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Discussion Starter #22
Here is the full story,
If you remember (you were helping me) last year my trurbo collapsed and I manage to replaced it . Than I had famous P0420. I used Cat cleaner, than tried to clean both O2 sensors . In the process to remove rear sensor I used torch and damaged thread. Decided to change first rear sensor. All this didn't help I got Po420, P1141 and P0134- which refers to front sensor. So I decided to replace front sensor. And that was already June of this year. I erased everything and than I got back only P1141. Than I noticed that connector from the new back sensor is different made adjustment and after short time Check Engine was not illuminated any more. But it was evidently still remembered and my OBD was showing it. It was also showing incomplete CAT monitor. The rest is already in this thread. In order to speed up the process of testing CAT monitor, as advised, I erased P1141 from memory and after already 8 trips on the highway and about 180 miles I still have open monitor and no any errors. And one more piece of information, it is now 1000 miles since I erased P0420 and it didn't return. I think I should continue my daily trips on highway. By the way Turbo works beautifully, no smoke leaks, or other issues.
 

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I get all that - I am asking why the connector on the new sensor is different. It should not be. Did you buy the wrong sensor, or plug it into the wrong place?
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Now when you asked that I checked it again here is my purchase
So it looks that it was for 2.3 L engine and mine is 2.0L. I wonder if the sensors itself are differnt or just connectors? Please help
Sorry I checked again and base on specs should fit also to 2.0L engine
 

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Both the sensors and the connectors are the same between 2.0 and 2.3 engines, but generic O2 sensors are never a good idea. It's really advisable to stick with OE Bosch sensors. If it came with the wrong connector, who knows what else might be off.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I hope the sensor itself is the same. It specifies " interchangeable part number 16175" which is the Bosch number.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I have right now one more question. I made already about 300 miles in multiple highway trips since erasing record and CAT monitor is still incomplete. Can the fact that I bypassed AC compressor can have any effect on testing process? On my common sense it shouldn't , but I was wrong many times recently. Thanks
 

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Um... I doubt it, but maybe. Some cars do require specific behavior from the AC in order to complete. Most Hondas, for example, require it to be OFF. Jaguar requires it be on some of the time. I would at least ensure that you have ACC set to OFF or ECON to ensure the ECM isn't trying to get feedback on a system that doesn't exist.

I have never found specific requirements for T7 cars. In my experience, the ideal way to get monitors to set is ensure the tank is between 35-85% full (not full, not empty), the temperature is above 30C, and you do about four drives, with at least one them 6-8 hours after the previous, and at least one of them at least five minutes but less than 20 minutes after the last. You should incorporate hard acceleration to the speed limit, some coasting, some constant throttle, and at multiple, mild accelerations from 0-25 and from 35-55. Monitors should set within 40-50 miles.

T5 - especially '96-'98 cars - had some real problems setting monitors. Newer cars should set very quickly unless a component is not doing what it should. On a Jag XJR, I couldn't get it to set because the TPS was bad... all it took was one sensor sending erroneous data and the monitor could never complete. Once the TPS was fixed, the monitor set within 5 miles. My T5-swapped c900 wouldn't set evap because the coolant temp sensor was reading cold... once that was fixed, the monitor set on the way to work.

I'm not saying it's the magic bullet, but live data could give you a clue. It's always gotten me through. Between MAF, fuel trims, and O2 sensor readings you should at least have an idea of what the issue is. It's certainly frustrating as **** trying to figure it out, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
So far I always tried to keep steady speed around 70m/h (speed limit 55) with 4th gear which was giving me about 3500 rpm.
I have never used live data Do you need special OBD scanner for that?
 

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Not "special" per se, but one that can display live data. Not all can. Torque can display some live data, but not all live data. Unfortunately I do not have a recommendation for one - I use Tech 2 for this, so I've never looked into another approach. Maybe some one knows of a specific tool or app that can display the key things you need - MAF, STFT, LTFT, B1S1, B1S2, and probably IAT and ECT wouldn't hurt.
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
Today during one more trip on the highway check engine illuminated. I stopped scanned and as expected got all monitors ready and PO420. I had it before after my turbo collapsed. Since that I used some cat cleaner, replaced oxygen sensors and now all is clear. Some of you who helped me in diagnosing and installing new turbo predicted that.
The local Meineke shop gave me estimate for close to $1100. But I believe that can buy Bosal or similar product
and install it myself. The only issue is that I can not weld and would do that either with clamp or some standard connector.
Is that logical plan? It seems to me that this would be much simpler job that replacing turbo, which I have done.Please advise
By the way car runs perfectly, no smoke, no problem with idle , acceleration and good mileage. The only problem is emission test.
 

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Yep, that's more or less what I expected. Monitors that don't set quickly are the result of something not working properly. Sucks it's your cat, but based on the turbo failure I think we all figured this was inevitable.

As long as you're not in California or New York, you can buy a direct-fit part and not need any welding... just bolt it on:


If you're in California or New York, you'll need to shop local exhaust shops.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Thanks,
I should listen you last year, but I was stupidly choosing easy options.
Most likely I will still have plenty questions during installation. Right now the only issue is how to fix the other end, downstream, of this pipe. The easier would be to use clamps and/or connector. But I am not sure if this is correct way to do it.
 

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The stock pipe just uses a clamp, as does the replacement. Crawl under there and you'll see it. Or, you can see it in this photo:



Unbolt the clamp, unbolt the downpipe, swap the new one on. That's it.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
In my car this section was rusted and replaced. Right now all is welded. But I guess I still will be able to use clamp?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
As I wrote my exhaust was repaired at that junction already and welded. So on the back section there is no flange that means can not use V-clamp. Can I just use adapter which will slide on both ends and use two regular clamps?
 

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Ah, then maybe no. POSSIBLY you could cut off the joint from the replacement pipe and use a pipe expander to create a slip-fit joint. It would take some careful measuring and some luck. You'd need to cut the old cat out, too, obviously. A sawzall or cutoff wheel would do that.

If you can at least cut the old part out, and you can mount the new part up, then you could always drive it to a muffler shop to weld the two pieces together. Most places around here would charge $50 or so for that simple weld. It would be pretty loud on that drive, but if you drive slowly and avoid heavy throttle it's not THAT bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I just finished that job, and welding was exactly $50 as you said. Now should I erase the old P0420 and than wait for the monitors to be completed, or just wait and see if the error and check engine will go away on its own?
 
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