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Hello all, I wanted to ask other saab 900 turbo owners if they have starting problems when engine is cold. My car is an 83 with the 2.0 8 valve. It takes 5-6 times to turn over and after 5 min of feathering the gas pedal to keep the car running then after 10 min, the car will idle. If you give the car too much pedal in the begining, the car will stall. After the car is warmed up, will start and stay running. You just can't get in the car and go when cold. This car when sitting for a while, gets cold, the process starts over again. I would enjoy starting the car in the morning when you just turn on the key, the car idles until warmed up like my newer american cars do. More wear and tear on my starter, fuel pump and other expensive saab parts under these conditions. Anyone might know what is wrong, maybe a cold start valve. Something is not allowing my car to start up and run at a higher rpm when cold then drop as the engine warms up. Thanks. Mike
 

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Hey Mike the most likely cause of your problems is the warmup regulator, which -- when it works properly -- lowers the control pressure and allows more fuel to the injectors when the engine's cold. If it's not doing its job, the car will run lean and be cranky until warmed up. The WUR is easy to remove and replace, or even repair if you're brave and clever like VikingSpirit (see a recent thread on the 99 forum -- "how does a WUR work" for details)
 

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Cool, another '83 T8.:)

I agree with it's SpecialTool, it's probably the Warm-Up Regulator.

There are other things that could cause poor cold starting (faulty cold start injector, auxillary air valve, or thermo-time switch) but I don't think they'd cause as severe a problem as described.

You should check the fuel system line pressure and control pressure. But if you don't have access to a suitable gauge you can do a quick resistance check on the WUR to see if it works at all.

From the Bentley manual "disconnect the harness connector to the WUR. Measure resistance across the terminals of the WUR. If the circuit is open (no continuity), the heating element is faulty and the WUR should be replaced."

You can also check the wiring to the WUR. "Connect a voltmeter across the disconnected harness connector. Start the engine and check for battery voltage." If voltage is not present there is a fault inthe wiring somewhere.

Hope that helps.

Joe
 
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