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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all-

Okay, I just had my second run-in with the power window lifts on my 2000 9-5. In less than 9 months since I've owned the car, both front windows have made a loud snapping sound and then have fallen into the doors. The glass is fine, the electric motor still works, but it seems like part of the track, or the piece that suspends the glass just breaks and then the pane tumbles to the inside bottom of the door. The one that just busted was the driver's door window, which is particularly annoying.

Any thoughts? What is going on here? Anyone else have this happen? Needless to say, I grow increasingly more weary to even open the windows for fear they will make their last trip up or down... (including the plastic clip that prevents the sunroof from closing properly, a full 2/5 of the glass openings in the car are currently non-functional- I feel like I am driving in an aquarium!)

Thanks,

JAS
 

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Jas, can only speak as i find but i've never had any problems with my windows, mine is a similar vintage to yours as well. I have heard of the plastic runner inside the door that holds the window in place breaking before now however. It seems you've become a victim of this on both doors which is c**p luck.:(
 

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Same here, they make an awful noise if they are open and the door gets slammed, but never had a problem, sorry cant help buddy :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hmmm. Shutting the doors with the windows down never made a horrible noise, certainly nothing that ever indicated anythig was about to break- actually, all 4 doors sound tight, not rattly, when they are closed.


That said, there was no mistaking the loud crack that proceeded each window's descent off its track/tumble down into the door... !
 
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My drivers window did this when I first got the car. The bottom of the window attaches to the lift mech by way of two small green rollers that fix to seperate lifting plates. It is generally the front one of these that breaks. According to my local dealership this is not an un-common problem. If you are ok at DIY you can fix it yourself, it took me about an hour. The rollers come as a pair and are only a couple of £$£$.

Usually these kind of faults are caused by one the rollers that attach the window to the lifting mech. You can repair this yourself, but I would only recommend to someone with reasonbly confident DIY skills.. The two little rollers can be ordered from Saab and will cost a couple of quid. The cheapest thing I have ever bought from Saab. :D

1/ Lower the window, remove black plastic door trim starting at the mirror adjustment switch working upwards (Remember to unclip the mirror switch conection) the trim is only held on by press studs. You can do this by hand and dont need any tools.

2/ The door panel comes away easily from the door. It is held on by 3 screw bolts (two in the handle and one in the door opener, all three have caps on which can be removed with a small screwdriver) and then a number of press studs around the door panel , the door pull will come off by gently levering it from the left as you look at it. Once the panel is free from the press studs carefully wriggle the whole panel upwards so that the rubber sill at the top comes away from the car but is left on the panel, the door lock will just fall through and doesnt need to be taken off, be a little careful when removing the panel as it there is a number of electrical connectors, ie boot switch, petrol switch and bottom sill light ( these are all colour coded.)

3/ Once the panel has been removed you will see a grey foam like condensation/sound panel covering the inner door, it is only held on by double sided tape and with care can be pealed away.

4/ At this point I had a coffee and a ciggy and wondered if maybe I had bitten off more than I can chew :confused: Fear not .....

5/ You will now see the inner workings of the door, the window mech works with a scissor action type of affair, if you lift the window up a little you will see two tracks come into view with a bright green roller on each attached to the lifting arm. It was one of these that had worn causing the window to tilt forward. Saab sell the rollers, they cost a massive £2 each (the cheapest thing I have ever bought from Saab)

6/ This is where things get fiddly, the rollers are held in place by a circlip at the front, your new rollers will have circlips on so you will see how they work. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the circlip then pull out the lifting mech. Replace the roller and push back in the lifting arm, at first I thought I had the wrong rollers as the lifting arm didnt seem to go back in the roller, eventually I used a pair of molegrips to squeeze the roller and lifting arm together and it popped into place :). Put circlip back.. and test window, if the window is still catching slightly there is a nut half way up the door on the right, that adjust the tilt back or forth.

7/ I gave the window seal a good wipe around and clean up and took the oportunity to greese up all the lifting mech. Use silicon spray and give the rubber window seals a good spray. This really helps sticky windows..

8/ To put back together you go in reverse. You will need to source some double sided tape to replace the foam condensation/sound panel.

9/ When it comes to putting the door panel back on put the top seal in place first along with the door lock.

Whole job took about an hour, and I had grazed knuckles, beware its quite sharp inside the door and access is not easy..... But voila all is great now.

if you need any other info on this repair please message me and I will help if I can....Finn


Finn :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hey thanks, Finn-

Since I am in the middle of moving house, and have no idea where any of my tools are packed away, I'll likely have my Saab indy take care of it. I shall keep the directions for future reference, though, is this is not an uncommon thing...

Cheers,

JAS
 
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