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I have had the CG Motorsports 777 clutch kit installed for 2 weeks now and I have driven 600 km with it. I also installed Wavetrac's LSD at the same time. Although the clutch disc is a 6-puck design, it is not (for me at least) very grabby. I think it is engaging much better and easier than the stock one I had :eek:. Clutch pedal has a strange feeling, it feels like pressing a tennis ball against a floor with your foot. Engaging point is very precise and easy to control. Only time I have had a judder from the clutch is when taking off on a hill. I suppose the reason is that because you have to slip the clutch, the ceramic pads heat up fast and get very grabby. SMF is pretty loud on idle but otherwise I think the engine vibrates less. My DMF's springs were shot so that may give the perception of a smoother ride now. All and all I have to recommend this kit. What comes to the LSD, I think it is a must in this car. Yesterday I made my first WOT and my god it pulls straight and grips like nothing before.

I used by Wavetrac's recommendations, Motul Gear 300 gearbox oil. I had Redline MTL and MT-90 mixture before but because the LSD's warranty does not cover when using it, I had to change. Comparing these two, I have to say that the Motul feels nicer and the gears go in easier.
 

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I have had the CG Motorsports 777 clutch kit installed for 2 weeks now and I have driven 600 km with it. I also installed Wavetrac's LSD at the same time. Although the clutch disc is a 6-puck design, it is not (for me at least) very grabby. I think it is engaging much better and easier than the stock one I had :eek:. Clutch pedal has a strange feeling, it feels like pressing a tennis ball against a floor with your foot. Engaging point is very precise and easy to control. Only time I have had a judder from the clutch is when taking off on a hill. I suppose the reason is that because you have to slip the clutch, the ceramic pads heat up fast and get very grabby. SMF is pretty loud on idle but otherwise I think the engine vibrates less. My DMF's springs were shot so that may give the perception of a smoother ride now. All and all I have to recommend this kit. What comes to the LSD, I think it is a must in this car. Yesterday I made my first WOT and my god it pulls straight and grips like nothing before.

I used by Wavetrac's recommendations, Motul Gear 300 gearbox oil. I had Redline MTL and MT-90 mixture before but because the LSD's warranty does not cover when using it, I had to change. Comparing these two, I have to say that the Motul feels nicer and the gears go in easier.
What model Wavetrac did you use????
 

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So, the Sachs kit is in and... I couldn't be more happy.
Shop told me that slave cylinder had failed and was leaking - old clutch was soaked in oil.
Pretty sure that the slave cylinder had been replaced on the previous work. Why it failed? Dunno... Spec's design fault? Wrong installation?

Either way, I can only say I love this Sachs setup right now. It is much nicer to drive out of the box and I need to see what happens after the break-in period.

I need to drive it quite a bit and, with Winter soon hitting Finland and the change to snow tires, it will be 6 months or so before I know what this clutch really can do.

Hope all the other alternative solutions also prove to be great.
The Spec Stage 3+ definitely left me disappointed. Tempted to ship it back to Spec and see what they have to say about it.
How did this work out? Can you post the part numbers or are these the right ones:

https://www.sachsperformance.com/sachs-performance-clutch-Saab-9-3-YS3F-28-Turbo-V6-184-kW-03/2005-

Thanks
 

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Happy New Year!
I’m new to the forum and this is my first post! I have some clutch questions and thought I should revive this thread rather then posting a new one, since it has the majority of clutch info already.

Quick back story: I have a 2006 9-3 Aero 2.8t Manual with 126k on it. Had it tuned at BCB (stage 2) in September, and within a month the clutch started to slip (the usual 6th first, then all the way down to 2nd). It’s ok when driven calmly around town, just slips at wot.

After reading all I can on clutches for this car, it seems like the Sachs Performance Clutch would be the best fit for me, as I don’t plan on crazy power levels for this car (nothing more than the equivalent 400 lb/ft tq tunes) and I like that it is OEM quality parts. But it isn’t cheap (~$630) and I’ve also been thinking of ditching the DMF, which isn’t cheap either, and not very performance oriented. But a SMF would require going with an aftermarket clutch and I don’t really want or need one, especially at my power levels and the shortened life span/quality issues they seem to have.

However, in this thread (page 16 I believe), I noticed another potential option that seemed to get overlooked. Sachs Performance lists a sprung organic clutch disk as compatible for the Opel Vectra C 2.8t. Since all parts from that car seem to be compatible with our 9-3 2.8’s I’m wondering if you could pair this with the uprated pressure plate from the sachs performance clutch kit, and a SMF (from Spec maybe) and it could be another option for the 2.8 to convert us to a SMF while using quality Sachs parts.

Here are the parts I’m considering:
Sachs Performance Sprung Clutch disk: 881861.999615
Sachs Performance Uprated Pressure Plate: 883082.001783 (the same one that normally comes in the Sachs Perf clutch kit)
Spec Steel 2.8t Flywheel: SS23S-4

The clutch disk itself is only rated for 450nm, but I’m guessing that combined with the Uprated Pressure Plate the rating would be the same as the normal Sachs Performance Clutch Kit (550nm). So we’re not talking about an option for the high HP guys, but should work for Stage 0/1 people.

Does anyone have any insight into if this setup would fit?

My concerns are:
- if the dimensions of the clutch disk are the same, will it fit? Or are there other factors to consider?
- Can a Spec flywheel be mated to a non-Spec clutch?
- Can the Uprated Pressure plate work with both sprung and solid hub clutch disks?
 

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Answering a question with a question... sorry...

Has anyone swapped a FWD car over to the AWD clutch kit? I think the AWD flywheel is 1cm larger OD, and I have a 20T with matched fuel injectors, a D088 IC, and tuned for ~400hp (never seen a dyno), and my custom SACHS clutch works just fine with no slip. I'm not a red light racer, but that's not to say I couldn't launch it.

1x Performance Clutch Kit, XTend. - 3000970059-S
1x Clutch Central Slave Cylinder (CSC), ZF SACHS

Total sum incl. shipping to 07849 (US):
553,22*€

I would think the crank flywheel bolt pattern must be the same. I would think the trans input shaft would be the same (although this would be the dodgy part). If all the clearances are the same, why go to all these aftermarket clutch kits with potentially reduced life, etc? I see you're targeting to stick with OEM quality, so thought this might be a good option.

I mentioned "custom" SACHS clutch. It's the stock size, and pattern, but uses an improved friction material for torque capacity, and durability. I'm happy with it so far, with about 20k miles on it.
 

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DLI-Teknik

SAAb 2.8L Aero.

>> http://www.dli-teknik.se/index.php?section=products&subsection=7&cat=30&s1cat=697&s2cat=2124&lang=en
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This has a pocket around the springs just like the OEM <<< https://californiaclutch.com/product/saab-racing-6-button-e-z-lock-pro-clutch-disc-sprung-hub?v=7516fd43adaa
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Here is a custom pressure plate made from thicker than stock spring steel >>> https://californiaclutch.com/product/saab-red-pressure-plate?v=7516fd43adaa
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Flywheel if you must have it >>> https://californiaclutch.com/product/saab-flywheel?v=7516fd43adaa
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Both manufacturers list 430 lb/ft of Torque for the >>> 6-paddle sprung/torsion SMF setup. Both Sachs and the USA custom have the pocket around the springs too.
.
The unsprung disc has a higher listed torque at 570 lb/ft.
 

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SAAb 2.8L Aero.

>> http://www.dli-teknik.se/index.php?section=products&subsection=7&cat=30&s1cat=697&s2cat=2124&lang=en
.
.
.
This has a pocket around the springs just like the OEM <<< https://californiaclutch.com/product/saab-racing-6-button-e-z-lock-pro-clutch-disc-sprung-hub?v=7516fd43adaa
.
Here is a custom pressure plate made from thicker than stock spring steel >>> https://californiaclutch.com/product/saab-red-pressure-plate?v=7516fd43adaa
.
Flywheel if you must have it >>> https://californiaclutch.com/product/saab-flywheel?v=7516fd43adaa
.
.
.
Both manufacturers list 430 lb/ft of Torque for the >>> 6-paddle sprung/torsion SMF setup. Both Sachs and the USA custom have the pocket around the springs too.
.
The unsprung disc has a higher listed torque at 570 lb/ft.
Is this a FWD kit setup, or a XWD based setup?
 

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Fwd

They are the FWD setups using 240mm.
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.
Both DLI-TEKNIK and California Custom Clutch have the 250mm too.
 

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Good to know. Wish I had known about these when I did my clutch, I would have sprung for the upgraded pressure plate. Oh well, what I have is working fine for now, but I'll bear it in mind for the future.
 

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I ended up going the Sachs Performance route. Bought their uprated clutch disk, pressure plate and a new DMF. Figured better to go with the tried and true. I’m hopefully getting it installed in the next week or so. Is this what you have Jbarstad?
 

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My car is AWD, so SACHS told me they don't have an upgraded pressure plate for it. I am running the stock AWD DMF, stock AWD pressure plate, and an upgraded clutch disc from them. That combo is working just fine. Had I known about California clutch offering an upgraded AWD pressure plate, I would have thrown that in the mix.
 

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Frankly this is all crazy. ANYONE using a sintered metallic clutch disc for the street will be replacing it within a few months, max 25 k miles even with a pretty strong driver mod. Note the web site says 'RACE' For good reason In road racing the clutch is an on/off switch. DD not so much. The part about a "unique" modified pressure plate is just shimming the diaphragm to increase clamping pressure so that the formula for calculating torque capacity can be adjusted for claims of " omigod kazillion foot pounds torque capacity" .NOT actual dyno torque capacity test results.

Popcorn.
good OEM sachs clutch. driver mod. Enjoy for miles and miles of smiles
My take. So many clutch threads throughout social media. Driver mod required is pretty obvious
 

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I hope everyone's experience with California Clutch / Clutchnet is different from my own.. I ordered/paid for their saab 2.8T 6spd solid billet flywheel, 6 puck sprung clutch, and pressure plate toward the beginning of January this year, Jan 12th to be exact. They promised it ready for shipment in 10 business days. After the 10 business days with no updates or notifications, they did return my calls for about 3 weeks during February each time stating it'll be next week, then the next, etc..etc.. then radio silence..

No return calls or return emails through March and now into April. Nothing.

Just filed a Credit Card dispute with them to start the reversal process...

I know they are there as I had a friend call and leave a message stating they are interested in a flywheel clutch setup for a different car and they returned their call almost immediately.

They make great products and I have no axe to grind here and as a matter of fact I have a clutchnet stage 1 clutch on my Mazda6 5spd I purchased and installed almost two years ago and have been very satisfied with it. Not sure what's going on over there but customer service, at the very least has gone out the window....

Just be careful/beware if purchasing from California Clutch / Clutchnet
 

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I’ve got a new in the box mini twin and flywheel I’m selling for $900...includes custom throwout bearing.


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I’ve got a new in the box mini twin and flywheel I’m selling for $900...includes custom throwout bearing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just looked up the mini twin, and think it might be too much for what I've got. Only running stage 0 and don't plan on going much higher. I'm not sure though, don't know too much about clutches. It seems like a good deal. How do these things hold up with lower horsepower builds? I'm shooting for reliability more than anything, which makes me concerned about spec as I've read they can be unreliable. I'm also concerned about keeping a lighter clutch because I have pins and plates in my ankle which heavier clutches put a lot of stress on (ouch!). What do you guys think?

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Might be overkill, and I honestly never installed it and haven’t driven one. I know it’s much more “on/off” than stock, probably almost no slipping. Once bigger turbos are involved I think it warrants this clutch. Again, I haven’t driven this setup so unfortunately I can’t attest honestly to the drive ability.


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