.

Pete

I personally think you should have your sump checked even if you have an Aero, we've had a couple go down to sludge I believe.

 

[chk]

All - thanks for the replies. I have service done by Saab and by the book (with stamps in the servie book) I also do use full synth and change every 3K. I have the turbo, so is the sump drop check valid for me or a 6 cyl?

 

[GONE FISHING]

What engine have you got?

Mine's a 3.0 V6 petrol so I most likely wont suffer with sludge.
But take into consideration what sector said. I would have ANY 4 cylinder checked.
Have you owned the car from new?
Your oil change every 3K is good, but did previous owners do that.
Also:- The oil put in by dealers would have been SEMI synth, unless you have an Aero or you told them to use FULLY synth.

 

[chk]

What engine have you got?

I've got the 2.3 Turbo. I bought it used but have the records from the previous owner at the dealer and synth was used and is what I specifiy at service. However, I will have them check for sludge now that it has been brought up in this thread.


Thanks

 

[GONE FISHING]

It is very important that we know all the details of your engine eg :-

2.0 LPT

Is a low pressure garret turbo. Known to suffer sludge. Because SAAB recommend SEMI synthetic oil.

2.3 LPT

Is a low pressure garret turbo. Known to suffer sludge. Because SAAB recommend SEMI synthetic oil.

2.3 Aero

Is a High pressure Mitsubishi turbo. Known to be more resistant to sludge. Because SAAB recommend FULLY synthetic oil

3.0 V6 Petrol

Is a low pressure garret turbo. Very resistant to sludge. Because it is a totally different engine and crank ventilation system.



Also the Mitsubishi turbo is Much more reliable than the Garrets



We need to know of any tuning mods. Any tuning mod on a LPT puts more pressure on a garret turbo (possibly contributing to premature failure).

Another common mistake is thinking all synthetics are the same “WRONG”

SEMI Synthetic is NO GOOD for turbo’s, it won’t stand the heat and high revs of a turbo.(this is a BIG contribution to sludge).

If your service history states “synthetic” I would bet a pint (of real ale) it was SEMI synthetic.



FULLY Synthetic is the ONLY way to go.



I guess that yours is a 2.3 LPT , because if it was a Aero the seller would have said so.

The Aero is worth a lot more than a LPT.



Pete

 

[chk]

Pete


thanks for the reply. I have always required a full synth Mobil One in the car. And your right, if you don't specify, the saab dealer will put down on the work order semi synth. If you don't catch it, that's what you'll get. I have had one mechanic tell me I had the high pressure turbo. But that just one mechanic and I have no knowlege on how to verify his claim. How do you tell if it is the high pressure or low.

My engine is the 2.3 turbo, but not an Aero.

 

[GONE FISHING]

I'll have to let someone else advise on how to tell the different turbo's apart as my V6 is totally different to the 4's.

Pete

 

[Chris 9-5]

How do you tell if it is the high pressure or low.

My engine is the 2.3 turbo, but not an Aero.

The aero has the TD-04 turbo (HOT) and the normal 2.3 has the Garrett G17 thingy.(Luke Warm)

Regarding the dealer /manual / manufacturer advise about oil - forget it - FULLY SYNTHETIC only

 

[chk]

Obviously, Chris, you don't like the Garrett G17 thingy. Can you put the TD-04 turbo on the normal 2.3?

 

[SectorNine50]

Obviously, Chris, you don't like the Garrett G17 thingy. Can you put the TD-04 turbo on the normal 2.3?

Yup, if you read your thread about the upgrades on your 01 wagon, it's mentioned a couple times, but you need to make sure you have an Aero ecu to go along with it.

 

[StX221]

Yup, if you read your thread about the upgrades on your 01 wagon, it's mentioned a couple times, but you need to make sure you have an Aero ecu to go along with it.

Actually, if you just upgrade the turbo, the stock lpt ecu will adapt nicely to it.
For a power increase, you would want the aero ecu!

 

[MI-Scott]

I have an 03 Linear that just hit 90K (Miles) and definitely I would agree with what has been stated (especially Crank.Pos.Sensor) as well as make sure you have the Crankcase fix #6.

In addition, I think the next thing is to change the trans. fluid if the dealer didn't as well as flush the brake fluid if the dealer didn't. I would change the timing belt and idler pulley (and go to the short belt setup) since if that breaks while running, that will be some financial pain.

I really think this cars are great at 60-90K. They are past warranty time so no guilt in modifications, but the engines are definitely up to 200K with just a little TLC.

Also (athough not something that going to cause breakdown), you might start looking into upgrading your springs and shocks. 90K is about when things get tired from what I'm feeling in the road.

 

[SectorNine50]

Actually, if you just upgrade the turbo, the stock lpt ecu will adapt nicely to it.
For a power increase, you would want the aero ecu!

My understanding is that there will be tons of lag.

 

[chk]

I've been trying to follow both my posts and the replies have been numerous and very helpful.

I going to try and pick my way through all the recommendations made here through the winter.

Thanks again.

 

[chk]

Also what is Crankcase fix #6.

 

[MI-Scott]

You can get the Crankcase Ventilation Fix Kit #6 here

http://www.genuinesaab.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=47_67&products_id=456

There is a post on this site somewhere (the journey to find it will bring about untold nuggets of wisdom) swith beautiful picture and screwdriver pointing to what to look at. Took about 2 hours to do. This fix is supposed to alleviate all the sludge issue of the 2.3 that have been discussed earlier on in this thread.