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Discussion Starter #1
Gooday ,
Car is a 2003 9-3 convertible, I picked up a nice set of electic seats from a same maodel wreck ,
Expected Plug n play .
The loom from the car under the seat does not have 12v at the appropriate pin on the connector, but it does have 12v at the appropriate Fuse (5)
do i need to use tech 2 for the car to know of seat upgrade ? or is it possible the appropriate relay isnt fitted ?
Thanks ,
 

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Likewise. I referred to the wiring diagram and installed every wire that I didn’t have. Seem to recall this included power from the fuse panel, inserting the absent fuse terminals, a wire between left and right seats, one to the TWICE and one to the iBus. The latter enables the “beep” when you program a new setting. I ended up with full functionality but there are shortcut methods where the seats motor but without all the bells and whistles. (This was for motorised, not heated).

Doug
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Likewise. I referred to the wiring diagram and installed every wire that I didn’t have. Seem to recall this included power from the fuse panel, inserting the absent fuse terminals, a wire between left and right seats, one to the TWICE and one to the iBus. The latter enables the “beep” when you program a new setting. I ended up with full functionality but there are shortcut methods where the seats motor but without all the bells and whistles. (This was for motorised, not heated).

Doug
Thanks Doug and Bob , I had hoped prewired, the 12v wire is already there (red/blue), just not live
 

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Thanks Doug and Bob , I had hoped prewired, the 12v wire is already there (red/blue), just not live
I'd be surprised if that were true... my car lacked the high amp wiring for the seat power as well as the other tidbits. It had the inbound fuse terminals, but nothing on the outbound side. But, it was an '01, by '03 they might have started using just one harness (couldn't understand why they found it worthwhile to have a production line change for 10' of wire and a few terminals, so maybe they concluded the same thing).

Go through my original post and check for the wires I added. That ground through the TWICE is important even if you have power. The grn/wht TWICE wiring (noted) was definitely not needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'd be surprised if that were true... my car lacked the high amp wiring for the seat power as well as the other tidbits. It had the inbound fuse terminals, but nothing on the outbound side. But, it was an '01, by '03 they might have started using just one harness (couldn't understand why they found it worthwhile to have a production line change for 10' of wire and a few terminals, so maybe they concluded the same thing).

Go through my original post and check for the wires I added. That ground through the TWICE is important even if you have power. The grn/wht TWICE wiring (noted) was definitely not needed.
Thanks Bob ,
Will use your post to guide me , the high amp power wire is definetly at the connector .
I also have a viggen (99) that has electric seats so will be able to do comparisons on the loom, The viggen corrently has the seats and dash out as I have been swapping complete Heater assembly ( the typical jammed distribution flaps ) so its easy to make comparisons.
Thanks for your help , happy holidays !
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I did a comparison between my99 viggen with Electric seats and the my03 that I am trying to fit some electric seats into .
The factory Loom plug at the base of the seat is identical for both , in terms of wiring color, gauge and pin configuration .
I am believing that the heavy 12v feed from fuse 5 will run to a relay base and that the relay is not inserted , I think once I locate the relay I will be in business , will update when working

Cheers Les
 

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I did a comparison between my99 viggen with Electric seats and the my03 that I am trying to fit some electric seats into .
The factory Loom plug at the base of the seat is identical for both , in terms of wiring color, gauge and pin configuration .
I am believing that the heavy 12v feed from fuse 5 will run to a relay base and that the relay is not inserted , I think once I locate the relay I will be in business , will update when working

Cheers Les
As far as I recall, there's no relay between the fusebox and the seats. I think the only relay is within the wiring under the seats. Check the WIS.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
As far as I recall, there's no relay between the fusebox and the seats. I think the only relay is within the wiring under the seats. Check the WIS.
You are correct Bob , no relay in between fuse box and seat .
I read your post where you added power to a non powered vehicle , but this car is already wired , it really does appear as plug n play .

Altough I struggle to believe it , it is suggesting that I have a break in the red/blue cable from fuse 5 .
trying to follow that cable and finding the connection points is proving difficult,
I have been studying the the WIS but not sure where the 2 connection points are ,
Thanks for your help ,
Les
 

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Check the H33 connector. It's one of four large ones in a bracket behind the driver's side kick panel. That will tell you if the power issue is before that point or after it. You can chase the half that's the issue. I'm still inclined to think that something isn't installed vs. broken. Broken seems highly unlikely for wires that never get touched.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Bob , you are spot on , Lack of install versus break ,
although the connector (h29) at the seat has all the required cabling , there is no Red/blue at pin 3 of connector H33 , also nothing from the outbound of fuse 5 . (rh seat )
I made the mistake of focussing at the seat end ... really bizzare that they would wire from H33 to H29 , but not from the fuseboard to H33 .
I havent checked but I am sure the same applies for the LH seat from fuse 16
For now I will leave it alone , If and when the dash comes out I will cable it up in the main loom that crosses behind the dash roll .
Thanks for the help , if nothing else I learnt how to follow WIS wiring diagrams better ...
 

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That is odd... mine lacked ALL the wiring for power to the seat. FWIW, it's not that hard to work on the fusebox and add the wiring. You could do it with wires farmed from a junkyard car (terminals and all if you don't mind spending the time pulling them). I farmed the fusebox terminals with longish pieces of wire and spliced to those... then skipped H33 and went direct to H29. But if you already have H33 to H29 wired, I might be tempted to do it all factory style - it would be plug and play.

Getting into the fusebox is fairly easy. You do have to remove the lower panel under the steering wheel that comes up around the fuse box, but that's about it. There are three screws holding the fusebox and then you can pull it out far enough to insert the additional terminals. Since you already got to H33, you've done half the work.

Have you ever pulled terminals out of a connector before? If not, it can be done with a couple paperclips (or buy the tool). The fusebox and h33 terminals are large and fairly easy. If there's a u-pull junkyard you could practice there, get the two wires you need, and be all set to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Bob , Yeah I considered just running a feed fuseboard to the seat , but would prefer to wait until the dash is out at some stage and do it as per factory . well experienced with getting the pins out via needles or paper clips but I always find it a bit hit and miss , do you have a link to the tool you reference ? I am wanting to make up some harness's in the future , one that will be for tuning ecu's out of the car and also for converting a C900 to t5 , so the correct tool would be invaluable to me .
 

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I like the factory option too. Almost did mine that way, but then I decided it wasn't worth another half day to get to the u-pull, get the factory jumper, then waste a couple hours looking around the other cars there for fun :) Plus, I didn't have the other wiring you had, so I was going to be pulling a wire as far as H33 anyway.... decided to just go on up to the fusebox with it since H33 seems extraneous once the car is built.

Just so you know, you don't really need to pull much of the dash for this... just the panel under the steering wheel that wraps around fuse box. Maybe six screws, the push-in plastic fastener near the brake pedal that always breaks, the 10mm bolt near the door frame, and pull the rubber seal off the door jamb near the dash. Ten minutes at most. Once that under-steering panel is off, there are just three screws that hold the fusebox in and you can pull it out far enough to start plugging/unplugging wires in there. To do the factory wiring, you do need to pull the kick panel below that gets you to the H33 brothers too, but you knew that.

As for the terminals... I've stuck with with the large paper clips or my latest preference, the 2" safety pin: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Safety_pin . Grind off the pointy tip and it makes an easy to hold tool that works much better IME. I've almost ordered a "terminal tool kit" from Ebay several times... for $10 you can get a set of them. Certainly would save time instead of the hit-or-miss you get with the pins.

An aside: Do you have manual climate or ACC? If it's manual and you are in the fuse box with the ability to pull terminals, you can easily change the cigarette lighter to be always on for charging. I did a post on that. You can do it with ACC, but it's more work. With MC, it's two minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks Bob ,
It is a little more involved for me , RHD , so running across the firewall in a loom that ties up under the dash , I wouldnt need to remove the whole dash roll , but I would need to take out the dash fascia to do it neatly in the loom , I have done this a few times , complete dash removal on 2 different viggens fixing heaters , it isnt hard but is time consuming , I have refitted the original seat for now and will deal with it when the time is right . I have a parts car at home that will give me all I need,
Thanks again for the guidance ,
Cheers Les
 

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AH... I see. Didn't realize that. I might be inclined to just run a heavy duty wire direct from under the carpet to tie me over until I had a chance to do the full job then. I bought a car that was wired like that (but not in a good way :).

Just gave in and bought this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/383237437670 I'll appreciate it next time I have to work on terminals (might be needed that soon for something else).
 
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