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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im a new owner of a Saab 900 and want to know the easiest ways to push more power out of the 1997 2.0 turbo. My other vehicle is a 1987 Chevy Blazer so there is alot of difference. Any ideas and suggestions would be great.
 

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Get a tune would be the easiest.
The higher the stage # the more mods will be required. (Depends on the tuner as well though)

Go with a bigger exhaust and stage 2 tune and you'll see a good difference in power.
 

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I recommend to go straigt with stage 3, 3inch exhaust, fmic and software, this is the point when you need money, stage 3 is quit cheap
 

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Im a new owner of a Saab 900 and want to know the easiest ways to push more power out of the 1997 2.0 turbo. My other vehicle is a 1987 Chevy Blazer so there is alot of difference. Any ideas and suggestions would be great.
your in the same boat as me, i have a 93 and an s10. you will be happy with your 900. i love my 93 but for some reason, i still love my 2.2l s10 better, something about a truck...
 

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Depends on how much performance you're looking for, of what kind and how much money you're looking to spend.

Hirsch, Maptune, GenuineSaab and Abbot Racing all have (or had) a variety of performance upgrades. Some can be found new, some used.

PowerFlex has some good polyurethane bushings.

If you're a bit deeper than the norm DIY guy, consider using things like generic intercoolers and piping along with some DIY tuning software such as T5 Suite. Check out ecuproject.com for more on DIY tuning for the T5 system.

JZW does some awesome tuning on the SAABs, he postes here and other SAAB forums, has a very well earned reputation.

Another guy here "Dave in Tallahassee" has done some amazing things using old school turbo tuning stuff, has never touched his ECU yet has an exceptionally fast car.

All in all, it's pretty easy to get some serious power out of the engine without breaking the bank, particularly GenuinSAAB can really help out with the suspension. Brakes can be a bit of a challenge, but those too can be upgraded.
 

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Suggestions:

Read here for at least a few hours in threads that talk about upgrades and learn. Depending on how much power you want, and how much you have to spend, we can guide you. You have to tell us what your goals are and what your limits are.

Personally, I'm more fond of doing suspension upgrades first. These cars need some work before they can handle the power they have already, and if your suspension is worn, it's even worse. Upgrades can include lower/stiffer springs, quality shocks, poly bushings, upgraded rear roll bar, subframe brace, and rack brace or poly upgrade.

After that, you can add as much power as you want. Various levels include cat back exhaust, ECU upgrades, down pipe upgrades, larger turbos, intercooler upgrades, larger injectors, fuel pumps, clutch upgrades, etc.

Do some ready, set some goals and a budget, and ask some specific questions.
 

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1st things 1st before any mods:

Fresh full synthetic oil is a must. Can buy a 5 quart jug for less than $35.

Get a new set of NGK plugs. Again, NGK is considered a "must" as there are NO knock sensors in the car. "Knock" is sensed through the actual spark plug from the DIC (the red center section on the top of the valve cover) it has 4 ignition coils attached to it's underside. "Other" plugs are thought to not detect knock as well.

Replace ALL the vacuum lines under the hood. They're prone to rot, softening, splitting, cracking, causing all sorts of goofy symptoms. Costs about $10 to replace them. Do them one by one. If the hoses are attached to a plastic nipple, score the hose length-wise several times until it becomes free. Otherwise, expect to do some parts searching for that little nipple on the PCV port coming off the valve cover. Good idea to replace the rubber grommet on the valve cover where the PCV tube is. The rubber rots and gets into the head, and eventually the oil pan. If you're lucky, no severe damage.

Replace the fuel filter. It's roughly in front of the passenger rear wheel, towards the middle of the car. $15.

New air filter. Remove the factory snorkel tube from the air filter box and widen the hole. I cut the entire perimeter of the bottom box off, leaving roughly an inch around the mounting tabs for structural integrity. Factory air filter works OK as the turbo pulls the air regardless. Pull the Trubo silencer if you have one. "HOT and Viggen" cars don't have them. They were on the 150HP and 185HP cars.

I'm fond of Manual Boost Controllers so long as the above has been done. You can run them in series, or in place of the BPC. There are other threads explaining this. If you bypass the BPC, you can adjust it until you reach fuel cut. Then back it off until fuel cut doesn't happen. Personally I think they're safe until you start getting into higher boost territory or bad tuning, ect. With an MBC (In place of the BPC) you'll get faster spooling, which means the turbo starts building boost faster, and your MAX boost will go up slightly, but not much. Your catalytic converter hurts performance the most, which is why people are quick to say "3" downpipe", but in reality a 3" converter is probably giving them the biggest boost in performance as it'll flow better. If you run the car without a cat, you don't need a 3" downpipe until you're running a bigger turbo or a bunch of boost.

To do an ECM flash, you either need a special adapter, or send your ECM to someone who'll flash it for you. Some guys hear do that. Like Bob Sabbit said, do some reading. Any questions just ask! Oh and Welcome!
 

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Suggestions:


Personally, I'm more fond of doing suspension upgrades first. These cars need some work before they can handle the power they have already, and if your suspension is worn, it's even worse. Upgrades can include lower/stiffer springs, quality shocks, poly bushings, upgraded rear roll bar, subframe brace, and rack brace or poly upgrade.

After that, you can add as much power as you want. Various levels include cat back exhaust, ECU upgrades, down pipe upgrades, larger turbos, intercooler upgrades, larger injectors, fuel pumps, clutch upgrades, etc.
^^^^^^^
What Bob said. Definitely sort the handling first....go faster bits later ;ol;
 

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^^^^^^^
What Bob said. Definitely sort the handling first....go faster bits later ;ol;
When i first got my car, it was all over the road. I would hit the gas on a straight and any bump in he road would have me practically changing lanes. It was scary to drive over 65 on the gas. I installed a bigger rear sway bar and now its alot better. I still have some work but i can now go alot faster than 65 and feel safe doing it. I thing suspention is more important than power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah I have alot of body roll and when i really punch it the front tends to pull right a bit. Not as bad as switching lanes but still noticable. Im going straight to the suspension first. Is there a site that has an entire set of poly bushings for what i need? And im guessing sway bars and new shocks?
 

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Parts?

Genuine saab is the place to get all your upgrade hardware,Nick talliafferro,I hope I spelled his name right.There very helpful. DAVE S<
 

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I like GS, especially for the stuff that only they sell, but they can be a major pain in the butt in terms of customer service and ordering sometimes. Also, if they don't have the item in stock, good luck on the wait. Nick is a great guy and if you can get him on the line or in email he's very helpful. The others there, not so much.

If you just want complete poly bushings for the front and back end, there's also powerflexUSA.com. GS has some kits that are re-engineered with new bolts, etc that are interesting. For a rack brace, I've gone with the poly bushing from Powerflex and been very happy, but some people like the full rack brace from GS and others.

For the rear bar, GS is the place. They also have some strut and hatch braces that no one else carries.

For shocks I'm a big Koni fan because of the adjustability. It really let's you tune for your preferences. tirerack.com, importrp.com or GS. Importrp's site is a PITA but they ship free and they excel in service - if they don't have it, they will get it drop shipped to you ASAP IME.

For springs, I've recently become an Eibach evangelist. Those are harder to get for an NG900. Tirerack told someone here they could get them from Europe with a couple weeks notice. Google this site for "europe", "eibach", and "tirerack" and you should find the thread with the info. You can use Koni springs, but they have their non-fans. See the "Koni & Eibach winning" thread at saablink.net for some comparisons.
 
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