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Discussion Starter #1
Let's get a catalog of what you guys are running for audio setups! Try to be thorough so others can see how you set it up! I'm all stock AS2 Harman/Kardon in my 9-5 so I can't really contribute. :lol:

Year/Model car:
Head Unit:
Amplifier:
Speakers:
Extra parts needed for fitting:
Pros/Cons of setup:
Overall cost:


 

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You know those are dual-purpose speakers right ? With enough decibels, they also provide additional boost thrust for the vehicle. Ingenious ;)
 

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Year/Model car:

2003 9-3 SS

Head Unit:

Stock

Amplifier:

Phoenix Gold Xenon 100.2 (runs rear 7x10s)

Speakers:

MB Quart DKE 108 3 1/2" in dash speakers
Bostons Acoustics SE45 4" center speaker
Infinity Kappa 629i 6 1/2" door speakers
DLS R1070 7"x10" in rear shelf

Extra parts needed for fitting:

Dynamat in rear shelf

Pros/Cons of setup:

Pros:
-Anything is better than the stock rubbish.
-Better than my wife's 2013 Escape with Sony upgrade (IMO).

Cons:
-Need an amp controller as any adjustments to bass using head unit also affects rest of system, mainly doors.
-Still not enough volume from stock head unit. I can max it out easily, especially using the radio.
-Have not had AUX enabled and the CD player skips like 3 year old on sugar in the winter.

Overall cost:

Considering I'm on my 2nd set of dash speakers and 2nd set of door speakers it is getting close to $1,000 I'd say.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/with/9178104940/
 

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Year/Model car: 2009 9-3SS "Tally"

Head Unit: stock non-navi/GM black tie (although I've had a Kenwood DNX-6960 double DIN w/SWC in there at one point. Didn't like it so went back to stock ;ol;)

Amplifier: stock Bose, mono amp for sub

Speakers: stock Bose in all 4 doors, 6x9s and 4" on parcel shelf. Upgraded front dash speakers to Infinity Reference 3002CFX. JL 10" sub and mono amp in the trunk in a sealed enclosure. Thinking about doing a cubby fiberglass enclosure in the future.

Accessories/Other: USA Spec iPod (GM) interface for direct iPod connectivity/charging. I use Spotify Premium as well. The iPod touch stays in my car 24/7. I update my playlists from inside my house via an extended WiFi network. I can even log on to my iPod touch from my PC about 80 feet away using a VNC viewer. Dynamat on all 4 doors. Foam sound deadening inside headliner, on rear parcel shelf, rear C pillars, and third brake light. Lots of bass rattles in our cars!

Extra parts needed for fitting: none, except the sub wiring kit I guess.

Pros/Cons of setup: Sounds like a concert hall in my 9-3 now, I love it. Best sound system in any car I've ever owned. Sounds better than a Burmester sound system in a new Porsche IMO. Only con is that I can't change songs from the steering wheel using the iPod adapter. No biggie.

Overall cost: Sub/amp around $300, Dynamat $90, foam $5, iPod interface $150, Infinity Reference speakers $65. Just over $600 total.

Pictures:

 
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Swedespeed7,

I'm curious about the dynamat. Specifically, how well does it cut down on outside noise and overall vibrations? I'm not really interested in upgrading the audio yet, but I'd like something that will "solidify" the interior so to say. Did you do it only on the doors?
Definitely quieted down road noise, yes. Helped with speaker buzzing/rattles too. I put it on the actual door and the inside of the door panel as well. I didn't put it anywhere else.
 

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Year/Model car:
2008 93SS
Head Unit:
Pioneer AVHP-8400
Amplifier:
Eclipse PA-5542 & Alpine MRD-M605
Speakers:
Boston Acoustic SE35 (front)
Boston Acoustic SE45 (rear)
Stock Mids in door
12in Alpine SWR-1214
Extra parts needed for fitting:
Connects2 harness and dash kit
O/1 power cable and ground
Knukustoms power and ground distribution block
Pros/Cons of setup:
Pros are it's sounds much better than stock
Cons: the drivers side mid is blown
I need a better battery and sound deadening
Overall cost:
Close to $1600
 

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Does anyone have a link to show me how to replace my head unit im having major pr8blems with my sounds system and I would like to completely redo it but I lack the knowledge about saab and I dont want to screw up anything I shouldnt I did completely redo my sound system on a f150 but I had videos to go by on that
 

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Year/Model car: 2007 Saab 9-3

Head Unit: Factory

Amplifier: Amp 1 Factory Amp 2 Rockford Fosgate R150x2

Speakers: Factory Door speakers, Factory center speaker, Boston Acoustics SX-35 Dash speakers, Rockford Fosgate P1462 rear deck speakers, Rockford Fosgate R1s410 10" Sub

Extra parts needed for fitting: Assorted wire for amp and sub, 2 Mini add a fuse circuits, 3/4" plywood and small roll of speaker carpet for sub, 8 screws & adhesive.

Pros/Cons of setup: Cheap, easy set up which took about 3 hours total. Only con I had was the way I ran the sub originally. I made a nice enclosure for the back cubby in the trunk on the passenger side and the sub did not sound full enough. I had more bass when I opened the trunk than when I had the trunk closed. My wife talked me into moving it to the pass through and wow, what a difference. Sound is wonderful.

Feedback: The BA SX-35's made as big a difference as the sub did for the overall sound. I wanted P142C speakers for the back deck but my supplier was out of stock and sent the P1462's instead and they were a ***** to mount. Can't tell that they sound better unless you are in the back seat so probably were an unnecessary upgrade.

Overall cost: Believe it or not about $300 all in. But I did all the work myself.
 

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I'm contemplating some repositioning of audio equipment in my c900s.

1. The problem is I must reluctantly admit that navigation systems do seriously improve driving convenience and pleasure. The only logical location I can find is the upper 1 DIN space above the HVAC controls or to use a purpose built mount riding on top of the dashboard. Making any serious modifications to the dash is out of the question. Anyway I've found the actual part of the technology I need is so fleeting as to make a large modification unreasonable. My solution I'm thinking of is to move the current head unit down to the lower 1 DIN space and put a Saab "fuzzy cubby" in the upper DIN. I'd then wire a USB port and audio in jack to the rear of the cubby. This arrangement looks like it will probably be recessed, which means I could get or make a DIN faceplate and then mount a navigation system to that. I'd have power behind the navigation device and it would be at the same level as all of the gauges.

2. On a related note, I currently have auxiliary gauges occupying the lower DIN, (on two cars) but I'd make a face plate to cover about half of the lower cubby. I've had a cup holder from a Nissan Sentra I've been meaning to fit somehow into this lower cubby for sometime now.

3. While we're on the subject of interior work, is there any consensus with torx head screws? I can get both oval and butten head torx screws, but is this just obsessive? But to use Philips increase the need to swap heads more frequently in ordinary jobs. I only ask, because a lot of older torx screws are beginning to oxidise and I'm considering a massive replacement.
 

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How Mrs. Eidsvik likes her jams...

Year/Model car: 2001 9-5 Aero
Head Unit: Pioneer AVH-P4400BH Double DIN
Amplifier(s): All Pioneer Digital Amplification. Separate Front Stage/Subwoofer Amps.
Speakers: Diamond Audio Hex Series Components w/silk tweeters
Subwoofers: x2 Pioneer Shallow Mount 10" in custom sealed enclosure

In the boot:

In the back I removed the OnStar unit to make room for the amplifier rack. Previously I had a class AB Precision Power amplifier running the whole show but it was really straining our stock alternator so I switched to Pioneer digital amps noted above and problem solved. It's hinged at the rear (bolted to top edge of seat opening). I installed an exhaust fan to keep the air moving.





Tweeters. Utilizing the OEM speaker baskets from the dash I gutted them and installed the silk tweeters. Worked perfectly!



Upfront stuff:

Shown this previously but always cool, my dummy AS3 faceplate. I've got some magnets behind the trim piece and complimenting magnets on the back side of the OEM face. Just pops right on and off with the cassette as the handle.





For easy music and video I integrated a card reader in to the coin holder. Nice and tidy like.



Power connections:

I was shooting for something else here but you can see the wiring upgrade completed. The grounding wires, all the way to the alternator is 0 gauge.



This was a little easter egg from Casey and Kelly. Made me happy.



And that's some of my stuff. This winter has me beginning a whole new build in the Viggen ;ol;




.
 

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Year/Model car: 1995 900SE
Head Unit: Clarion DRX9255 + Clarion CDC9250 6 disc changer
Amplifiers: Alpine 3566 & Alpine 3553
Speakers: Vifa XT25 tweeters, Vifa TG9 Mids, Seas L18RNX/P aluminium woofers, Dayton 10" Reference HO subwoofer
Extra parts needed for fitting: Alpine 3672 active crossover
Optional: Silent Coat damping mats and Sound absorber 35

Amps and crossover mounted in the back


Crossover


Headunit and front end.


at night


Mids and tweeters



Door woofers


Deadening



Pros/Cons of setup: Sounds great and is all period old school to match the car. Age related reliability issues have caused a few headaches. I've had to repair both amps and the headunit at least once. (I have lots of spares which helps) The headunit age is the most annoying bit as it lacks any modern convenience like playing mp3's, aux in, usb or bluetooth. It is literally just a cd player (an extremely expensive one) and a radio. New sub will be under construction in roughly one week. (took the old one out as it was just too big)

Overall cost: £500 ish (or roughly $700) Nearly half of the cost being the headunit.
 

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Spent almost 4 months so far of this year tinkering with this as my 6 channel amp decided to call it quits after 25 years service. I took the opportunity to service all of the old components and repair a pair of V12 amps I've had for quite a few years. (certainly cheaper than buying new ones and I know they are in good condition with all new parts)

Year/Model car: 1995 900SE
Head Unit: Alpine CDA-137BTi
Amplifiers: Alpine 3566 & Alpine 3553
Speakers: Vifa XT25 tweeters, Vifa TG9 Mids, Seas L18RNX/P aluminium woofers, Dayton 10" Reference HO subwoofer
Extra parts needed for fitting: Alpine 3672 active crossover
Optional: Silent Coat damping mats and Sound absorber 35

Connection diagram


Fresh 4awg power and ground cabling all appropriately fused with midi fuses.


Splits off into an 8awg and 16awg run for the 3553 and the crossover


Relay switch for the remote power.


Easy to unplug speaker cabling using neutrik speakon sockets. Colour coordinated too. Black = Sub, Red = Midbass, Blue = Midrange & Green = Tweeters


Amps and crossover mounted in the back. Rack is sized so that there is access to the spare without any trouble


Replacement headunit fitted



at night


Sub fitted


Pros/Cons of setup: Still sounds superb as the alpine unit does an excellent job. Big benefit being it has parrot bluetooth built in, bluetooth audio, usb playback and a decent tuner with RDS. Best of all it still has ai-net so I can attach another cd changer, dab unit and aux in off it not to mention fit a modern eq/crossover like a PXA-H800 if I choose to.

Overall cost: Ignoring the cost of the old bits removed, it's around £650
 
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