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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Phil's Black Carlsson 'vert

Well since I asked for this forum I thought I'd better put my car in here.

Bought one month ago to replace my Orodorado 'vert this thing has everything on it I want except air con. I am using this as a daily driver so the project is part rolling resto and part performance improver.

So far I have done all the standard service jobs, a good way to get to know the car. Unlike on the last car I have replaced all the vac tubes with silicone, a real pain in the rear job but I have been surprised at how it restores the performance. The original rubber must have had micro holes in it. I have put in a pipercross air filter and you'd be amazed at the performance difference - bugger all! I replaced the front engine mount - the old one fell apart as I took it out, and the difference in driveline smootheness is remarkable.

The car came with a bridge spoiler on the boot lid, fine for some but not for me, so that's come off and I've resprayed the lid, removing all the high spots in the process.

The hood was almost new so I have dabbed some renovo restorer on it and now it really looks new.

I've started the painful process of restoring the 16" aeros with one done so far.

Plans for the car include the usual perf mods; 900 aero APC, FMIC(I have a 9000 one ready), 3" downpipe, dropped suspension, 9000 brakes and maybe some tweaks to the head.

When I get home tonight i'll post some piccies.

Jobs Done List - Regularly updated

4 wheels refurbished - Gear lever shortened - Gear lever gaiter replaced - Smoked side repeaters fitted - Coin/Cup holder fitted to centre console - Wooden Gear Knob - Dash, ashtray and centre console walnut made and fitted. - 900.aero APC mod carried out - Pipercross air filter fitted - Silicone vacuum hoses fitted - Front engine mount replaced - Steering wheel refurbished - Kilen lowering springs fitted - Front pads replaced with Pagid fast road items - Rear spoiler removed - boot lid resprayed - Drivers door scuffs repaired-door resprayed - Headgasket replaced c/w second hand head + new lifters - Front bumper resprayed - Dodge SRT 4 FMIC fitted - AND NOW the pipework! - Passenger window quadrant replaced - all windows adjusted - VW wiper delay mod fitted - Interior light delay relay fitted - Cooling fan switch bypassed - Sw on dash with LED warning - 1000 w stereo incl Sub in spare wheel - 'Carlsson' twin tail pipes - Ashtray mod-MP3 player stowage - Rear indicator lense tinted red - Grille 'Abbotised' - Interior door handles covered in leather to match seats etc - Centre armrest made to match seats - incorporating window switches - Dizzy vac advance modified - Clear front lights fitted (with silvered indicator bulbs) - Door cards and speaker grilles recovered - Centre cubby relined - Heater intake mesh fitted - Short Antenna fitted - Mintex fast road pads fitted to rear
 

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That black one it JUST like I wanted a convertible to look like, if I where ever to get one :(
Daniel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I have done quite a bit of renovation work on the interior. The carpets would not clean up fully, even using a domestic VAX machine so I have put some of 'shauns saab spares' grey mats in to cover the immovable grot.

I have fitted a chrome and leather momo gear knob (very tarty I know). To achieve this I had to shorten the lever by about 2", doing that removes the reverse lock, not a problem, but it also leaves 1st and 2nd gear positions very sloppy. So I made up a metal plate to fit under the gaiter that screws to the centre console. This restricts the lever to the correct positions for both gears. The lever action is now slightly shorter than normal and the knob is a lot more comfortable than the original. I have also replaced the shot gaiter with a new one from Mr Gaiter for £10.

The seats were filthy but with liberal applications of Gliptone cleaner and then conditioner they have come up almost like new. The leather smell has returned too!

The carlsson style wheel had lost almost all of it's dye so I applied some shoe dye, then shoe polish and it has come up like new. (if you do this give it a good buff unless you like the palms of your hands black)

Like Iron Joe I have fitted a coin and cup holder from a Ford Taraus or Mercury Sable. I have fitted that under the DIN cubby in the centre console. It involved a lot of cutting and fiddling but now it looks almost OE and means I haven't had to move the radio to the centre console.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
More Piccies + APC Mod

I have now figured out how to post pictures with an awful lot of help from my son!

So just a side view of how the car was to start with, one of a wheel in progress and one of the boot lid respray.

I have just bought all the electronic gizmos required for the 900 Aero APC mod and for Daniel's mod. This weekend I'll be mostly soldering. I'll do the Aero mod and set it up properly first then try Daniel's. I figure that if I go this route it'll be easier to trace problems or errors. watch this space!







 

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Your project looks v interesting Phil, we will have to get together some time and compare, start a Hampshire SC chapter ;)

Specifically, I'm interested to see how my car compares to others with its Nutcase-modded APC (I have the original red box apc unmodded as a spare). Nutcase (Richard) told me how to tune it but I never got around to it, I suspect its not set for best effect;

"When I tuned mine I did this: Turn P (rise rate) right down. Find a long uphill road. Set F pot to a starting point quite low. Drive and floor it in 3rd. Watch the boost gauge (as well as the road). If it goes up and stays up then you can increase the F a bit more. Do this until you reach a point where the boost backs off. Back the F pot off enough to get rid of that.

Now start raising the P pot. Do the same thing, increase it until you notice the boost pulling back after its peak. Back the P pot off a touch until that goes away.

When that's done, get a calibrated boost gauge and see what your peak boost is, then adjust base boost to be about half that. eg. if you hit 1.2bar then set it to 0.6bar.
Should be nicely tuned then.
"

Anyway you could try it as a baseline before you mod your own if you like, he modded it to the 9000 190bhp specs on 900aero.com.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Yes we should get together, actually your motor should be in the projects forum.

Still haven't done the APC yet, life getting in the way!

Have fitted a dual SS exhaust, looks v nice and Carlssonish but trying to stop it vibrating against the airflow bodywork is a pain.





I have now managed to reduce the vibration against the bodywork to start-up only, I think I can live with that.

Edit 22 Nov 06 - no I can't live with the noise so now I have fabricated rubber mounts to go either side of the tail pipe. This set-up restricts the lateral movement of the pipe but still allows fore and aft movement. All noise has now gone and the car is back to being a smooth machine again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
APC Mod

So, I have done the 900 aero mod and have started the tuning process. Of course I had to ask which way to turn the pots on the Mods forum, logic told me that clockwise was 'up' and anti 'down' but I had to check. I am using the method posted by NDBELL and so far, with some success. Some way to go still because finding the time to race up and down hills aint so easy.

Here are some pics of the car with refurbed wheel, refurbed steering wheel before and after, installed cup holder and gear knob and finally Abbot style grille.














 

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philjohnhb said:
..have started the tuning process...with some success...
Cool! Any chance of just copying your settings when you are done? I am interested to see how the original red box apc performs against the modded one.

Was just on ebay trying to get a boost gauge so I can check the settings accurately. Do you have one of these? I am minded to get a cheapie just for level setting, don't want it installed in the car permanently (no room as already have original saab gauge set).

And that grille looks RUDE, dude! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
QUOTEWas just on ebay trying to get a boost gauge so I can check the settings accurately. Do you have one of these?QUOTE

No I don't have a boost gauge but I have seen one made by TIM that has a scale almost identical to that of the standard gauge. I am considering fitting the innards of the TIM gauge in place of the standard one and printing the TIM values on the face of the standard instrument. Having said that I haven't had the binnacle apart yet so am not yet sure it'll work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Here's the latest:

I have just fitted a set of PAGID performance brake pads. I originally thought I might do the 9000 brake mod but after fitting these pads I'm not so sure. I've kept the standard discs and I have been really impressed with the increase in braking performance I have also been impressed with the reduction in apparent pedal effort.

They're still bedding in so i'll wait for another week or two before i'm sure.

UPDATE

2 weeks or more into using the PAGID pads and I couldn't be happier. They have bedded in well and provide a serious improvement over standard pads. The rear pads are up for renewal soon so i'll put some PAGID pads in there too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I have just finished fitting kilen lowered springs. The fronts were pretty straightforward to fit - spring compressors, tie springs to bodywork, wince and spanner! Came off easily and new ones went in a treat. That's great I thought to myself, the book says just undo a couple of bolts on the rear suspension,lower with a jack and out'll come the rear springs. Yeah right. So you undo the shock lower mount and then the trailing arm to axle bolt and down comes the....Bugger. So the rear ARB stops the arm dropping. Borrow another pair of jacks from a friend so that you can do the other side at the same time. Hey presto rears are out and in - job done. IMHO the car looks great dropped and it does handle an awful lot better. I was a bit concerned that stiffer springs wouldn't suit the convertible (torsional ridgidity and all that) but it feels good.

The plan is to run the car like this for a while and then remove the front ARB for a subjective view on which setup is best for me....watch this space.
 

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Phil, I ordered up a boost gauge with pipe etc, you welcome to lend to help fine tune your APC & base boost.
I know I went too far adjusting my modded APC, put the original red box back on yesterday and the car is much better :roll: (much 'stronger' all around with the FMIC now anyway) but could still do with a little more boost. So with the proper boost gauge at least that can be done accurately.

I pref have a second person in the car to watch the gauge - safer etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
dropped suspension

IronJoe said:
pictures?!?! :cheesy:

also, can you measure how far you front bumper is off the ground? i'm thinking i need lowering springs, but i don't wanna destroy my airflow kit!

also, pictures?!

The front bumper is now 6" (15 cm) off the ground. The springs did exactly as described and dropped the car 20 mm (3/4"). Having driven the car for about 100 miles now i'd say they are a real improvement, the body roll in corners has been significantly reduced but the ride is only slightly stiffer than normal. It might be that I will need to change the shocks as they do not seem to be able to keep up with the springs, maybe i'll get used to it and not notice.

I will post pictures as soon as I get my camera back!
 

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philjohnhb said:
The springs did exactly as described and dropped the car 20 cm (3/4").
You mean mm instead then, right? Otherwise, a 200mm drop is quite a lot ;)
Daniel.
 
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