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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all!

As the weather is looking better today I wanted to get a few things done on my '90, so i'm going to change the pads. Does anyone know the correct torque for the front caliper's guide pin retaining bolts?

My Haynes manual wants me to tighten them to the "specified torque" yet doesn't actually have it in the torque wrench settings section. I've tried searching the forums for it so I hope I'm not covering old ground. I had a suggestion from a mate who said "it'll be alright, just do them tight" and I'm not a fan of that approach.

Cheers,
Ben
 

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I had a suggestion from a mate who said "it'll be alright, just do them tight" and I'm not a fan of that approach.
Got to admit that is exactly what I do, never had any even remotely come undone, they're bloody hard to undo so I try to get as far doing them up as well :cheesy:

Even the copy of the workshop manual I have just shows the torque of the wheel bolts, nothing else, haven't got the Bentley book to hand so dunno if that has it, do you have one of these? Much better than the Haynes, albeit more expensive
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply. When I get them off I'll just have to put some locktite on them then!
I don't have a Bentley book but I have heard they're a lot better. I'm waiting for a 16 valve bentley manual to come up for sale second hand as they're quite expensive new. The more I use the Haynes the more it seems to have wrong or is very vague...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just fitted the new pads. I went with EBC's GreenStuff, not test driven yet and I wont know what the improvement will be until they've bedded in.

As it is my first pad change, I am surprised how easy I found it. I usually have skinned knuckles and rushing before the light goes!

If any other novices see this and are interested a haynes manual and this guide will see you through: http://townsendimports.com/Web/brake_folder/frontpad88900.htm
 

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Glad you succeeded.
An OK write-up from Townsend but, as usual, shows lack of experience....

"Use a large screwdriver between the rotor and the caliper to start compressing the piston back enough so the pads loosen from the rotor or until you get enough clearance to swing the caliper upwards enabling you to remove the old pads."?

While your screwdriver is prying, keep prying until the piston is fully compressed and skip the part about using pliers.

Remove the upper retaining bolt instead of the lower so the caliper stays flopped/propped down for cleaning and lubing, and never puts a strain on the flex-hose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was lucky in that both callipers came off very easily without the need for any "persuasion". However, I do wish I left the lower bolt on and just swivelled them for access. Cleaning them was a pain when I hung them up from the springs with binder twine, they moved a lot.
 

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Prying the caliper to compress the piston is faster and also avoids the slight but real danger of damaging the piston's dust boot with the pliers.

Glad it worked out for you, the twine is a real pain.
 
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