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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
just replaced my driver side axle (slide hammer is so much better than a pry bar). did strut inserts, new strut mounts, sway bar links, new control arms and tie rods. I'm still getting a popping when turning and over large bumps:confused:. The only thing I can think is the bolts aren't torqued to spec. Does any body have the specs for stanchion arm, tie rod and so forth. Any help would be great.
 

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i changed basically all those things except for the strut insert. After a bit of research and talking it over with my mechanic i believe the popping coming from the spring. I can let you know for sure in a week or so since im redoing the whole suspension.
 

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You said your getting a popping, are you feeling any feed back in the steering colum? I would have to say it could be your barrings given what you have discribed.....anyone other details?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It definitely feels like the spring. I get a pop that I can feel through the steering column and floorboard on left and right turns (driver side only) all good on the 1/4 mile ;) I replaced the strut insert and mount on the side in question. I know the bottom of the coil is seated well; is it possible I assembled the mount incorrectly? I followed the diagram from eeuroparts. The only thing I did notice is that the strut bearing has a chamfer on one side and is flat on the other and I was not sure which way it should go. Does anyone have the proper torque specs for the bolts seeing as I'm gonna have to tear it down again:cry:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes it is 1 pop going into a turn and 1 smaller one coming out. It is more pronounced on left turns though
 

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Subframe front - 85 ft/lbs
Subframe middle - 141 ft/lbs
Subframe rear - 81 ft/lbs + 75°
Control arm to stanchion arm - 120 ft/lbs
Control arm to subframe - 85 ft/lbs
Upper strut mount bolts x 3 - 13 ft/lbs
Ball joint nut - 55 ft/lbs
Tie rod end - 45 ft/lbs
Sway bar link to control arm - 8 ft/lbs
Wheels - 84 ft/lbs
Axle nut - 214 ft/lbs
Upper shock nut - 66 ft/lbs
 

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My car does this as well. I've had everything tightened numerous times and the suspension/steering checked by 3 separate shops after having the full suspension (shocks, struts, control arms, all bushings, tie rod ends, tie rod bushings) replaced. I gave up.
 

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I just remeber this. After i changed the strut bearing and the noise didnt go away i found the point where it made that noise and had someone turn the wheel slightly back and forth to keep making that noise. Mean while i examined the suspension to see what i can find and i noticed that the spring would "jerk" when it made the noise. But once i get the suspension in im gonna have a good look over the whole thing, see what cant be figured out.
 

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My car does this too, I know my springs shift around on the spring seat on the strut since the bottom coil had long ago cracked off. Out of the many cars I've had, I've never had one with as tempermental of a suspension as my Saab. It really is maddening sometimes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Jake thanks for those specs;ol;
Demusku upon closer inspection that is exactly what is happening. I'm gonna pull the strut again and see if I can see anything and get everything to proper torque.

Shirozina I assume you mean the sleeves in the stanchion arm bushing? I have not replaced them (although they are a bit beat up). I figured I would have to replace the whole bushing with something from GS.
 

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Let me know what you find out. Ive been curious but since i was just gonna do the whole thing i didnt look into it.

"Shirozina I assume you mean the sleeves in the stanchion arm bushing? I have not replaced them (although they are a bit beat up). I figured I would have to replace the whole bushing with something from GS. "

Those stanchion sleeves were beat on mine and my friends, and a the ones i looked at in the junk yard. I just bought urethane bushings from eeuroparts. They have a pretty serious sleeve in them. Im working on getting them in right now. I think it was $72 for the pair.
 

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I ordered from eEuro and they sent me Scantech instead. The ones from TSS were only about $45, if anyone is interested
 

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Mine doesn't sound like the video.
I just remeber this. After i changed the strut bearing and the noise didnt go away i found the point where it made that noise and had someone turn the wheel slightly back and forth to keep making that noise. Mean while i examined the suspension to see what i can find and i noticed that the spring would "jerk" when it made the noise. But once i get the suspension in im gonna have a good look over the whole thing, see what cant be figured out.
That's what mine sounds like. It feels and sounds like the spring gets stuck and then suddenly pops loose. Didn't happen until I had the struts, control arms, and bushings replaced. I also replaced the strut bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Is it possible that there is clearance between the thrust bearing and mount that allows the
spring to shift? I have some 2mm poly gasket material (for plumbing gaskets ;) ) I may cut me a nice little bushing to go on the thrust bearing... or replace the springs :(. any thoughts?
 

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Grab on to the spring and have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth. If you can feel the spring hopping/jerking then you either have a bad bearing or a bad mount - most likely the bearing.
 
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