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I recently took my '97 9000 Aero in for what I suspected was a fault DI cassette. It was, and the mechanic at the local dealership replaced it and preceeded to butcher my car. After taking the car back several times I gave up, out about 2 grand. No more boost issues with the DI cassette, but now I have new problems. They seem inter-related but I am not sure:

1) Now when I start the car, it turns over 2-3 times before starting (never fails to start, just irritating--already tried replacing the battery, no avail)
2) The idle seems to be low, and much rougher than before. I idle ~1000RPMs, but there is a slight, noticeable shake that was not previously there
3) And most irritating, it seems as if I have NO low end power. This problem is a little difficult to explain because I'm not really sure what is going on internally: If I shift up gears I now have to hold the clutch in longer as I rev, because if, in the process of the shift I cause the revs to drop below about the green area on the tach, its like the car gets STUCK in the lower rev range and even if I put the petal to the floor (wide open throttle I guess) it accelerates very VERY slowly. Something screwed up with the gearing, but I don't know what.

You guys here are great, you helped me out with the original DI cassette diagnosis on my car. Any help you guys could offer would be GREAT. I plan on taking my car to a different mechanic (I go to college in a very Saab-friendly area, I should have never taken it to the GM/Saab dealership in my hometown). I just want to have some idea of what I'm talking about.. Thanks!!
 

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Fuel pump/filter get worked on/replaced? Is the issue more pronounced on a half-tank of gas?

There's also some weird idler motor I believe on Saabs which could be going, but from what I've read the issues lead to bouts of stalling, not wack performance.

As well, I don't think 1000RPM is a low idle. Are you idling lower than this? Rough idle again leads me to think fuel system.

Are you getting the CEL to come on at all?

One other thing to check is that all the hoses going in to the intake manifold are connected properly, and look to be in good condition. It wouldn't be the first time that some mechanic didn't plug all the hoses in correctly (or damaged some in the process of fixing something else).

Ooh, one other thing: try turning your key one step before the starter (sorry, can't remember what the second position is called exactly) for 10 seconds, then crank it over, and reply with the results.
 

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1000 RPM is a little high for idle... and the Saab does take a moment to catch. I think this is because it has no cam sensor and has to use the DI to figure out where TDC is. Mine takes, oh, about a second to catch usually. Hard to say. How long would you say yours takes?

If you think 1000RPM is low, can I ask where it was idling before? Perhaps the difference you feel at the low end is simply normal the change is that the car is now idling where it should. I mean, if it was idling at say 1500 before, you would probably find it did pull away quicker :)
 

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Normal idle is around 900 rpm, electronically set and not adjustable.

Trionic cars commonly take at least 2 or 3 revs before they even fire, this is perfectly normal. The earlier cars with APC tend to start instantly. My 86 with 292,000 km on the original untouched engine fires up almost immediately you turn the key, even when it's been sitting for a few days. My Aero seems to take forever by comparison, though it really is only 2 or 3 complete revolutions of the crank before it fires.

Low torque at low rpm is normal, but sluggish acceleration sound ssuspiciously like plugs gapped too wide. Trionic cars seem to like .9 to 1.0 mm gap, SAAB specs allow up to 1.1 mm but I find the engine is sluggish when the gap approaches 1.0 mm.

Also, make sure you have the correct Resistor type plugs. if you use the wrong non resistor plugs the DI may be destroyed in short order.
 
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