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I highly recommend you change the whole box out for a new one. I just removed the oil-stick tube , support for the intake and some cables and wiggled it out on the right side of the hood. The plastic is so fragile that it cracks once you pull on it.
Thanks Vandvik. Mine is a 2004 left hand drive 155K miles. Is yours same configuration? Reading on this thread it seems a lot people are having a real hard time getting it out, don’t know if it’s because of left hand/right hand drive. Did you remove the alternator?
 

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Thanks Vandvik. Mine is a 2004 left hand drive 155K miles. Is yours same configuration? Reading on this thread it seems a lot people are having a real hard time getting it out, don’t know if it’s because of left hand/right hand drive. Did you remove the alternator?
Yes mine is also left hand drive,2005 automatic. Did not remove the alternator. There is room behind/under the intake on right side to precisely wiggle it out
 

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Ok great thanks. I'll give it a shot!
Hey all, Hey Vandvik - So just an update. I did replace my oil trap finally!!! I broke it as i tried to pry it out or perhaps it was already cracked and that is why it was leaking OR I hadn't pushed it in properly far enough(when I had replaced my head) gasket and it was leaking as a result....don't know for sure. But big thanks to Vandvik - yes you can take it out from the top confirmed, you have to play around with it like expert movers who have to get that hard to move furniture up the stairwell, when you finally thought it's not going work, try another angle and voila!! So spin it around, wiggle it around and it will come out. Take a picture of its exit so you will know how to enter the new one in from the top. And try and remember the wiggling and spinning you did beforehand haha!!
SO the thing is my oil leak is still not fixed..... ARRGHHHHHH!!!!!
I believe it's still leaking from the trap insert that goes into the block. I did have a hard time pushing it in. I even used a crow bar with some padding at the tip to use as leverage to push it in. Anyone has any other thoughts on this. Remove and Try again or could it be something else around that area?? Any good way to push the trap in? I see oil drops coming from that insert so I'm pretty sure that is the cause. But since I had done the head gasket, could it be another place where the oil leak could be coming from?? HEEELLLPPPPPPP!!!!
 

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Just grasping at the proverbial straw here (I haven't swapped an oil trap in ten years and I know for sure I did it in and out through the bottom) but is there a chance you have multiple/stacked up o-rings in the offending area?
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Just grasping at the proverbial straw here (I haven't swapped an oil trap in ten years and I know for sure I did it in and out through the bottom) but is there a chance you have multiple/stacked up o-rings in the offending area?
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Yeah I cleaned out the hole well before inserting trap so that's not it, and the old O ring came out with the old trap.
But it is possible the new O ring got slightly out of place in the pushing process or I just haven't inserted it in fully.
Shouldn't the bolts also push it in as you tighten them to ensure good fit? Not the easiest place to work in there.
 

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Shouldn't the bolts also push it in as you tighten them to ensure good fit?
My recollection is the bolts are directed sideways towards the block not down towards the oil pan, the trap needs to be down before it goes properly sideways...like I said I haven't done one for a long time.
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I believe it's still leaking from the trap insert that goes into the block. I did have a hard time pushing it in. I even used a crow bar with some padding at the tip to use as leverage to push it in. Anyone has any other thoughts on this. Remove and Try again or could it be something else around that area?? Any good way to push the trap in? I see oil drops coming from that insert so I'm pretty sure that is the cause. But since I had done the head gasket, could it be another place where the oil leak could be coming from??

Yeah I cleaned out the hole well before inserting trap so that's not it, and the old O ring came out with the old trap.
But it is possible the new O ring got slightly out of place in the pushing process or I just haven't inserted it in fully.
Shouldn't the bolts also push it in as you tighten them to ensure good fit? Not the easiest place to work in there.
i replaced my oil trap a few months ago (2004 auto trans, RHD , had to access it from below and remove the lower engine mount to extract it from the battery side of the engine compartment).
- to insert or extract the oil trap from it engine block "insert" (the breather connection into the block) should not require much force. use some sustained pull (or push ) action as you wriggle it sideways with some small rotation movement as you extract it (or insert).
i assume you removed the oil dipstick tube, and the bracket to the manifold to make access to the oil trap easier. you should not need to remove the starter, but might need to disconnect the 2 leads to the alternator to make access easier.
- i also assume you are working from below the car (securely jacked up and braced with jack stands etc)
  • clean the engine block connection insert with a rag to remove old oil residue, after you checked there was no old oil ring or debris obstructing the insertion "hole")
  • use a decent dollop of vaseline on the oil trap O ring and insertion part to make it easier to insert into the engine block (again with light sustained pressure on the oil trap, wriggle it in with rotation movements, it should gradually go in without having to use excessive force). if you didnt use a lubricant for this, the O ring could distorts and displace unevenly and prevent correct fitting, from your description this is most likely your current problem (assuming the initial issue was from a cracked oil trap)
  • the oil trap on 2004/2005 models is slightly different then for the 2006-2009 models, but for the engine block insertion connection part this should not matter afaik. (the CCV hose connection to the cobra pipe has a different shape, and requires a different hose/pipe)
  • once the oil trap is correctly inserted into the engine (evenly inserted and correctly alligned), the boults that secure it to the engine block are easy to hand thread in, and lightly tighten with a 1/4 inch ratchet for ex. it is a confined area to work in, but adequate space for normal tools if you work from below (and be sure the car is jacked up high enough and safely secured).
be aware an oil leak from the back of the engine (near the firewall where the oil trap is) can be also be caused by the oil pressure sensor that is plugged into the engine block (near the starter motor). if you cleaned the back of the engine with a rag or degreaser, it should be easier to differentiate where the oil leak is from.
 

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Thanks @Bob2000, @silver2u - So I removed it again and saw that it was cracked where the insert piece joins the main body of the trap. That's where it had broken off last time as well. I'm not sure if I used excessive pressure or is it just bad manufacturing or both!! It's a Proparts oil trap - apparently it is OEM for Saab now, so even if you buy one in a Saab box you'd get a Proparts one. Yeah I removed the alternator wires, intake manifold bracing, dipstick, but did not have to drop the exhaust, as the trap can come out from the top. So I am conflicted, I used an ultra black silicone sealant on the crack and going to let it cure for a day or so and insert it again. I am not sure if it will work, otherwise do it one more time. The plus is each time you have to do it, you break your previous time record ha!!!
 
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