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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1999 Saab 9-5 turbo. 105K miles... 10K miles since purchase.

Replaced the turbo at 105K miles (with another Garrett because it was available) and while installing it I thought the bolt for the oil feed to the turbo (above the oil filter) was not square with engine. Backed it out, ran it back in without the oil feed line attached and it went right in, looked to be square and things looked good.

Attached the oil feed line and tightened it, but again, it did not look right. I wondered if it was just the angle I was looking at it (laying under the car - on jackstands) and let it go but was concerned.

Changed filter, added oil and coolant, primed turbo by pulling ignition fuse, and when I started the car oil poured out of the fitting. Went underneath again today and had my son start it for 3 seconds and it's pouring out of the fitting. Fast and furious.

What are my best options?

I don't want to keep threading and unthreading the bolt if it's going in cross threaded sometimes.

Any suggestions are appreciated.
 

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that fitting should go down tight, one of those copper crush washers on each side of the metal pipe. Did you happen to not put one of those in there?


The good news is that the block for the oil filter is aluminum and is bolted to the cast iron block. If it's stripped just go to the boneyard and get another one from another engine. Might be a bit of a pain to get a new one in, but I think you can probably do it with the engine in the car.
 

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Take the oil tube off again, and try re-inserting the 'bolt' sans tube. If it screws in easily then the thread should still be OK, but if it gets tight after a few turns then you have probably damaged the thread.

I had a similar fitment difficulty when refitting my turbo oil tubes. The initial problem is caused by the tube having an unwanted bend and / or twist in it (i.e. it's bends are not exactly the same shape as they once were, probably because the tube has at some time been forced to one side during turbo removal or fitting). So, with the banjo fitting connected at one end the other banjo fitting won't line up 'square' with it's intended orifice, so the 'bolt' will be forced to be at some angle as it is inserted, making threading the 'bolt' quite difficult (the tube will have to be flexed as you try to thread the 'bolt' in, and the tube is quite stiff).

If the tube has been damaged (bent out of shape) then it will need to be 'adjusted' until the banjo 'bolts' at each end can be fitted without angularity. This might be a fiddly job. I contemplated cutting the tube and fitting some flexible high pressure hose, but in the end I managed to get it back together.

If the threads have been cross-threaded (i.e. you can't easily insert the 'bolt' all the way without the tube involved), then you'll need to sort that out. Milt tells us that the filter block is removable, which is good news if it's banjo fitting threads have been damaged...

Note that banjo 'bolts' are inherently weak due to being hollow and the oil feed holes in the resulting 'tube'. Excessive force can cause the 'bolt' to distort around the oil holes, the 'bolt' will twist and it's head may no longer be at 90° to the axis of the 'bolt' shank. Have a good look at the oil feed holes, are they still perfectly circular? If not then the 'bolt' has been damaged and should be replaced.

Regards,
John.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Seems encouraging.

I did reuse the crush washers after cleaning them. Will give it another try tomorrow inserting the bolt without the banjo fitting again. And you are correct, the tubes alignment may be what pulled it out of square since it went right in without it when rechecked yesterday.

Was frustrating not to have the car rolling again, but will get things sorted out soon.
 

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I did reuse the crush washers after cleaning them.
You can often get away with re-using copper washers, but it's always something of a risk that they may leak. Each time they're used they compress and get harder, so may not seal. Unless they're fairly mangled you can anneal and re-use them. New ones are cheap...

Note that some Saab crush washers are steel with an elastomer insert, so can't be annealed, but should be re-usable if the insert is in good condition. From usually unreliable memory, the washers on the turbo oil and coolant lines are not (just plain copper, I think...).

Regards,
John.
 

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How do you anneal the copper washers? Do you just heat with a propane torch and allow to cool slowly?
Anything that gets them red hot. Some people seem to think that it's necessary to quench copper in cold water (from red heat) to achieve an annealed state, but it isn't. The copper will be softened whether it's quenched or allowed to cool slowly.

Quenching does 'shock' any oxide off (heating to red heat will create a copper oxide coating), leaving a nice clean surface, so it's not a bad idea in that quenching tends to avoid or lessen the necessity to clean the 'fire-scale' off. Having said that, I don't usually quench, I usually clean the fire scale with abrasive paper or a wire wheel on the grinding machine.

Regards,
John.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Quick update...took off the oil supply line, inserted the bolt wo the line, had to fiddle w it getting started, but it seemed to thread properly. Reinstalled everything, and doing fine. No leaks. (Still some drips on the floor, but there was so much oil on the bottom of the engine, I need run it hard for a while and degrease it to see if it is old or new.).

Uncle Miltie, John, and Joey, thanks for you help and advice. I am a lurker on most forums but when you need help, is great to get advice and background knowledge so quickly. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Quick update...took off the oil supply line, inserted the bolt wo the line, had to fiddle w it getting started, but it seemed to thread properly. Reinstalled everything, and doing fine. No leaks. (Still some drips on the floor, but there was so much oil on the bottom of the engine, I need run it hard for a while and degrease it to see if it is old or new.).

Uncle Miltie, John, and Joey, thanks for you help and advice. I am a lurker on most forums but when you need help, is great to get advice and background knowledge so quickly. Thanks again.
 
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