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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just thought I'd share with the class, my switches were getting dicey so I decided to take a look inside.



This was post-cleaning, I used a dremel cup-shaped wire brush bit to get the contacts and a small nylon brush bit to clean out the dirt and gunk. It was pretty dirty to begin with, so no surprise the switches weren't making good contact.

I'm getting ready to put it back together, but was wondering if anyone's got any tips on lining everything up. Also, if you look at the copper tabs that rest on the switches, they have small notches, does it matter if they are aligned a certain way?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I took another look, here's the best way to get it back together:



Take all the small bits of copper, and place them into the contact patches on the board, the small notches fit into tabs on that side and everything snaps back together very easily.

Sorry if this issue has been discussed, but I always like a few pictures to look at when I'm tackling things like this, hope these help someone!
 

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Good grief! Thats a lot of switches, glad I don't have a 4 door :D

Anyway, the notches on the cooper pieces go "only" one way on a pair of "spikes" (1 pair per copper thing). You do it right and the contacts both reach, wrong and nither reach and it just looks wrong. For putting it back together I just held the switches up and pushed the contacts up from below, that way they didn't move about on me. I only had 2 to deal with though, not 3.2 billion :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Yeah, it is a lot of tiny pieces... I am not surprised that the bentley book regards the whole assembly as a black box that must be replaced as a unit if a switch goes faulty.

Seems that I'm having issues now... the rear windows work just fine but front ones don't... I've discovered that two of the 8 small pivots are different then the rest, with little indents in the center. Not sure what purpose the difference serves... I've put 4 of the 6 identical (non-indented) pieces in the rear window spots (bottom row in above picture) and those switches are working well. I have tried a few different configurations with the remaining two pairs of pivots on the front switches, but nothing seems to make them work. Before I took it apart, all the windows went up and down (most of the time). Here are the pivots that are different (outside two)...



Anybody have any ideas?
 

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fetchitfido said:
Good grief! Thats a lot of switches, glad I don't have a 4 door :D

Anyway, the notches on the cooper pieces go "only" one way on a pair of "spikes" (1 pair per copper thing). You do it right and the contacts both reach, wrong and nither reach and it just looks wrong. For putting it back together I just held the switches up and pushed the contacts up from below, that way they didn't move about on me. I only had 2 to deal with though, not 3.2 billion :p
My two of my three running 4-doors only have front power windows so the switches are in the dash. :cool: I imagine that with so many contacts there's bound to be something going wrong with the big switch assemblies eventually because of where they are located.

Craig.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
c900 said:
My two of my three running 4-doors only have front power windows so the switches are in the dash. :cool: I imagine that with so many contacts there's bound to be something going wrong with the big switch assemblies eventually because of where they are located.

Craig.
The older 900s had those dash switches, I liked them better. These ones are prone to gather dirt, water and what have you from above, especially if you accidentally leave the sunroof open and it rains... :roll:

Well, I've given up for now, it's supposed to snow tomorrow anyway and be fairly cold... I have working rear windows for now. My thoughts have moved on to digging out the snow tires... but I'll procrastinate that one 'til at least tomorrow. Our local baseball team is on their first run ever to the world series, and they'll be playing in a little bit. :cool:

I think I'll take a jaunt down to the u-pull it and look for a new set of switches some time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sure thing, not too much, really.


I used a dremel with a wire wheel to clean the contacts, quick and easy (held the small bits w/ the pliers)


I used the second-largest flat screwdriver from this set to pry the small tabs open around the edge of the switch box... there are quite a few but its easy to pry them each a little at a time and slide the screwdriver along the side to open it up.


The last pic is the brush I used to clean out the gunk. There may be other ways to get that stuff out... but I had the dremel so what the hey :cool:
 

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Is that 395 Dremel any good?

I have burnt out two of my last Multi rotar tools, I just don't want to stretch myself for a Proxon.

Good work by the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
ShadowWorks said:
Is that 395 Dremel any good?

I have burnt out two of my last Multi rotar tools, I just don't want to stretch myself for a Proxon.

Good work by the way.
I would consider it better work if I could get the dang thing back together correctly! ;oops:

That Dremel has served me well for many years, I had considered the single-speed in the store when I bought it... for a few seconds... before I opted for the more expensive and useful 395. If I ever need to buy a new one, I won't skimp. One of the more indispensible pieces in any toolkit.

EDIT: Oh and by the way, I've noticed a few blurry close-up shots of wires and such on the forum, the key is to step back a bit and use the camera's zoom, so it can focus....

And stay tuned, tomorrow I aim to solve this problem with the help of a multimeter and some wire-jumping....
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ShadowWorks said:
I just don't want to stretch myself for a Proxon.
I had never heard of Proxxon, they look to be a good brand, akin to Dewalt or whatever else considered reliable. But my Dremel is just fine and the brushes are even replaceable, if I ever get to that point in its life. To be fair, I mostly use it at its minimum speed, which is good for most things including this job
 

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Having "rebuilt" my switch box twice now I can say the wear tolerance is tighter than one would guess by looking at the pieces...

The second time I took the internals from a 4dr switch figuring the pieces used for the rear windows would have little wear--my 2dr and sun roof have been working great since.

Are the frt window contact points visibly worn lower than the rear window points? If so you could try a drop of solder on 'em to build them back up.

I'm headed to the bone yard tomorrow for my own woes--I can pick you up a switch box and mail it to you or even leave it in a ziplock bag by your favorite mile marker on I-25 :D I'm bound to be driving up soon!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Banman said:
Having "rebuilt" my switch box twice now I can say the wear tolerance is tighter than one would guess by looking at the pieces...

The second time I took the internals from a 4dr switch figuring the pieces used for the rear windows would have little wear--my 2dr and sun roof have been working great since.

Are the frt window contact points visibly worn lower than the rear window points? If so you could try a drop of solder on 'em to build them back up.

I'm headed to the bone yard tomorrow for my own woes--I can pick you up a switch box and mail it to you or even leave it in a ziplock bag by your favorite mile marker on I-25 :D I'm bound to be driving up soon!
Solder... that's a great idea!

On the Bone Yard... do you know one that has a lotta saabs? I'd be willing to drive somewhat far to get to one if they had a decent selection... I've been going to this place in Aurora but they almost never have what I need.. usually one or two 900s in the whole yard, already picked clean by Sunday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hmmm... I dabbed solder on the contacts, but still no dice. Back to the drawing board...

BTW if one tries this technique, be careful not to put too much solder on there, or the switches won't have room to pivot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks! I had a feeling that's where they went... good to know for sure. I've tried it in those positions and it's still not cooperating. I think I'll try some more cleaning and maybe try jumping each pair of contacts just to make sure there aren't other problems.

Strangely enough, I haven't thought of checking the fuses since I took out the switch pack initially.

Again, nice gallery, thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the PM banman..

So I finally got it working. I wish I could say what I did to make it work; I cleaned everything again, put it together, and changed out the blown fuse for the front windows, and the second I plugged it in and switched the key on, the passenger window started rolling down, got about halfway, and the fuse blew again.

So, I picked up a box of fuses, took apart the switches again, cleaned it again as best I could, said a little prayer (or something to that effect - lots of 4-letter words), snapped it back together again, being especially careful to keep all the switches in their neutral positions... and voila... everything works beautifully.

The only thing I can think of is that some gunk got in there, and it was bridging the small gap between +12 and ground. What a finnicky piece of electronics!
 

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Posting in a very old tread! I'm doing a switchpack repair at the moment (a double-switch only one out of my black 1992 2.1 3-door hatch with no moonroof) and I'm cleaning up the contacts with a combination of a contact file (very fine teeth and very flat), some very fine emery paper, a small flat-bladed screwdriver, and some contact cleaner/lube aerosol.

The contact points for the inner two movable v-fingers are quite badly arc-damaged and there seems to be some grease (probably the stuff used to lube where the switch cap actuators run in the v-fingers) that's got down onto the fixed contact 'circuit board'.

Got a few pics which I'll upload shortly.

Craig.
 

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Some more pics

Ok after I fixed up all the contacts the problem still existed so I swapped the switchpack out of my 9000 (1990 9k carlsson) to see if that worked, and it did, so the problem is definitely in the switchback out of the 900, but not the contacts, so I think it's the electronics.

Anyway here are two pics of the internals:



flickr page



flickr page

When I get a chance I'll see if I can do a component-level repair to the electronics (if that's the problem). In the meantime I'm getting a spare used switchpack to replace it.

Craig.
 
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