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C900's are getting harder to find in salvage yards, so I decided to have a go at repairing my inoperative power window switch on my '92 vert. The first task was to disassemble the switch. The '92 switch has 13 snap tabs of which 4 are double tabs. I cut six 2" long pieces from a stainless steel strip of steel taken from a windshild wiper blade. The stainless strip was about 1/8" wide by .020 thick by 16" long. I then used a thin knife blade to pry out the side of the switch top at the middle tab. I then inserted one 2" long piece of stainless over the tab catch. I did this on the 3 sets of tabs on each side of the switch so that the side tab catches on all these sets had a stainless steel strip over them. I then inserted the knife blade on the end of the top cover that had only one tab. Presto the top lifted off the bottom of the switch. The movable contact arms fell off the base. I used a cotton cloth and a sharp knife to clean the fixed contacts on the bottom and the contacts on the movable contact arms. I used the knife to scrape away the burned material from the contact surfac. After cleaning the contacts, the moveable contact arms were re-installed (cutouts on the moveable arms mounted on the arm supports in the switch base). I put a small dab of vaseline in each moveable arm. as lube for the spring loaded pins. With all contact arms in position, I carefully snapped the top back on. Switch worked fine. I also rebuilt the power window switch on my '90 vert. The contacts were burnt worse than the '92 and the spring loaded pins were melted and had to be replaced. Rebuilt '90 switch worked fine too.

Parts: Parts to rebuild C900 power window switches can be taken from NG900 switches which are more plentiful. I take the moveable contact arms and the spring loaded plastic pins from NG900 switches as they are the same as C900 components. Use pliers to grasp the spring loaded pins and pull and they come right out. If your C900 switch has over heated the moveable arm from burned contacts, the spring loaded pin in your switch will be melted and will no longer function correctly. Replace the pin with a good one from a NG900 and you are in business.

If your power windows don't work, I recommend that you clean the switch contacts first as it is faster and easier than going into the door. Burned contacts are the most common mode of failure that I have experienced.
 

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Burned contacts are the most common mode of failure that I have experienced.
probably due to people holding onto the switch for an extra second or two? when it's actually done its job, and window is up or down
 

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Is the circuit board the same in the NG900 like a 1991?
I cleaned out my contacts, and even the volts and ohms are fine, windows fine (changed wires to the other side), yet all i get from the contacts in question is a clicking sound.
 

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Yes, I've switch the driver and passenger wires. And tested the contacts hot with a volt meter.
The clicking comes from the switch box.

Ya, I've ruled out everything except the circuit board. :confused:
 

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Peter, why don't you stick to one thread? You have two running on this subject and it's confusing for the rest of us. Well me anyway.:nono; Apologies, you didn't start the thread. The clicking in the switch box is probably the one-shot relay operating.
 

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Hehe sorry, just wanted to ask here if I can take a switch from a new NG 900.

Ok, have to find a way to link the 2 threads, maybe I go back to mine and give a link here (for the next searcher)

Do you have any further ideas about repairing the electronics? I really don't want to give up on it yet (unless I find a super super cheap switch from an NG ;)
 

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There are quite a few on eBay. From the NG and 9000 they are plug and play although you may get an extra switch that you don't use.
 

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Peter, why don't you stick to one thread? You have two running on this subject and it's confusing for the rest of us.
Peter's got the fever peva. I remember when I first got mine... I spent days on here soaking up every word, asking what now seem like stupid questions. It's good to see some enthusiasm! He'll settle down.:cheesy:
 

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:lol:

:eek: SAAAAAB

hey, where at in Colorado you? i used to live in Boulder, had a couple 900's there :) got such a kick driving up 1-70 outa denver with my old turbo, passing all the new cars.
 

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:lol:

:eek: SAAAAAB

hey, where at in Colorado you? i used to live in Boulder, had a couple 900's there :) got such a kick driving up 1-70 outa denver with my old turbo, passing all the new cars.
I went to school in Boulder a loooooooooooooooooooooong time ago. I live in Canon City now. And no... I don't work or live in the prison system. :D
 

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Power Window Switch insight:

I too had an issue today with my sunroof switch whereby when I initially pushed the switch foreword, the sunroof would flap open. When I pushed rearward, there was no response. So I had to use the Allen wrench to close the roof. So I went ahead and "popped" out the switch from underneath, as compared to trying to prying it out, and used some silicon dielectric grease and lubed up the switch terminals using a plastic toothpick. I then noticed that by using the toothpick I could gently push in the tabs (1-6) if I had to, but the DI-Grease ended up doing the job!! Sunroof retracts once again!!!
 
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